Is anybody using a flushing bag for a large outboard?
If so how do you like it and who is the Manufacturer?
If so how do you like it and who is the Manufacturer?
Pretty ingenious- These Flush bags are hard to find. There is one out of CA - but I believe the company is out of business. I think I will have to put something together myself. Thinking of pond liner and PVC Tube Frame. When I get it done if it works I will send you a pic.Made my own, for a 200 Yamaha, using shower liner. 4 inch zipper at the bottom for a drain. Pop the cowling, and use three or four short
bungees to hold it up. Neighbors probably like it, because it’s a whole lot quieter than running on the hose.
I use a flush bag
Available from Amazon: https://amzn.to/3v1wDjz
It's better then using the muffs, which if you don't have enough pressure and volume, the water pump impeller will get destroyed. Any large bucket or container will work, as long as the water level is above the pump.
Because you didn't have the water level above the anti-ventilation plate.I smoked a water pump one spring trying a barrel. I thought I had the water high enough. Big waste of water. Tried the muffs but couldn’t get a reliable pee up top. I have been using the flush port with no issues spring and fall at the house while running, no need to rev.
150 Yamaha.
Manual says not to but a Yamaha dealer does it and recommended. I do my own work and would not try to risk screwing my stuff up. A solid stream out the pee hole assures the cylinder head is full.
my two cents, give a try
I agree. I just serviced the water pump on a 2006 F115, (not on a Parker), and ran the engine to make sure the new pump is happy. I remove the prop, 1 1/16" wrench, and then fill the tub and run the engine as needed. I can also run it in gear and higher revs to open the thermostats since the prop is off. At the end of the season I do this and flow 'salt-off' in the flushing port as well which recirculates in the tub. Thanks!Here’s my flushing tub. I got the poly barrel free from Craig’s List. Cut a rectangular hole with a circular saw. Screwed on 2 scrap 4x4 posts for legs and drilled a couple of holes—one for a quick-connect fitting for the hose and one for a drain plug. Total cost for me $0.
This is the best way to flush the engine because the exhaust water is heated by the engine and is re-circulated back thru the cooling passages. The water is hot enough to open the T-stats but is not hot enough to trigger the alarm. I usually run it for 30 minutes since it is quiet enough to not bother the neighbors. This is far superior than flushing with ear muffs.
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