I have several project questions.

[rangerdog]

1. I have the blue fuel filter. Do I also need a fuel/water seperator? (the one with a clear glass thing on the bottom) If so, does it go before the blue filter?

2. If I were to remove the splash guard, (see picture below) do I just fill the holes with 5200? What are the pros/cons of doing this? Does the fact that I am wet slipped have any effect on this?

3. Would there be a problem in putting a hatch for battery, filter, bilge access, etc, in the bulkhead in the picture? (In front of my dad's knees) I would do one on each side.

 

[rangerdog]

Bump

 

[Megabyte]

1. I have the blue fuel filter. Do I also need a fuel/water seperator? (the one with a clear glass thing on the bottom) If so, does it go before the blue filter?

2. If I were to remove the splash guard, (see picture below) do I just fill the holes with 5200? What are the pros/cons of doing this? Does the fact that I am wet slipped have any effect on this?

3. Would there be a problem in putting a hatch for battery, filter, bilge access, etc, in the bulkhead in the picture? (In front of my dad's knees) I would do one on each side.

1.) If you have the Yamaha baby blue filter, you already have a fuel/water separator. The Yamaha filter must be removed to drain it, while the clear base on the Racor does not need to be removed, and can be drained in place.
Both filters use the same base and are interchangeable.

2.) If your plan is to remove the splash guard permanently, you could use 4200 or 5200, but I think if it were mine, I'd consider marine silicone as a less permanent solution.
If you wanted to re-install that guard at a later date, it'd be much easier getting through the silicone. :shock:

3.) That question is probably better answered by someone who owns that model, but I cannot imagine why you couldn't put a hatch in that area.
Do you have any idea what is behind that bulkhead?

 

[rangerdog]

Yes , Kevin, it is just an open area. On the port are the batteries and on the starboard it is just an open space.

 

[Megabyte]

Shouldn't be a problem then.

I have a project waiting for me this summer that involves a hatch too.
I want to replace the fabric cover on my rear steering station with a solid hatch.

I want to square this up...

... and replace the soft cover with a solid hatch like this one.

I would think that your project and mine are similar. :wink:

 

[rangerdog]

I have that exact hatch (your bottom picture) on my cockpit steering station for access to the cables, etc. I think my new aft hatches will be not a structural problem that piece is only a part of the "liner".

 

[gw204]

Rangerdog,

If you remove the splashguard, I would fill the holes with thickened epoxy. First drill them out a bit to clean up any old caulk, then slightly counter sink the exposed edge. Paint the area with unthickened epoxy and then fill the holes with epoxy thickened with cabosil. Once cured, grind down slightly and then gelcoat for a permanent fix. If you want to first test the waters to see if you like it, you can caulk the holes, but I would recommend you let that be your permanent solution. A wood cored deck isn't something to take chances with.

Kev and Rangerdog,

When you move on your hatch projects, keep in mind that radiused corners are stronger than straight 90 degree cuts. The bigger the radius, the more strength it has.

 

[Parker23]

I have the same boat ,why would you remove the splashwell? I think that would make the boat capable of getting swamped very easy. With that well gone you are 4 inches from a flooded cockpit.

 

[rangerdog]

I have the same boat ,why would you remove the splashwell? I think that would make the boat capable of getting swamped very easy. With that well gone you are 4 inches from a flooded cockpit.

Well that is a very good point and one which I have debated back and forth in my head. I think that I could put a new splashwell wall straight across the inside of the transom with a cut for the motor when in the up position.

 

[Parker23]

Okay, good i thought you were going to seal up holes and that was it, scared me a little. If you stay lower then splashwell you got i bet you can go straight across and flush to that wall you want to add the hatches on bet you can go about 1 ft or a little more higher. Good luck and of course lets see photos.

 

[Ranger Tim]

I removed my splashwell guard and never looked back. It is a joy to not have to trip over it constantly. A wave that would swamp the boat would not be seriously deterred by that guard. Its real purpose is to prevent water from being a nuisance in the cockpit. It also will prevent small items from rolling out the notch. I also used the guard as a bulkhead to brace my cooler against. I hated it because of the tripping hazard and for the difficulty it presented when trying to wash out the cockpit.

All boaters must be vigilant to prevent being in danger from taking water over the stern. Those of us who have notched transoms must be more careful to have appropriate ground tackle, sea anchors and procedures in place for emergency loss of power in sloppy seas. A full transom is not a blank check to ignore safe operation of a powerboat in heavy weather either, especially stern-to seas.

I apologize if I sound a bit preachy, I just get irritated with the constant barrage of negativity on "other" sites when the notch transoms get bashed. I don't mean to imply that is taking place here on this site and I appreciate the concerns expressed by those who recommend the guards.

I filled my holes with 4X00 caulk and check them every washdown for peeling or cracks. I will probably fill with epoxy this spring. Not having a guard makes my deck feel HUGE!

 

[bigeye2k]

Just put the same screws back in minus the splash gaurd. I pulled my splash guard after the first trip. I replaced it with a 162 qt cooler.

 

[Outta Here]

I apologize if I sound a bit preachy, I just get irritated with the constant barrage of negativity on "other" sites when the notch transoms get bashed.

Amen Rev Tim!

I've had a 18' and 23SE with full livewell, ice and 4 people aboard up to 30 miles or so offshore, slow trolling. Never have I had any water wash over stern.

I cannot imagine how one would get a Parker to swamp (from stern wash) unless it was anchored from stern which is a really stupid idea anyway.

I have a closed transom now. Should I ever take a wave over bow, or beam, I have no idea how the water would ever run out. Lets' see, hmmmm...1 wave draining thru four 1" holes...3 days maybe?