Please Help Educate An Eager Potential Parker Buyer

[JohnGalt]

Greetings fellow boaters.

I am new to this forum and the world of Parker boats. I've owned center consoles exclusively but now find , as I've gotten to a certain age , that I would like to have a cabin/wheelhouse to extend my season.

That being said , I am presently looking at a 1997 2330 DV with a 1997 Yamaha Salt Water Series II 225hp outboard with 700 hrs. I would like to know anything and everything that anyone who has experience with these two items can offer.

The boat/motor combination is a bit older than I would prefer , but the price is right , depending on what I can learn from you fellow members.

I have yet to see the boat in person as it's a bit of a hike from my location , but a friend lives nearby the boat and he has suggested that the boat is sound structurally and depending on the engine quality should be worth a sea trial. He is a very skilled diesel mechanic but is unfamiliar with this particular outboard.

Is the Salt water Series II a good motor ? Fuel efficient ? good longevity ? Do they suck ? Should I , by no means , buy one that is 20 years old ? I welcome any response from those of you who've had any first hand experience with these motors.

Now the boat ... how does this model handle the seas? If I go ahead with a sea trial it will necessarily take place on a river while the sum of my boating life is spent in large sounds and the ocean. What kind of sea boat is the 2330 ? Can I run at a decent speed in 4 foot seas without being pounded to the brink of madness? What kind of cruising speed could I expect in calm seas ? Fuel consumption ?

My current Hydrasport CC is 25' long with and 8' beam and it rolls more that I would like. This Parker is 2 feet shorter at 23' yet is beamier by 6" . Does that , along with hull design , make for a more stable platform when drifting?

Any information that I can glean from my fellow members would be greatly appreciated. Thank you , JG

 

[MadGar]

First, I do not own a 2330 or a SW II motor however I can speak somewhat on both. The boat, pending nothing odd happen to the boat, is a very good and sound boat. I own a 1997 2320 and structurally you should be good to go. The boat is over built and heavy for it's size. There is one right now in the project section that a member is updating. It is a bit older.

Just so you know, somewhere around 1996 or 1997 they began putting a heavy coat of epoxy on the under decking of the boat making it much less likely for any floor rot. I have been all over my boat and it is sound and I wouldn't be scared of the age (however still recommend a survey).

As for the motor, and I don't own one, it has a good reputation for being reliable but pretty thirsty compared to the newer 4 strokes. I own a 2001 Ocean pro which is very reliable however the motor you are looking at is much more efficient. The motor is 21 years old however so you must keep your expectations reasonable.

Bottom line, if the boat checks out well and the price is right, I would certainly not hesitate to buy it. I would be prepared to upgrade motor eventually.

 

[mheltunen]

I recently purchased a 1994 2320 extended cabin (this past January). I have not launched her yet so cannot offer any advice on her sea worthiness nor handling. I highly recommend a survey as well with special attention to the fuel tank and the roof. I had a survey conducted and it revealed I had a rotten roof core and was able to negotiate accordingly, essentially the survey paid for itself. Pop off the access covers over the tanks and give that area a visual inspection for signs of leakage from the pie covers. Hopefully some more of the salty veterans will chime in with more advice. Best of luck with your possible acquisition.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Brent]

I recently purchased a 1994 2320 extended cabin (this past January). I have not launched her yet so cannot offer any advice on her sea worthiness nor handling. I highly recommend a survey as well with special attention to the fuel tank and the roof. I had a survey conducted and it revealed I had a rotten roof core and was able to negotiate accordingly, essentially the survey paid for itself. Pop off the access covers over the tanks and give that area a visual inspection for signs of leakage from the pie covers. Hopefully some more of the salty veterans will chime in with more advice. Best of luck with your possible acquisition.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with both guys. A survey would be useful. Engine - hours and service records? Check electrical system condition and for tinkering. Check helm pump and ram for leaks. 2 strokes may need decarbon cleaning, oxygen sensor cleaning and fuel pumps rebuilt. Check windows for corrosion and operational. If has windlass, checking operation and wiring. Any electronics? MSU need to update. Check all hardware for bad spots. Age of batteries.? Maybe old and undersize, and need replacements. Check all bilge pumps. Maybe under size or old. Pull all cockpit pie plates and check for wood rot. Check esp over fuel tank. Photo the tank decal. Is the tank top that you can see, dirty? Any gas odor? Check bilge, too? Check steering, trim n tilt. Does it shift forward m reverse easily? Check carefully cockpit floor for soft spots n repairs. Check transducer mounting for soft spots. Check all lights work. Check windlass? Maybe wired incorrectly. A windlass is expensive to replace. Check lower unit fluid n service records. I just replaced mine. Lower units can be pressure tested. Seller should be willing to discuss boat service n mod. Survey is good idea but does it include motor? Is trailer included? Tires fail but still look great over time. Calculate the upgrade costs in your budget. Does the boat need a thorough cleaning and detail. Are a DIY person or have a good shop and mechanic. I have all. Does it have bottom paint? Check the careful the bottom. New bottom coat is expensive. Check all bracket, trim tabs and motor anodes. Check trim tabs. Lenco or Bennett.? Are they undersize? Fully operational? Motor is a big ticket item so inspect it carefully. Best!

 

[1801Steve]

You didn't say whether the engine was used in fresh or salt. Based on the boat I'd guess salt. In which case a 20 year old outboard is probably at or nearing the end of its useful life. If you buy the boat you should assume that you will have to repower in the near future. Every year that you get out of it is a gift.

 

[JohnGalt]

Thank you all for your input.

I've decided that the boat is worthy of additional examination and am arranging an engine survey now. While I am aware that with a 20+ year old motor , a re-power is in the future , I have no problem with that. I would , however , like to get a season or two out of this engine prior to re-powering but most importantly , I would also like to gain some fuel efficiency over my present CC with a pair of 1994 225 VRO's which are serious gas hogs.

Can anyone tell me if there will be a marked improvement in fuel efficiency from my 1994 Ocean Pros to this only three year newer Yamaha ? Also , is the 1997 Saltwater Series II an 0x66 motor ? And if so is that a bad thing ? My research has led me to drastically different viewpoints on the 0x66. Some say they are great motors while others say they are the worst outboards Yamaha ever produced. Any input is welcome and thanks again for all of your help.

 

[MadGar]

John, as mentioned earlier, I too run an Ocean Pro. Ocean Pros are reliable motors but you are right, gas hogs. They are also carbeurated motors and the Yamaha you are looking at is, I believe, fuel injected. I believe the Saltwater II is when they became fuel injected and yes it is an OX66 motor. With that being said, it will not be as efficient as the new motors but should certainly be significantly more fuel efficient than the Ocean Pros

 

[JohnGalt]

Thank you MadGar. I'm in no way expecting this 20 year old motor to be as efficient as a newer four stroke. I will be happy if I achieve some significant savings , fuel-wise over my present fuel-guzzling VRO's.

My Hydra-Sport with the 2 Ocean Pros on it burns nearly 35-40 gph at a cruise of 25 knots. That kills my fishing/commuting budget in a hurry. If I can reduce my fuel consumption by 25% or better I will consider it a win.

 

[Brent]

The “O” in OX66 stands for “oxygen sensor” and the “X” indicates a V-engine format. The two sixes indicate that each of the six cylinders has its own fuel injector.

 

[Brent]

The “O” in OX66 stands for “oxygen sensor” and the “X” indicates a V-engine format. The two sixes indicate that each of the six cylinders has its own fuel injector.

Sanshin Industries Co., Ltd. was established in 1960 as Yamaha Motor’s marine engine manufacturing subsidiary. Its main business was the development and manufacture of Yamaha-brand outboard motors and other engines. In 2003, the company’s name was changed to Yamaha Marine Co., Ltd. and in 2008, it was merged with Yamaha Motor Co., Ltd.

Both statements from Yamaha.

 

[Brent]

Check the oil reservoir tank is not rusty esp the bracket. They entire assembly may need to be dissembled and cleaned. The pump may need the same or replaced. From what I have read, use a high quality oil and rec gas . The oxygen sensor can be cleaned and cylinders decarbonized. Fuel pumps can leak and can be re built

 

[Brent]

Always buy the Yamaha factory shop manual.

OX66 has oil rod and needs to b checked

See

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-fo ... tment.html

 

[wejohns]

It has been my experience that anytime you buy a rig that old, you buy the boat and anything you get out of the engine is gravy. If I were looking at this rig I would be buying with a repower within a year in mind, that would be regardless of brand or style of engine. If you don't have to repower then you that much better off. My experience with that engine has not been good but know several guys who put a lot of hours on them. I never thought the economy to be much better than most straight carb engines, just easier to start.

 

[wejohns]

To address your other questions, I don't think there is a Parker out there that will allow you to run at a good clip in 4' seas. Other than a good cat not sure any boat under 30' will allow you to do that. My 2520 rides real good sitting in the cockpit on a bean bag but rides like crap in 2-3's driving the boat. Most forward cabin boats have a tendency to hit hard when coming off the back side of waves and will jar your teeth. The boats are well built and will take the big seas but do not have a cushioning ride at all. They are a very stable fishing platform but will roll some but not as bad as an 8' beam V-bottom boat will.

 

[JohnGalt]

Thank you all for your replies. I went ahead and did it and now join the ranks of you fellow Parker owners. The sea trial yielded a reasonable cruising speed of 24 knots with fuel consumption at 17 gph. While that may not be great for some of you with newer 4 stroke engines , coming from a cc with old 2 stroke VRO carburated motors burning over twice that for a comparable cruise I'm very happy. The engine survey yielded compression on all cylinders in the range of 110 - 115. Certainly lower than factory new but indicative of an evenly worn engine.

My question right now is how do I find specs on my boat ? Wiring diagrams , fastener locations , etc. I emailed Parker with the HIN # weeks ago in hopes of getting some help and have been totally ignored. Not happy about that. When I bought my first Hatteras which was a 1966 41C I contacted the factory and had a complete owner's manual showing everything from wiring to plumbing to through hulls within a week. My biggest queries are where I can fasten things and I would really like to know my fuel capacity.

In any event I'm happy to have made the purchase and look forward to restoring it even though it is quite functional right now. I just tried to upload some photos but they are too large. I will reduce them and add asap. Thanks again to all who contributed to my education.

 

[JohnGalt]

Here is one on the Connecticut River.

 

[shawnee83]

Congratulations! Welcome to CP. She looks very clean for her age. Great boat. Good luck.

 

[mheltunen]

Looks good. It’s takes a while and some persistence but if you keep calling and emailing Parker they will provide you with the requested information. In regards to your fuel capacity pop open the hatch cover over the tank and try to find the tag. Most tanks were manufactured by RDS. The tag should have a serial number, then either call or email RDS directly for that information. I went thru the same procedure 2 month ago and found RDS very helpful. In fact they emailed me a print of the tank that my vessel is equipped with. rdsaluminum.com sales


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JohnGalt]

Thank you gents, I appreciate your welcome and input. I now have the boat in the water at my dock and have begun the cleaning process that wasn't possible under the trees in my yard. After launching yesterday I filled the fuel tank and brought it home to my dock.

In trying to clean the cockpit it came to my attention that the scuppers on the transom sit below the waterline and as such they do not drain very well at all , making it hard to get the aft part of the cockpit clean. I also noticed that my boat has a slight list to port which baffles me.

I assume that the fuel tank is centerline. The starboard side has the helm , a large cabinet with an alcohol stove , sink and dual voltage under-counter fridge as well as the oil tank while on the port side there is only a helm seat and a small cabinet/bench seat behind it with the pump for the live well. Also on the port side are the batteries and a swim ladder. It would seem to me that if anything , the craft should be heeling to starboard , not port. Any thoughts ?

PS: Regarding the scuppers , I check the engine bracket and it has no water in it so that is not the reason for the poor drainage.

Thanks , Bruce

 

[JohnGalt]

One more question for those more experienced... Inside my cabin on the deck right inside the door and on the lower deck in the berthing area there are two approximately 4" square recesses about an inch deep with a 3/4" hole into the bilges. Obviously these are for drainage. My question is , was/is there supposed to be some sort of grate that would flush out with the floor and also prevent small objects from being lost forever into the black hole of the bilge ? If so , where can I buy replacement parts or must I fabricate my own ?

Thanks in advance.