How Big a deal to Add Brakes to a Trailer??

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tmhxt6

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Looking at a 1999 2300 DVCC with a dual axle trailer with NO brakes. Figure it must be illegal in most states now to have that much weight and no brakes. Assume I would have to add brakes to at least one axle. Discs or drums?? Hydraulic or electric?? How much do you think it would cost?? Need to factor it in to my offer price.
 
A boat that heavy with no brakes would be illegal in many states. :shock:

Personal opinion... Kodiak disc brakes on both axles.
Hydraulic surge brakes are fine, just make sure that you get all stainless components.

Good luck!
 
There are many variations of brake sytems that can be added, and you will get differing opinions. I have a trailer for my 2520 that has factory installed, surge brakes on the front axle only :( . RI doesn't require it have brakes on both axles :shock: :? . Make sure you check with your DOT/DMV to determine whether or not you will have to have brakes on one or all axles. The following site will help on the parts prices:
http://shop.easternmarine.com The Trailer Parts Superstore should be able to help.
 
If I was installing from scratch, I'd use electric over hydraulic actuator and Kodiak Cadmium Disk brakes on all 4 wheels. Unless you have a lot of money, the Cadmium is plenty sufficient. I replaced my old OEM drums with Kodiak Cadmium and I'm very happy. After two full years, there is absolutely no rust anywhere on the hub/disk except where the pads have rubbed the cadmium surface. When I tow, the first thing I do is jam on the brakes to test them, and I've discovered that the rust is rubbed off with one stop.

"Perfect is the enemy of good enough" unk

Dave

aka
 
Not a popular opinion by any means, but after close to 60,000 trailer miles, my choice is totally electric.

My take on trailer brakes

They're the cheapest installation by far...no moving parts in the coupler and no hydraulic lines or stubborn bleeder screws.

They do need yearly adjustments and you'll need a controller in the vehicle as well as a breakaway battery on the trailer.
 
jeffnick":1khwy9ew said:
Not a popular opinion by any means, but after close to 60,000 trailer miles, my choice is totally electric.

My take on trailer brakes

They're the cheapest installation by far...no moving parts in the coupler and no hydraulic lines or stubborn bleeder screws.

They do need yearly adjustments and you'll need a controller in the vehicle as well as a breakaway battery on the trailer.

Agreed. We used to use surge brakes, but the EoH (electric over Hydraulic) is far far superior. Kodiak makes the ones on both of our big trailers, and one is 2 years old, with over 25K miles on it. It finally needs bearings and pads, a whopping $200 for all 4 sets from the website mentioned earlier.
 
Now it sounds to me that "jeffnick" actually said "totally electric" and not "electric over surge". Is that correct? Jeffnick could you please explain? I will be looking at new brakes in a year or so and only trailer 2 mi. each way to the ramp a couple dozen times in a good season, so I don't need much.

As far as stopping power, my F250 could do it all on it's own around town and the locals as well as State Police wouldn't even notice or care in this town if you had brakes or if they actually worked. You're pretty much left to your own devices as long as you don't go to extremes, it's kind of the lobstahman code.

Slainte, Doug
 
Insurance companies can turn their back on an insured who doesn't do what is required to hold safe the vehicles/vessels they are insuring. Something about "not acting in good faith"
 
dougmacf":1c1ov2k9 said:
Jeffnick could you please explain?
Slainte, Doug

Yes, I am a proponent of totally electric brakes...nothing hydraulic at all in the trailer braking system.
 
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