replace thru hull fitting

[99Parker2520]

Need to replace the forward bilge thru hull fitting. Should I use bronze or stainless and I trailer the boat, it is not left in the water. Also what type of sealant should be used?

Thanks

 

[Bryan 2530]

Stainless, 4200.

 

[DaleH]

SS by Gem or Marine Part Depot.

I'd also recommend LifeCaulk by BoatLife - very similar product, but a MUCH better value than any 3M product in that the tubes don't turn hard and unuseable before your next use ...

 

[warthog5]

Highly Recommend this place... http://www.replacementboatparts.com/sta ... ppers.aspx

You want 316 series Stainless.

 

[Megabyte]

1. Remove plastic fitting and clean the opening of any residual sealant.
2. Replace the old fitting with the new one using sealant on both sides.
3. Screw on the backing nut finger tight, then wipe up any extra sealant making a fillet on the outside.
4. Come back 24 hours later and tighten the part gently.
5. Replace the bilge hose, and you are done! 8)

 

[warthog5]

4. Come back 24 hours later and tighten the part gently.

That is where I have a problem...The sealant is also a adhesive or glue of sorts. Trying to of turning the nut after 24hrs is going to break the glue seal.

I've never tightened a thruhull X-ducer nut after a install. I've tried and it wouldn't budge. I just snug it up while the sealant is wet.

 

[Ludicrous40]

I had the same experience with the thru hull transducer that I just installed (Airmar B164). I had every intention of not over tightening, but given that their instructions called for sealant everywhere including all the way up the inside of the spacer, there was no way that I was going to be able to move that nut once things tacked. So I did my best to apply the appropriate amount of sealant, and then tightened knowing that I was trying not to squeeze all of the sealant out.

So far so good, no leaks.

 

[grouperjim]

............ there was no way that I was going to be able to move that nut once things tacked. So I did my best to apply the appropriate amount of sealant, and then tightened knowing that I was trying not to squeeze all of the sealant out.

So far so good, no leaks.

True that........if you get sealant on the threads you're not likely going to be able to come back later and get any more turns on it.

FWIW the Airmar transducer has a groove on the flange where it mates against the hull which prevents starving the joint of sealant. I generally put a solid bead of 4200 on each side of the flange/hull, snug it and be done with it. YMMV

 

[DaleH]

4. Come back 24 hours later and tighten the part gently.

That is where I have a problem...The sealant is also a adhesive or glue of sorts. Trying to of turning the nut after 24hrs is going to break the glue seal.

I've never tightened a thruhull X-ducer nut after a install. I've tried and it wouldn't budge. I just snug it up while the sealant is wet.

True, where this works best is when the part itself or a large SS fender washer is between the goop and the nut, so you can torque the fastener and nut a tad without disturbing the bedding.

The opposite problem, which I believe to be more prevalent, is that most people tend to torque the snot of it a new install so much that they squeeze out ALL of the goop ... resulting in a dry joint.

 

[99Parker2520]

Decided to replace both forward and aft bilge thru hull fittings...came out fairly easy but had to cut the aft 90 degree, sealed very well but both had the inside (nut) only hand tight. All cleaned up and new installs tomorrow. Thanks for all the advice guys, really a no brainer other than deciding on what fitting... ss/plastic/bronze and the sealant. I ended up with the 316 SS and lifecaulk.

 

[warthog5]

These are the 90deg fitting I have aft. This set's you up so the hoses have the proper loop.

Get them at the same link i posted above.

 

[Megabyte]

If you don't have the 90 degree fittings like Bobby has, you can still make a proper weather loop as shown in the photo below.

 

[big_tuna]

Anybody have a recent source for good stainless thru hulls?

 

[warthog5]

The SAME company has them that I listed above....years ago.... That old link doesn't work. So it took 1min at most to get a new link.

316 series Stainless.
https://replacementboatparts.com/co...duct/m=and&p=2&q=Stainless+Thru+Hull+fittings

 

[jimbobsomd2]

Zoro.com

 

[SaltCreek Chris]

Gemlux has always done right by me. If you have a list of fittings you need send me a PM. I can send you back a quote with prices.

 

[Bodick93]

Bronze above or below waterline, stainless above the waterline only. Just because 5200 is meant for permanent applications, doesn't MAKE it permanent. Something like an above waterline through hull, I'm using the correct, toughest part, and 5200. Tighten right then and forget about it forever. Bed it thoroughly to prevent crevice corrosion. Clean the 4200/5200 off the car, dog, refrigerator and surrounding area with mineral spirits when complete.

 

[jpg1969]

The SAME company has them that I listed above....years ago.... That old link doesn't work. So it took 1min at most to get a new link.

316 series Stainless.
https://replacementboatparts.com/co...duct/m=and&p=2&q=Stainless+Thru+Hull+fittings

I also installed the replacementboatparts.com stainless thru-hulls to replace the stock PVC - they were exactly the same size and required no modifications to the existing holes cut by factory. This was probably 10 years ago but at that time Gemlux thru-hulls would have required enlarging the holes. Not sure if that's still holds today (and Gemlux manufactures really nice stuff).