Brent
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here is an article on tank replacement in case you have not seen it
http://marinesurvey.com/yacht/fueltank.htm
http://marinesurvey.com/yacht/fueltank.htm
Replaced my tank in my 2001 23DVCC IN 2016 The tank had many corrosion holes, I had it done Professionally, cost 7K, they moved the Console forward for easier access. The original tanks are not very heavy Guage and not coated.I’m getting ready to replace my leaking fuel tank, and would appreciate any advice on how to go about it. I need to buy some tools to cut the deck out, and I am not sure if a circular saw or a sawzall will work best. Eric Denton at Parker sent me the stringer schematics and from what I can tell it looks like the tank takes up almost the entire space between the stringers and a forward bulkhead; so I will need to cut just inside the stringers and forward bulkhead. After I get the deck off is it just a matter of cutting, scraping, and digging out the foam until I can access the brackets that secure the tank to the stringers? Once the brackets are unbolted how difficult is it to lift the tank out? Also if the tank looks good (maybe a cracked weld or pinhole) can it be repaired? It sounds like a new tank is about $1,000 - so if possible I’d like to repair it. The boat is a 2002 2320 with a 150 gallon fuel tank.
Replaced my tank in my 2001 23DVCC IN 2016 The tank had many corrosion holes, I had it done Professionally, cost 7K, they moved the Console forward for easier access. The original tanks are not very heavy Guage and not coated.
Looks as bad as my old tank.My tank on a 2001 2110WA is being done by a boat yard. Full of pin holes on the left from side. I replaced all of the hoses and resealed the sending unit. It will be expensive but I was relieved that it was indeed the tank and I wasn’t throwing money down the drain.
For those of you who did the tank removal yourself, did you have to deal with nails holding the decking down on the stringers. I would ideally like to cut on or past the stringers to have a ledge to rest the deck back down on, but at least on the 2320 I was told the nails made that a PITA. So they recommended cutting on the inside of the structural members then adding ledgers or brackets after the fact.Just a little tip , when I did my replacement I made a foam rake . Take a piece of 1/2 metal conduit and flatten 1 end, hacksaw some vee notches to simulate a rake then bend the end 90 degrees about 1 inch from the end. This will help get down along the stringers to get the foam out. Also I support cutting the deck over the center line of the stringers. Use a very small drill and drill holes about 1/4 inch apart going across the top of the stringers perpendicular to prove that they are where the drawing claims them to be , you will feel the difference when you drill into the stringer, then layout the width on the deck for a guide. Good Luck. take your time , cutting the deck is the most stressful part.
2001 23DVCC tank replacement in 2016For those of you who did the tank removal yourself, did you have to deal with nails holding the decking down on the stringers. I would ideally like to cut on or past the stringers to have a ledge to rest the deck back down on, but at least on the 2320 I was told the nails made that a PITA. So they recommended cutting on the inside of the structural members then adding ledgers or brackets after the fact.
Thoughts?
Thanks, saw those same pics in this thread earlier. I see that you cut on the stringers/bulkheads. Did you run into any nails holding the decking down?2001 23DVCC tank replacement in 2016
I did not do the work myself. Markys Marine in Key Largo replaced the tank.Disregard Key Largo, thanks. After zooming in I can see the nails. Was it a pain to lift the decking with it nailed in place? Would it be easier to cut on the inside to avoid the nails then install ledgers/brackets after?
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