cbigma
Well-known member
This is a “rebirth” more than a repower, since it involved a lot more than just the Outboard.
I decided to repower last year for two reasons, 1.) I was too busy to do any of it myself (therefore I knew it would get done quickly :roll: ) and 2.) My OX66 225 was working well (quit while I was ahead). The 2000 Model year 2 Stroke Yamaha was probably only 3/4 way into it’s design life, but our season is so short I can’t afford any down-time when I get dive-time. The older she got, the closer I would get to some down-time.
So by having the re-power done by my local Yamaha dealer during the snowiest winter in Boston history, I was sure that the work would get done un-interrupted, and I’d get the crew’s full attention during an otherwise very slow period for them. We have been doing business with this local dealer since 1972, so we know the crew very well.
First I had to chop her butt out of the snowbank she was frozen into to get her into a nice warm shop.
For the repower I went with an Offshore 300, since the weight of a 300 is the same as for the 250, so why not? I know the Yamaha 4-strokes like higher Octane, but I don’t burn so much fuel in a season that I’m concerned about a few cents more per gallon for the higher Octane fuel. 6 Year Warranty.
While we were at it, I decided it would be silly to not replace the fuel tank. I had no issues with leaking fuel, but the tank was 15 years old. I wanted to have this repower last at least another 15 or 20 years, and I knew I couldn’t expect the original tank to go that far. We also converted to hydraulic steering.
With the deck removed, and fuel tank out. All foam on the sides and undersides of the tank was bone dry.
Digging out all the old foam was a slow dusty process, thankfully I was too busy to help :roll: :roll:
The old fuel tank was in great shape with no signs of corrosion. Probably could have pushed it another five or more years,,,….
The Parker Factory was very helpful providing a stringer layout and fuel tank shop drawing for my hull. I sent the shop drawing to a fabricator in New Jersey, and had a new tank custom-welded.
While they had the OX66 off the transom, we explored the entire expanse with a moisture meter and found no evidence of water intrusion.
Peace of Mind. I also had the scupper tubes removed and replaced.
New last year from Yamaha, new style digital gauges are offered in the original round style, as a direct drop-in replacement for the old round-style OEM. Up until this year, they only offered the “square” model or a single 4 “ display, either option would have required some re-fitting of fiberglass on the console.
After following the various projects on ClassicParker concerning deck non-skid and painting/refinishing techniques, I opted for the factory method.
I opted for the original Parker gel-coat with a non-skid finish.
Finished Deck. A thing of beauty, ready for another 20 years of service.
For a touch of bling I added an Edson Powerwheel to my new hydraulic steering system.
Oh, and I also removed the original helm seat and substituted a leaning/tractor-seat model that I use like a leaning post (99% of the time) but still lets the Admiral sit if she needs to. I never sit at the helm and this replacement was on my list for a few years.
I tried the Todd single leaning post, but it wound up too close to the helm, and I didn't want to relocate the pedestal. So I took a different tack and butchered a stock Bass Pro Shop model, replaced the OEM squishy foam with rigid Jim-Buoy closed cell foam, and made a new cover. Put the whole seat assembly back on the adjustable stock Parker slide frame.
So now she has new power, controls, fuel tank, deck, hydraulic steering, seat, wheel, and scupper tubes.
Why so extensively refit a 15-year old Parker instead of trading up to a newer Model? Because IMHO they simply don’t make a better dive boat in this size class. The 14 degree deadrise of my 2520MV which is the bane of other ClassicParker owners of this model who chase Tuna offshore makes this particular hull the most stable diving platform Parker has ever produced.
While at anchor we can have a crew of fully-clad divers waltzing around in the spacious cockpit without pitching the rest of the crew overboard. My older “Classic” MV model also has a less freeboard, which puts divers closer to the water upon entry, and makes lifting gear and catch onboard easier as well.
The hull is quick to a plane and is fuel-efficient with a single. All the features that made Linwood’s original design a solid working platform for commercial fishing suits Divers just fine. So this is truly my last boat; one that has been a proven performer for us, a trusted member of our family for many years, and worthy of fitting up for the next 20 years.
I decided to repower last year for two reasons, 1.) I was too busy to do any of it myself (therefore I knew it would get done quickly :roll: ) and 2.) My OX66 225 was working well (quit while I was ahead). The 2000 Model year 2 Stroke Yamaha was probably only 3/4 way into it’s design life, but our season is so short I can’t afford any down-time when I get dive-time. The older she got, the closer I would get to some down-time.
So by having the re-power done by my local Yamaha dealer during the snowiest winter in Boston history, I was sure that the work would get done un-interrupted, and I’d get the crew’s full attention during an otherwise very slow period for them. We have been doing business with this local dealer since 1972, so we know the crew very well.
First I had to chop her butt out of the snowbank she was frozen into to get her into a nice warm shop.
For the repower I went with an Offshore 300, since the weight of a 300 is the same as for the 250, so why not? I know the Yamaha 4-strokes like higher Octane, but I don’t burn so much fuel in a season that I’m concerned about a few cents more per gallon for the higher Octane fuel. 6 Year Warranty.
While we were at it, I decided it would be silly to not replace the fuel tank. I had no issues with leaking fuel, but the tank was 15 years old. I wanted to have this repower last at least another 15 or 20 years, and I knew I couldn’t expect the original tank to go that far. We also converted to hydraulic steering.
With the deck removed, and fuel tank out. All foam on the sides and undersides of the tank was bone dry.
Digging out all the old foam was a slow dusty process, thankfully I was too busy to help :roll: :roll:
The old fuel tank was in great shape with no signs of corrosion. Probably could have pushed it another five or more years,,,….
The Parker Factory was very helpful providing a stringer layout and fuel tank shop drawing for my hull. I sent the shop drawing to a fabricator in New Jersey, and had a new tank custom-welded.
While they had the OX66 off the transom, we explored the entire expanse with a moisture meter and found no evidence of water intrusion.
Peace of Mind. I also had the scupper tubes removed and replaced.
New last year from Yamaha, new style digital gauges are offered in the original round style, as a direct drop-in replacement for the old round-style OEM. Up until this year, they only offered the “square” model or a single 4 “ display, either option would have required some re-fitting of fiberglass on the console.
After following the various projects on ClassicParker concerning deck non-skid and painting/refinishing techniques, I opted for the factory method.
I opted for the original Parker gel-coat with a non-skid finish.
Finished Deck. A thing of beauty, ready for another 20 years of service.
For a touch of bling I added an Edson Powerwheel to my new hydraulic steering system.
Oh, and I also removed the original helm seat and substituted a leaning/tractor-seat model that I use like a leaning post (99% of the time) but still lets the Admiral sit if she needs to. I never sit at the helm and this replacement was on my list for a few years.
I tried the Todd single leaning post, but it wound up too close to the helm, and I didn't want to relocate the pedestal. So I took a different tack and butchered a stock Bass Pro Shop model, replaced the OEM squishy foam with rigid Jim-Buoy closed cell foam, and made a new cover. Put the whole seat assembly back on the adjustable stock Parker slide frame.
So now she has new power, controls, fuel tank, deck, hydraulic steering, seat, wheel, and scupper tubes.
Why so extensively refit a 15-year old Parker instead of trading up to a newer Model? Because IMHO they simply don’t make a better dive boat in this size class. The 14 degree deadrise of my 2520MV which is the bane of other ClassicParker owners of this model who chase Tuna offshore makes this particular hull the most stable diving platform Parker has ever produced.
While at anchor we can have a crew of fully-clad divers waltzing around in the spacious cockpit without pitching the rest of the crew overboard. My older “Classic” MV model also has a less freeboard, which puts divers closer to the water upon entry, and makes lifting gear and catch onboard easier as well.
The hull is quick to a plane and is fuel-efficient with a single. All the features that made Linwood’s original design a solid working platform for commercial fishing suits Divers just fine. So this is truly my last boat; one that has been a proven performer for us, a trusted member of our family for many years, and worthy of fitting up for the next 20 years.
