lenco home made upgrade

[Robert Cibran]

Hi Guys,

Has anyone out there done the following home made upgrade to your lencos or bennetts.

lets say you have 12x12 edge mount tabs and you want to go to either 12x18 or 12x24,can you take a piece of S.S. plate 12/14 thich guage and bolt it to the bottom of that existing 12x12 blade ?? you can also maybe offset it as desired,is this o.k. or is this too crazy ??

robert cibran
[email protected]

 

[DaleH]

I thought most were just replacing a 12x18 in place of the 12x12, leaving the actuator in place.

 

[Robert Cibran]

DaleH

Yes you are correct,everyone replaces the 12x12 blades with the 12x18's and leaves everything in place,only that 12x18 get closer to chime and when boat on plane,some small part of tab is out of water,however yesterday I was reading here (2006 threads) of some of our friends doing different set ups for the 12x18,some offset the actuator 3 inches as not to get close to the chime so that the 6 inch additional tab is toward motor,others just got closer to chime (1" to 1.5" inches),now after reading all the different suggestions and going home to ponder my way of also doing this change,I got to thinking,why cant 12x12 be left in place and take a 12x18 solid S.S. rectangular plate and bolt it to bottom of exsisting tab,then it could be offset without any notion of tab bend.

just my thoughts,could be Hillbilly way of thinking.

robert cibran

 

[DaleH]

It sure would work, some nice SS rivets would be slick too. No problems with 'hill billy thinking', up here in the NorEast we call that Rube Goldberg (as in DIY, thrifty) thinking. And I'm all for that!

 

[Robert Cibran]

DaleH

Thanks for your thoughts on this,but as you know when we Parker owners read any threads that will help our boats handle better,we go out and "BUY" very quickly the solution and sometimes without giving it much thought,I already have the brand new replacement 12x18'S blades to do change over from 12x12,I gues what I will do is,place those 12x18 in same place as exsisting 12x12 and not do the offset on the actuator and go from there.mine is a 2300CC DV so I hope that with the DV the balde will not be out of water (near Chine) when on plane.

Again thanks.

Robert

 

[DaleH]

Robert:

I actually was trying to broker a deal where Bennett Marine would make 'blank kits' of the 12x18 or larger tabs that would go in place of the existing 12x12 Lenco hinge. The Bennett one would extend 6" further in towards the motor. It would have used the SAME drill hole pattern that the Lenco had, so one only needed to drill 3 or 4 more 'new' holes. It also had a stiffener on it whereas the actuator would be offset somewhat.

Alas, I would had to buy production time and although Bennett was willing to do so ... I myself could not afford the cost, as in essence, I would have had to buy 10, 20, or 100 sets myself up front. Couldn't financially afford that ... still have CP beer koozies I'm sitting on ... haha!

But anyway - you can do the same thing. In testing, Bennett actually found out that one could put the bigger tab over the 12x12, but extend it in towards the motor. When without the stiffener rib, yes the end in towards the motor flexes a bit, but it still improved the performance and that is waht this upgrade is all about.

I would be hesitant to have any trim tab extend over the area where the reverse chine is, as this causes BOW STEERING when the tabs are activated. Don't ask me how I know ...

 

[Robert Cibran]

DaleH

What would you do ?? I have the 12x18'S blades already in my hands,do I mount using the exsisting way the 12x12 are done (keep actuator in same place) and this will make the 12x18 be off the chime about 1.5" from the dge (side of boat) edge and towards the motor it will cross over the reverse chime about 1.5" to 2" inches,the lenco instruction say not to get tab edge closer than 2" inches to "STRAKE",but if no choice,then move tab over the "STRAKE",is strake same as reversed chime ???

I'am really confused on what to do since I already bought and have the 12x18'S blades.

Robert

 

[Robert Cibran]

DaleH

Sorry to pester you so much,I was looking at the instalation that Par did on his boat,he took the 12x18's and mounted them exactly where the old 12x12's where,he got closer to Chime (outside edge of boat) and he crossed over the reveresed Chine,I guess his boat is a MOD V.he claims 100% better with no major problems,has anyone talked to him since he did this and is he happy ?? or would he have gone another route

Robert

 

[DaleH]

I will admit that my Bennett 9x24s cross 1" over the reverse chine and if you cycle them one at a time, then yes, they will cause bow steering. That by itself is not dangerous, but one must be aware of it and take it into account.

Actually, when running on plane - if I were to lose my hydraulic steering - I could actually tie the OB into a fixed straight-ahead position, and make my way home. Watch out ... here I come :shock: ! Now, getting back through the mooring area might be a challenge ... but guess what? Now you you've peaked my interest, I'll just have to try it some time !

 

[Robert Cibran]

DaleH

I just got of the phone with the Parker Engineer (Eric) Nice guy,gave me all the time I needed to explain my situation,guess what,he says that this upgrade will for sure bring the bow down on my boat,also by being 1.5" over the reverse Strake this will cause a little turbualnce and restriction which will then bring bow down further when tabs deployed further.

he says Parker are made to ride bow light on purpose,but that what I will be doing will surely solve my problem of light bow.

Thanks for all your support and help.

Robert Cibran
[email protected]

 

[Claymar]

Did the Parker Eng happen to give a reason for the light bow?

Have some SS stock in the garage I was thinking of adding to the Lencos, just curious about Parkers thinking before I start cutting.

 

[Robert Cibran]

Claymar,

No he did not go into details,but his acknowledgement was good enough for me,if you are going to cut some stainless steel plates so that you can bolt them underneath the current 12x12'S,then you can offset the plate towards the motor just a bit (say 2") so that when you look at your tabs after,the new SS plate will be 4" inches toward motor and 2" towards chime.I would then put a welded re-inforcing rib on the 4" side so that it does not bend while under way.

Robert

 

[grouperjim]

Robert:

Sounds like you are the go to guy for trim tab ideas.

I was thinking of trying the 16 x 12 lenco blade. Just 4 inches longer and the same width. During your extensive research, did you find out anything good/bad about adding a longer tab vs. wider?

jim

 

[Fishinfireman]

GrouperJim, here is a link that covers what you are talking about. I tried it and was not happy with the results.

http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB2/vie ... highlight=

I still have the set of 12 X 16 Lenco tabs out in the shop if you are dead set on trying it.

 

[greatcir]

Very helpful thread.

Last week I emailed Tom at Bennett about what he thought I should replace my 12X12 Lencos with to reduce WOT porposing and to get better control. He said to go with 12X18 Lencos and to move the actuator in 3 inches.

I talked to Ray at Lenco and he thought I might be better off with 18L X 12 W to help my issues and not have to move the actuator. Then he discovered thay no longer make those. I talked to a local welding shop and decided to not persue welding my own design to my current 12 X 12's - mostly because of potential corrison issues at weld joints.

I went back to Tom and he stuck to his guns about 12 X 18 and moving the actuator in 3 inches. I agree with his logic on the wider tabs.

I have now emailed Tom to see if I can get 12L X 18 W Bennetts to go on to my Lenco actuator. I asked him if they could sell me a set of the 12X18 Bennets without the holes drilled for the actuator. Then I could keep my Lenco actuators, lighted control switch, etc. and get the magic of the Bennett trim tabs???

I am reluctant to move the actuators unless absolutely necessary so will see what Tom says maybe on Tuesday after the holiday.

Bobbin along<,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Pete

 

[grouperjim]

Thanks Capt Bill and Pete:

That was exactly the info I needed.

I saw a thread where Joshdad put a pair 12 x 24 Bennet blades on his 2320. He moved the existing Lenco actuator inboard and centered on the tab. I am going to give him a jingle to see how the tab and single actuator are holding up. I am worried that a tab that wide may get bent on the edges in rough seas, or that a single actuator may not hold up pushing down on that much water.

Also, having never worked a Lenco trim tab, if you pull/move the actuator, do you simply splice the wires back together? If so, could I keep the existing actuator in place and add an additional actuator on the same tab further inboard and splice both actuators together?

Thanks,
jim

 

[greatcir]

Jim,

Lenco told me there are only two wires in the bundle to each actuator so if I have to move them I will cut the wires somewhere convenient in the boat and splice it back after relocatiing the actuator.

Lenco also says you can run the wire up the transom some if necessary to miss a bulkhead or an inaccessable place and then go through the transom and cover it with a clanmshell (like a depth sounder wire).

Finally they said the current Lenco actuators I have will easily power the 12X18s so must be lots of reserve power in them.

I printed out the installation instructions for the Lencos and the Bennetts from each site just to learn more.

Still seems to me the Bennettes tabs should be indifferent to what actuator is pushing them - Lenco or Bennett - so my preference (till I hear from Tom) is to simply replace my 12 X 12 Lenco plates with 12X18 Bennett plates (plus pieces necessary for the hinging) and let the Lenco equipment run the tabs.

Tomorrow I may be out and if so I'll try to see how hard it is to press a flat piece down at the edge of the transom. Maybe less force than I envision? If I were ambitious, I'd make a 6 inch wide X 12 inch long piece of plywood on a hinge to press down (maybe using a broomstick) next to my current tab to see what would happen. Be fun to try it on both sides before doing all the work.

Maybe I'm missing something, but so far that's where I am

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Pete

 

[cbigma]

I mounted my 12X18 Boat Levellers keeping the original OEM actuator positioning. The 3 inch increased outboard edge came to rest exactly at the reverse chine point.

I have not had any issues with spray or bow steering, or any other negative performance. The extra surface area gets the bow down faster, but at speed I have to be careful with deployment (vs. the old 12X12 tabs) because the effect is so much faster and dramatic than before. I guess it's all what you are used to... 8)

If I had to do it all over again, I would.

I got the effect I wanted and also replaced aging components (2000 OEM). I can't imagine that I would ever need or use more than 432 sq in of tab, but I have a Mod-V with 14 degree deadrise and maybe other Parker hulls need more tab surface area. There are lots of CP'ers out here with bigger tabs that swear by 'em.

 

[greatcir]

Well, I cut a 6 in. X 12 in. piece of wood and nailed it to a 2X2 just for fun today as I am thinking about changing my 12X12 tabs to 12X18s.

As a friend operated my boat, I finally watched my Cobra plate in action (unfortunately mostly submerged), my 12X12 Lencos, my RayMarine transducer and my R&D wood rig.

Looks like I need to raise my engine or get my bow down more. Engine is in the center hole now for my F150 4s.

When I tried my Rube Goldburg wooden plate, I had trouble holding it next to my trim tabs because of the force of the side spray. It was fairly easy to hold it down right over my transducer of even a bit away from the transom. So the actuators I have should have no problem with bigger trim plates.

All the running shots where at 30+ MPH.

Don't laugh too had at my rig or my photo using it - just was a bit complicated to hold it and shoot the camera.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Pete

 

[grouperjim]

Pete, you are the man. That took some effort. If I had tried that, the wood would have probably ended up going through the prop.

I got a jingle from Joshdad (Gary) who used his original single Lenco actuators on (real) 12 X 24w trim tabs. He says they are still working flawlessly and otherwise have no problem pushing down on that water. I ordered some 12 x 24s and will proceed on that course.

If you search under "trim tab" you will find pics of Joshdad's install along with an excellent play by play description.

jim