Low Battery Alert on VHF and readings from batteries

[tomc585]

If i wanted? thats a no brainer

 

[Brent]

Good time to clean electrical items - both ends of battery cables, clean battery terminals and tighten battery cable bolts on engine side. Use DVM to testing voltage on batteries then start motor and see if voltage increases at batteries. Go to switch panels - clean and tighten. Reset all breakers. Check voltage to radio and cig lighter outlet,check all lights are operable, consider replacing bulbs with LED ones. Check wiring on fuel sender. Check all accessible wire terminals, splices, rings, spades. Check voltage to MFD. Buy a decent DVM, too. If a Perko AB switch is installed, remove cover, spray with cleaner and protective , excessive the switch positions or install a BEP cluster.
Check anchor light is working or replace withwater proof LED unit. Check cockpit lights - upgrade to LED. Charge all batteries, ,let rest then load test. If old or been abused , buy new better spec batteries.

 

[warthog5]

Can someone please explain the BEP cluster? Please forgive my ignorance. I’ve always used a switch for ‘off, 1, 2 or both’.

Always open to upgrading and improving.

BEP Cluster Switch.

You start your day by turning the Start switch and the House switch to ON.
At the end of the day you turn them both OFF.

It doesn't get any simpler than that. You don't have to remember to turn from Batt 1 when going out and switch to Batt 2 on the way back in. Just something else that you have to remember.

OK so what goes on with it is done all automatically thru the VSR [Voltage Sensitive Relay]

The Relay is in a closed position. As soon as you hit the key to crank the motor the relay opens, due to sensing a large surge of current.

Ok the motor is cranked and running now. The relay is still open. The Alt is charging the Start battery until it reaches a set voltage and charge.

Then the relay closes and is back charging Both the Start & House Battery.

Now another feature that happened when you hit the key is your electronics were ON and wired from the House battery. This will stop any spiking of the Electronics. They don't like to be spiked!

OK...Now your out sitting on the beach. The motor is OFF, but you have the Radio playing for hours. The Relay senses the drop and opens the relay again. The radio is still playing, but the relay just disconnected the Start battery out of the circuit so that it stays at Full charge to start the motor.

When you get ready to leave the beach and crank the motor the alt will charge the Start battery first and when it's back up, the relay will close and charge the House battery.

There is one more switch on the Cluster. It is the Combine switch. Think of that as Jumper Cables without having to dig them out and hook them up. This switch would normally be in the OFF position, until you need a boost on the start battery. Then turn it to ON. After the motor is running turn it back OFF.

Everything is all Automatic. No thinking about it. Your batteries will have a much better charge in them.

 

[dcunniff]

If you have the money best to have batteries the same age otherwise that older battery will stop the new one from charging well. Sorry about that.

 

[Island Dreamer]

just make sure your alternator has the proper output off idle, otherwise the new batteries will let you down again.

I'm questioning the accuracy of the gauges now and will use the multimeter while bringing the revs up to 3200 rpm. Should I get 14 volts at cruise speeds?

 

[Island Dreamer]

BEP Cluster Switch.

You start your day by turning the Start switch and the House switch to ON.
At the end of the day you turn them both OFF.

It doesn't get any simpler than that. You don't have to remember to turn from Batt 1 when going out and switch to Batt 2 on the way back in. Just something else that you have to remember.

OK so what goes on with it is done all automatically thru the VSR [Voltage Sensitive Relay]

The Relay is in a closed position. As soon as you hit the key to crank the motor the relay opens, due to sensing a large surge of current.

Ok the motor is cranked and running now. The relay is still open. The Alt is charging the Start battery until it reaches a set voltage and charge.

Then the relay closes and is back charging Both the Start & House Battery.

Now another feature that happened when you hit the key is your electronics were ON and wired from the House battery. This will stop any spiking of the Electronics. They don't like to be spiked!

OK...Now your out sitting on the beach. The motor is OFF, but you have the Radio playing for hours. The Relay senses the drop and opens the relay again. The radio is still playing, but the relay just disconnected the Start battery out of the circuit so that it stays at Full charge to start the motor.

When you get ready to leave the beach and crank the motor the alt will charge the Start battery first and when it's back up, the relay will close and charge the House battery.

There is one more switch on the Cluster. It is the Combine switch. Think of that as Jumper Cables without having to dig them out and hook them up. This switch would normally be in the OFF position, until you need a boost on the start battery. Then turn it to ON. After the motor is running turn it back OFF.

Everything is all Automatic. No thinking about it. Your batteries will have a much better charge in them.

Just read about this and it is now on the list of things to do! At first glance, without your explanation, I though it was just an overpriced battery switch! Had know idea that it had automatic features like that!

 

[warthog5]

And it beats the Blue Seas Add-A-Battery. Why? Because first it's much cleaner. Blue Seas you have to run cable and BEP does it with a Buss Bar inside. That makes a bidder footprint for Blue Seas.
BEP you actually have better control....Blue Seas it's either OFF or ON.

I've installed 1 - Blue Seas Add-A-Battery..........I just finished my 50th BEP install.

 

[warthog5]

I'm questioning the accuracy of the gauges now and will use the multimeter while bringing the revs up to 3200 rpm. Should I get 14 volts at cruise speeds?

You should get 13.8V to 14.2V @ 2000RPM.

My Suzuki's would read 14.2 at cruise all the time. Electronics might read a little less.

Your wiring can have corrosion, not so good of connections and just plain voltage drop across the load.

 

[Island Dreamer]

You should get 13.8V to 14.2V @ 2000RPM.

My Suzuki's would read 14.2 at cruise all the time. Electronics might read a little less.

Your wiring can have corrosion, not so good of connections and just plain voltage drop across the load.

Im just starting to understand a little but about Ohms. Is there a way to check resistance in the long wire running from engine bay to volt gauge? Or is it more of just a visual check at the exposed ends? Are the newer digital games more accurate than a 25 year old analog gauge? Gauge shown here at idle. with new batteries. Im heading to the boat now and will do a visual of the wires coming out of alternator and the back of the gauge.

 

[tomc585]

with a decent digital volt meter Check the voltage at the alternator and then at the gauge (be sure to have a good clean ground). It should be the same for that length of wire. Keep in mind that gauge is just for reference so dont expect an exact reading unless you calibrate it.