Parker 17 / 18 CC wheel house

[SamR]

On the windows, why not just fab your own with polycarbonate and add off the shelf gaskets and hardware? The windows should be flush with the surface of the gelcoat so just cut the shapes that you want out of 3/4” plywood, round the edges on one side, and screw them to the inside of your mold? This builds up some nice structure for rigidity and solves all of your fitment.

 

[warthog5]

My plan is to make a melamine mold just slightly bigger that the finished laminated structure

Not what I would do. Cut the parts from 1/2in Nidacore.... Laminate the inside surface. Tab pieces together. Radius the outside corners. Laminate the outside.
That top is to stubby with the overhang.... Looks like it's wearing a skull cap.... Needs more overhang to look right. Top can get the camber it needs by using skrim Nicacore or another composite board like Divenecell or Kledgcell. Windows.... Windows can be fixed on the sides.... But Not in the front... You want to be able to open and close it to get some airflow... If not.... You will sweat to death. Paint it.... Not Gellcoat.

 

[tomc585]

Interesting read NidaCore vs Plywood
NidaCore vs. Plywood

 

[Longislandfish]

Not what I would do. Cut the parts from 1/2in Nidacore.... Laminate the inside surface. Tab pieces together. Radius the outside corners. Laminate the outside.
That top is to stubby with the overhang.... Looks like it's wearing a skull cap.... Needs more overhang to look right. Top can get the camber it needs by using skrim Nicacore or another composite board like Divenecell or Kledgcell. Windows.... Windows can be fixed on the sides.... But Not in the front... You want to be able to open and close it to get some airflow... If not.... You will sweat to death. Paint it.... Not Gellcoat.

I think the cost of the material will have a huge impact on core material. Initially I figured straight glass would be a good choice, however glass is not cheap and needing 8 layers to get appropriate layup is not worth the hassle.

Nidacore unfinished maybe cost effective if I can locally source it, however wouldn’t I want the laminated nidiacore which looks to be super expensive stuff. The honeycomb stuff seems flexible and have not much rigidity.

I called local glass supplier they have the divinylcell at 1/4 and 1/2 sheet, the 4x8 1/4 was around 110 bucks.

I’m leaning on using ply core prob birch. Hot coated and laminated. Reason being it’s cheap, and strong, and not too worried about water damage as the rest of the hull is cored too.

1/4 ply laminated with 1708 with a 1/2 ply roof and a 1 inch crown.

I am just trying to see what is the best option, spending 2k in glass and resin isn’t worth it, at that point I could have one made for a few thousand more.

 

[Longislandfish]

This is my design and scaled drawing with 15 degree camber and an overall length of 78 inches to the top of the roof.

I think it will fit the proportions of the hull, don’t want a lot of overhang aft, may bump the roof length up but for now the size and front rake is to appealing to my eye on paper anyway

 

[Longislandfish]

This is my design and scaled drawing with 15 degree camber and an overall length of 78 inches to the top of the roof.

I think it will fit the proportions of the hull, don’t want a lot of overhang aft, may bump the roof length up but for now the size and front rake is to appealing to my eye on paper anyway

Adjusted the camber aft and froward 10/25 is where I’m settling, looks proportional for the console and a real wheelhouse design. All my commercial fisherman friends concur. Next up the frame

 

[warthog5]

The honeycomb stuff seems flexible and have not much rigidity.

One must understand how a composite panel works... It's like a I beam.
The lamination on the Nidacore is what makes it rigid. The Honeycomb core has air pockets. The result is a rigid & lightweight panel. You must ALWAYS be mindful of weight. Weight adds up fast and is detrimental to the performance of the boat.

Longislandfish.... That top is not long enough in the aft end to give sun and or foul weather protection. I like the rest of the design. Where the most upright is behind the side window... in that corner put a genouris radius to triangulate into the top.

 

[Longislandfish]

Ok, so the structure is cut the 3 sides minus the roof and radius.

I spoke to a very knowledgeable Fiberglass guy, he showed me all the options and after showing him my sketch he said I would use plywood and 1708 on both side, fair and gelcoat then paint or whateve for the finish. Will be using polyester resin as it’s perfectly fine for laminating and fits the bill.


A couple of questions I’m now hung up on.

I know I must have less than 90 degrees on the outside corners, was going to bug a cheap router and take the screws out, lay parts flat and basically route all the square edges so I can wrap the glass.

I think I can also use a sander as plywood may splinter here with a router not sure.

Should I tape my seams with tape?

Also I want to precoat the wood, but I think letting it cure results in a less superior mechanical and chemical bond. I was told to hot coat, but I believe letting it cure is poor form.

On inside radius I was going to mix in some cabosil and fillet all the inside 90s and lay my glass on top. Should I use csm here or is 1708 going to be okay?

How about the end grain? How do I wrap it around?

I was trying to minimize the overlapping of seams so that I wouldn’t get a lot of high spots in the laminate where you could see a thicker profile of glass etc. what’s the best approach to this ?

Should I wrap the outside first?

I’m good with wood working but have never used resin or glass.

Just want to have a thought process for where to start.

I figured sand and round all corners, clean. Fill with putty, then begin lamination with 1708.

He told me 1708 on both sides of the 1/2 ply would be ample here. Idk if I need mat or tape on the seams. Any help appreciated from you fellas

 

[Longislandfish]

Well here it is, on the boat and reworked in a few areas. Overall I’m liking the look and it’s for sure proportional to the 18ft hull. Had to lower the roof line some since the planned 78 was too tall in my opionion, dropped the overall height to 75” in 5’9” so this is plent good for me. Had to rework the aft console area as the helm was touching the wall so I ended up with this. This one is a mock, the next one will include the crown, longer roofline overhang roughly 20-24inches and 1 inch crown Up top with some radius on the front roof. Let me know what you guys think.

Not easy when you starting from scratch

 

[SamR]

Very helpful posts everyone. Thanks for sharing.

I’ve been planning on building the same for ages but finally have the console stripped down and am moving my wheel closer to the center of the console. With the way that I drive with a fly rod in hand, I would catch my hand between the wheel and inside of the doghouse. I’m also carrying the build back a bit for some more structure and protection.

Have you sat on the front seat with the mockup in place? I had to raise the start of the forward tilt on mine so that people wouldn’t bang their head.

 

[Longislandfish]

Very helpful posts everyone. Thanks for sharing.

I’ve been planning on building the same for ages but finally have the console stripped down and am moving my wheel closer to the center of the console. With the way that I drive with a fly rod in hand, I would catch my hand between the wheel and inside of the doghouse. I’m also carrying the build back a bit for some more structure and protection.

Have you sat on the front seat with the mockup in place? I had to raise the start of the forward tilt on mine so that people wouldn’t bang their head.

I have the same problem, initially I had the rake set at 10 on the rear wall, and it was flush to the end of the console, but my helm to far aft. I would have to move it in like you are doing which I don’t want to do. Yeah the rake on front is perfect I have 8 inches before the 15 degree camber starts, the overall height is now 76.

 

[Longislandfish]

Very helpful posts everyone. Thanks for sharing.

I’ve been planning on building the same for ages but finally have the console stripped down and am moving my wheel closer to the center of the console. With the way that I drive with a fly rod in hand, I would catch my hand between the wheel and inside of the doghouse. I’m also carrying the build back a bit for some more structure and protection.

Have you sat on the front seat with the mockup in place? I had to raise the start of the forward tilt on mine so that people wouldn’t bang their head.

I came to that conclusion about the helm as well. It seems the early models had the wheel mounted closer to center , however with my 13.5 wheel and hydraulic helm the wheel was touching the port wall of my initial design had to trim back about 8 inches and instead of having a wall that was 27 inches wide it’s now 19.5, but I had a 10 degree camber so it was less.

 

[adverse760]

All i can say is, seal seal seal anywhere you drill a hole or cut a window out. Ideally with epoxy. Plywood cores in my experience always tend to get water intrusion which leads to expansion of the wood, and soft spots. Nidacore as warthog mentioned would be my choice of core material. 25 years experience building pilothouse’s (doghouse)

 

[Longislandfish]

All i can say is, seal seal seal anywhere you drill a hole or cut a window out. Ideally with epoxy. Plywood cores in my experience always tend to get water intrusion which leads to expansion of the wood, and soft spots. Nidacore as warthog mentioned would be my choice of core material. 25 years experience building pilothouse’s (doghouse)

I wish I could have afforded the materials, but if I like this design I have the plans to build another with composite.

I struggled with the proportions but didn’t want to forfeit due to some design hiccups. Sometimes you can’t get everything. I am pretty happy. Will begin glassing it next

 

[Longislandfish]

Got the windows cut out, started sanding the hard edges for the glass work. Overall looks really nice. Will hit coat with polyester resin, and let cure, the lay 2 layers of .75oz csm inside and out. Maybe some tape for the seams. Haven’t decided on lexan windows through bolted with a painted edge, order windows which would be insane or try and source a very odd side extruded window locking trim gasket which is 240 bucks for 36 ft.

Laminated glass will run me 125 bucks for all three so the only cost prohibitive item is the gasket.

Lexan will run 150 for 1/4 4x8 sheet

 

[warthog5]

You WILL be very Hot without a opening window in front on those 90deg days... I Guarantee.

My Parker had just the STB front window to open.... I ordered one for Port side.

 

[Longislandfish]

You WILL be very Hot without a opening window in front on those 90deg days... I Guarantee.

My Parker had just the STB front window to open.... I ordered one for Port side.

Got to source the windows. Wynne prob be 800 bucks for 3, not cost effective on this build. I’m in NE so 90 days aren’t too good for fishing but I agree it would be horrible. This is more for hardcore October November blackfishing when the sound is 2-3ft with 15mph crosswinds.

 

[warthog5]

Just the Front window..... Not the sides.

 

[adverse760]

You WILL be very Hot without a opening window in front on those 90deg days... I Guarantee.

My Parker had just the STB front window to open.... I ordered one for Port side.

I respectfully disagree with this, you won’t be enclosed in a cabin like traditional Parker cabins. There will be sufficient airflow. Consider it like standing under a t-top.

 

[Longislandfish]

I respectfully disagree with this, you won’t be enclosed in a cabin like traditional Parker cabins. There will be sufficient airflow. Consider it like standing under a t-top.

I am hoping this is more of a reality.