I’m getting ready to replace my leaking fuel tank, and would appreciate any advice on how to go about it. I need to buy some tools to cut the deck out, and I am not sure if a circular saw or a sawzall will work best. Eric Denton at Parker sent me the stringer schematics and from what I can tell it looks like the tank takes up almost the entire space between the stringers and a forward bulkhead; so I will need to cut just inside the stringers and forward bulkhead. After I get the deck off is it just a matter of cutting, scraping, and digging out the foam until I can access the brackets that secure the tank to the stringers? Once the brackets are unbolted how difficult is it to lift the tank out? Also if the tank looks good (maybe a cracked weld or pinhole) can it be repaired? It sounds like a new tank is about $1,000 - so if possible I’d like to repair it. The boat is a 2002 2320 with a 150 gallon fuel tank.
Replacing fuel tank on 2002 2320
- Thread starter MacFern
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use a circular saw set to the thickness of the deck and cut along the outline you have put on the deck provided by Parker.
I changed a tank (not foamed in) and after I got the brackets disconnected I used thin steel cable slipped under the tank to lift it out of the tight tank area. It is a tough job to cut the deck so measure three times and cut once.
IMO-I would go for a new tank if I were keeping the boat.
Try to cut on the middle of the stingers without going deeply into them, this way the deck you remove will sit on the stringer again when you replace it.
If you cut inside of the stringer then the deck piece you have cut out will fall down between the stringers when you go to reinstall it.
How are you going to refinish the deck when it is all done?
Good luck with the job
I changed a tank (not foamed in) and after I got the brackets disconnected I used thin steel cable slipped under the tank to lift it out of the tight tank area. It is a tough job to cut the deck so measure three times and cut once.
IMO-I would go for a new tank if I were keeping the boat.
Try to cut on the middle of the stingers without going deeply into them, this way the deck you remove will sit on the stringer again when you replace it.
If you cut inside of the stringer then the deck piece you have cut out will fall down between the stringers when you go to reinstall it.
How are you going to refinish the deck when it is all done?
Good luck with the job
windknotnc
Well-known member
You need to look out for more that the stringers. There are fuel lines, wiring, and the space around the tank is very tight. Take a look at some of the pics on my post 21 Rehab. The foam around the tank will be tough to remove as there is only about 1" on each side. There is about 2 1/2-3" beneath. This foam is most likely going to be saturated with fuel, so you need to be really careful. Make sure your batteries are removed.
I was going to add ledger strips the entire length of the stringers and forward bulkhead to support the reinstalled deck (Erik Denton’s recommendation), but one of my concerns with that idea was the minimal space between the tank and stringers. I guess cutting out over the stringers is another option.
I will drain the tank, and remove the battery, fuel lines and wires - are there additional lines/wires besides the fill, vent, and supply to the engine? The only wires I can see are for the fuel sending unit and the green bonding wires.
I guess you just dig out the foam little by little - any secrets on the best way to remove?
I would like to keep the boat, and at least that's the plan for now. But if the tank is in relatively good condition is repairing it an option? The boat is not that old (2002), and it has always been kept on a trailer. The first 3-4 years it was kept in a garage. I guess I'm assuming it should be in good condition. I still can't believe there is a leak.
to finish the job I was going to grind the edges 2-3 inches back on both sides of the cut, glass the ledgers in place, apply 3m marine filler/putty generously around the top of the ledger strips, slowly mash the deck back into place until it's level, and then glass over the cut, then do my best to finish with gel coat with non-skid mixed in. I am planning to install the tank the same way Parker did - bolt on and pour in 2 part foam.
This is the plan based on my conversation with Erik at Parker, who was really helpful and discussed the project with me for about 45 minutes on the phone.
But I am open to other ideas. windknotnc I have reviewed your project, which makes my project look easy, but I do not have any experience with this kind of work so overconfidence is definitely not a problem.
I will drain the tank, and remove the battery, fuel lines and wires - are there additional lines/wires besides the fill, vent, and supply to the engine? The only wires I can see are for the fuel sending unit and the green bonding wires.
I guess you just dig out the foam little by little - any secrets on the best way to remove?
I would like to keep the boat, and at least that's the plan for now. But if the tank is in relatively good condition is repairing it an option? The boat is not that old (2002), and it has always been kept on a trailer. The first 3-4 years it was kept in a garage. I guess I'm assuming it should be in good condition. I still can't believe there is a leak.
to finish the job I was going to grind the edges 2-3 inches back on both sides of the cut, glass the ledgers in place, apply 3m marine filler/putty generously around the top of the ledger strips, slowly mash the deck back into place until it's level, and then glass over the cut, then do my best to finish with gel coat with non-skid mixed in. I am planning to install the tank the same way Parker did - bolt on and pour in 2 part foam.
This is the plan based on my conversation with Erik at Parker, who was really helpful and discussed the project with me for about 45 minutes on the phone.
But I am open to other ideas. windknotnc I have reviewed your project, which makes my project look easy, but I do not have any experience with this kind of work so overconfidence is definitely not a problem.
windknotnc
Well-known member
The thing that makes me a little nervous is that the tank should not have developed any leaks unless water and air get between the foam and aluminum tank. The foam will be a pain to pick out, but you will get it out eventually. Look out for your engine wiring harness and associated rigging. It will be in a 5" PVC tube that is cut into the box surrounding the tank. Once you get the tank out and the all the foam check out your stringers to make sure there are no cracks or places water could get into box. As far the usability of your tank, it really depends on the condition. If your tank is mostly good with one area of corrosion and very small holes, I would sand with an orbital sander and stainless steel brush to really clean it up good, then use the marine JB Weld for tanks and fill the voids. Sand it back smooth and clean the entire tank with acetone. Then completely seal your tank with GLUVIT Marine Epoxy. This will end any future corrosion and your tank should be good to go. Reinstall the tank and pour your foam. Where are you located?
Yeah, I am wondering what caused the leak too. Maybe it will be clear once the deck and foam is out of the way. I would prefer a new tank, but it's not in the budget - does the $1,000 sound right? Anyone replace one recently for much less?
"sand with an orbital sander and stainless steel brush to really clean it up good, then use the marine JB Weld for tanks and fill the voids. Sand it back smooth and clean the entire tank with acetone. Then completely seal your tank with GLUVIT Marine Epoxy." Hopefully this is an option. And I am in the Tampa Bay area.
Thanks for the advice
"sand with an orbital sander and stainless steel brush to really clean it up good, then use the marine JB Weld for tanks and fill the voids. Sand it back smooth and clean the entire tank with acetone. Then completely seal your tank with GLUVIT Marine Epoxy." Hopefully this is an option. And I am in the Tampa Bay area.
Thanks for the advice
windknotnc
Well-known member
What size tank is it. Here it the label from my tank. Call the manufacturer to see what cost to replace is. If for some reason one end of the tank is in bad shape, you could take it to a good welder and have the end removed and replaced. Much less than $1000.
When I called RDS, they emailed me the specs of my tank and provided me tech advise on moving the gauge/sending unit.
When I called RDS, they emailed me the specs of my tank and provided me tech advise on moving the gauge/sending unit.
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Bryan 2530
Well-known member
Make sure you take lots of pics when you cut the deck. 8)
Bryan 2530
Well-known member
Did you try these guys??
Friend of mine used them years ago and they were very reasonable.
http://www.speedytanks.com/home.html
Friend of mine used them years ago and they were very reasonable.
http://www.speedytanks.com/home.html
Brent
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Where do you think the leak is located?
Brent, I'm not sure where the leak is, but the gas is coming out of the little pvc pipe that is on the starboard sde of the little compartment just forward of he tank. On my boat it's the small space between the big in deck fish hold and the space that holds the fuel tank. I posted photos way back when I first discovered the leak, but I don't know how to add/reference the link to that post.
Bryan 2530
Well-known member
MacFern":szf99q2e said:
Yikes!!! :shock:
Is it possible it could be a hole in the fill tube??
Might be worth a check before you rip up the deck.
Brent
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MacFern
At the bottom of each of your postings, click on your profile button
and goes to your Profile page
Then click on "search user's posts"
Locate the posting and click on it.
Copy the link from the address bar using your mouse
ex viewtopic.php?f=19&t=11082
and post it in a message
At the bottom of each of your postings, click on your profile button
and goes to your Profile page
Then click on "search user's posts"
Locate the posting and click on it.
Copy the link from the address bar using your mouse
ex viewtopic.php?f=19&t=11082
and post it in a message
Brent
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Maybe a bore-scope will help
http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... JIBEPMCMAM
I dont have one so no help on image quality and usefulness
http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... JIBEPMCMAM
I dont have one so no help on image quality and usefulness
noquestion
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If you need to cut the foam use a 24 in or larger hand limb saw. 20 bucks at home depot. It will allow you to get the tank free. Like the other guy said peice of wire to get underneath to lift it out. It will be heavy and awkward get a friend to help.
IMO gas tank don't fix it, replace it
. Do yourself the favor by blocking tank back in place and not using foam. Foam causes issues around tanks, your better off having air around the tank.
$1000 bucks for the tank is about right.
Good luck it is not that tough of a job
IMO gas tank don't fix it, replace it
. Do yourself the favor by blocking tank back in place and not using foam. Foam causes issues around tanks, your better off having air around the tank.
$1000 bucks for the tank is about right.
Good luck it is not that tough of a job
