Leaking fuel tank
- Thread starter Neckbone
- Start date
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gw204
Well-known member
Here's what I would do....
1. Bevel the edges where you cut through the deck at 45 degrees. Lay one or two layers of 3/4 oz mat over that surface to seal the deck core that's already there.
2. Take some additional strips of marine ply and glass some of those "cleats" to the under side of the deck at the edges of the cut as shown above.
3. Cut more strips of marine ply long enough so they span the entire length of the exposed stringer. Bevel one edge at 45 degrees.
4. Glass those strips to the sides of the stringers with the bevel facing down. Then glass all the way around then to seal the exposed wood. This will give you addl. width on the tops of the stringers for deck support and will help avoid hard spots.
5. Bevel the edges of the new deck section at 45 degrees so they line up with the existing deck and lay flush.
6. Glass the underside of the deck and the beveled edges with a layer of 3/4 oz mat and a layer of 6 oz. cloth.
7. Bond the new deck section to the tops of the stringers with either a mix of epoxy & cabosil, or 5200. Bond the beveled seams with a layer of 3/4 oz mat. Weight the deck down while it all cures.
8. Glass over the topsides of the deck with a few layers of 1708 or 1808.
9. Gelcoat or paint.
The bevel edges you cut in the new and old sections of deck will aid in support and increase the surface area for bonding.
Make sure you grind or sand all cured surfaces before adding new glass.
Damn I need a project boat.....
1. Bevel the edges where you cut through the deck at 45 degrees. Lay one or two layers of 3/4 oz mat over that surface to seal the deck core that's already there.
2. Take some additional strips of marine ply and glass some of those "cleats" to the under side of the deck at the edges of the cut as shown above.
3. Cut more strips of marine ply long enough so they span the entire length of the exposed stringer. Bevel one edge at 45 degrees.
4. Glass those strips to the sides of the stringers with the bevel facing down. Then glass all the way around then to seal the exposed wood. This will give you addl. width on the tops of the stringers for deck support and will help avoid hard spots.
5. Bevel the edges of the new deck section at 45 degrees so they line up with the existing deck and lay flush.
6. Glass the underside of the deck and the beveled edges with a layer of 3/4 oz mat and a layer of 6 oz. cloth.
7. Bond the new deck section to the tops of the stringers with either a mix of epoxy & cabosil, or 5200. Bond the beveled seams with a layer of 3/4 oz mat. Weight the deck down while it all cures.
8. Glass over the topsides of the deck with a few layers of 1708 or 1808.
9. Gelcoat or paint.
The bevel edges you cut in the new and old sections of deck will aid in support and increase the surface area for bonding.
Make sure you grind or sand all cured surfaces before adding new glass.
Damn I need a project boat.....
Neckbone
Well-known member
That doesn't seem too hard. Once I get the fiberglass/epoxy thing figured out that is. Thanks, GW204.
Now, another question. Sometime in the future, I may consider a t-top. How should I go about preparing for that in the future? I was thinking, instead of 3/4" ply for the deck piece, go w/ two 3/8" and a 1/4" piece of aluminum stock sandwiched in between where the top would secure. (I'm just thinking out loud about the thickness. I think 1" is probably overkill, but I'll figure that out after I do some cutting) Since I'm down there, I want to make sure if I decide to add the top, I can hang a t-top spider off of it if I want to.
Now, another question. Sometime in the future, I may consider a t-top. How should I go about preparing for that in the future? I was thinking, instead of 3/4" ply for the deck piece, go w/ two 3/8" and a 1/4" piece of aluminum stock sandwiched in between where the top would secure. (I'm just thinking out loud about the thickness. I think 1" is probably overkill, but I'll figure that out after I do some cutting) Since I'm down there, I want to make sure if I decide to add the top, I can hang a t-top spider off of it if I want to.
gw204
Well-known member
That's overkill. Stick with the 3/4" marine ply and just add some deckplates or hatches so you can get under the floor to through bolt it.
Then again, the T-Top on my old boat was just screwed to the floor and through-bolted to the console and I never had any problems.
Then again, the T-Top on my old boat was just screwed to the floor and through-bolted to the console and I never had any problems.
Neckbone
Well-known member
Talked to Farron Peffer at Parker today. He was a ton of help, except, they don't have any drawings from boats as old as mine. A couple of recommendations I'll pass along. One, he said if the deck is still strong, reuse the cut out piece for the deck. Just grind the sides like GW204 said and reglass. His recommendation for attaching the stringers to the deck was to lay wet fiberglass on top of the stringers when I lay the deck down. Put some weight on it, and let it dry. He also advised to foam in the tank. He also did advise on 3/8" aluminum stock where I plan for the ttop. Since I was down there might as well plan for future additions.
