Rod Holder Mounting Surface Gap

[Miker1234]

So I ordered factory rod holders from Parker a few months ago and just got around to test mounting them. There is a less than a .125” gap and the mounting surfaces don’t lie flush.

I was going to mount the two if the three screws on the plates and the last one until it’s flush but I’m concerned it will introduce stress into the weld. However, It’s somewhat flexible overall. It has a total of three mounting points locations (two in the photos and one in the middle, so even if it doesn’t lay flush it will have sufficient support.

Any thoughts on this?

Is it preferred to mount these directly to the fiberglass or should I add the foam sheet like the rails and bow rails have?

Does anyone know the name of the foam sheet? This

15 Pack Adhesive 1/16" Thick Neoprene Rubber Sheets, 12"x12" Sponge Foam Pads?​

 

[warthog5]

That just looks like warpage.... Piece was set in a jig and tacked together.... Then removed from jig and finished welded...Thats when the extra heat got thrown to it and it moved. Sealent and thru Bolting is about as good as you can do.


You say you got them from Parker....I'm betting Parker farms them out....I know shops that build for different manufactures. Parker builds boats....The parts they use can come from anywhere.

 

[Miker1234]

@warthog5 do you think I need the foam between the fiberglass and aluminum?

 

[warthog5]

A bead of Sealent and thru Bolting is about as good as you can do.

 

[Miker1234]

A bead of Sealent and thru Bolting is about as good as you can do.

Should I add foam sheet between the rod holder and the fiberglass or not?

 

[Andy]

Should I add foam sheet between the rod holder and the fiberglass or not?

I've sanded and shaped perfectly-sized/shaped custom 'wedges' to fill the gaps in antenna mounts, door-dog mounting plates and rod holders like yours, using teak and have also used dense pvc/ plastic. It takes a little time and patience. Most of the work was done with a bench-style belt-sander; trial-and-error-fitting. I preferred having something solid in the gap when tightening down the bolts.

 

[Miker1234]

I've sanded and shaped perfect-sized custom 'wedges' to fill the gaps in antenna mounts, door-dog mounting plates and rod holders like yours, using teak and have also used dense pvc/ plastic. It takes a little time and patience. Most of the work was done with a bench-style belt-sander; trial-and-error-fitting. I preferred having something solid in the gap when tightening down the bolts.

I have a similar setup for my antenna using a rubber wedge.

 

[gman1001]

Consider sanding the bottom face flat. I’d do that then paint with various paints to seal things up. Is it aluminum or SS? Either won’t take much to sand flat by turning over a belt sander hand then holding the rod holder in your hands. Before sanding lightly spray paint the bottom so you know you are focusing the sanding where it counts

 

[Miker1234]

Consider sanding the bottom face flat. I’d do that then paint with various paints to seal things up. Is it aluminum or SS? Either won’t take much to sand flat by turning over a belt sander hand then holding the rod holder in your hands. Before sanding lightly spray paint the bottom so you know you are focusing the sanding where it counts

It’s aluminum. It’s either this option or using a wedge.

 

[gman1001]

It’s aluminum. It’s either this option or using a wedge.

There u go! Since it’s alum, and the gains small if lean toward sanding. Hard to get the wedge perfect - crud and water will get in there over time and filling gaps with 4200 doesn’t look all that great

 

[GW Performance Welding]

So I ordered factory rod holders from Parker a few months ago and just got around to test mounting them. There is a less than a .125” gap and the mounting surfaces don’t lie flush.

I was going to mount the two if the three screws on the plates and the last one until it’s flush but I’m concerned it will introduce stress into the weld. However, It’s somewhat flexible overall. It has a total of three mounting points locations (two in the photos and one in the middle, so even if it doesn’t lay flush it will have sufficient support.

Any thoughts on this?

Is it preferred to mount these directly to the fiberglass or should I add the foam sheet like the rails and bow rails have?

Does anyone know the name of the foam sheet? This

15 Pack Adhesive 1/16" Thick Neoprene Rubber Sheets, 12"x12" Sponge Foam Pads?​

There could be a few reasons that there is a gap there but it's not enough to really worry about. My suggestion would be to mark all the holes and drill them in the hardtop first. Then lay a heavy bed of chalk, 3m 5200 works good for this, and make sure you have some around the holes, so it seals them up. Install and bolt down, more than likely the gap will close up some and the caulk will fill any voids between pad and hardtop. Just make sure you don't try to go crazy tightening up the bolts since they are only 1/4". Once done clean up what chalk squeezed out, if you use 5200 mineral spirits works great for cleaning up.

 

[Dougk]

There could be a few reasons that there is a gap there but it's not enough to really worry about. My suggestion would be to mark all the holes and drill them in the hardtop first. Then lay a heavy bed of chalk, 3m 5200 works good for this, and make sure you have some around the holes, so it seals them up. Install and bolt down, more than likely the gap will close up some and the caulk will fill any voids between pad and hardtop. Just make sure you don't try to go crazy tightening up the bolts since they are only 1/4". Once done clean up what chalk squeezed out, if you use 5200 mineral spirits works great for cleaning up.

Parker told me they use the Gem Lux 315530 rod holders. I added two and they match the existing ones perfectly. I would not use 5200. There are other options that seal without the being as permanent. Threw bolt with washers or the backing plate Gem Lux offers and nylock nuts.

 

[warthog5]

5200...... The most USED and ABUSED product in the boating Industry !

 

[Bodick93]

This is the rod holder assembly for the top of a pilothouse, correct?
Personally I would not sand on them. I am NOT a welder by trade, but still wouldn't want to "break the seal" on the anodizing.
How much pressure is required to make the feet sit flat? If just a little, do that before marking the holes.
I would use 5200 also. It seems that people that assemble things and want them to stay put (like T-Tops and leaning posts) use 5200, and the people that replace parts hate it and want ANYTHING else used haha.

 

[Miker1234]

There could be a few reasons that there is a gap there but it's not enough to really worry about. My suggestion would be to mark all the holes and drill them in the hardtop first. Then lay a heavy bed of chalk, 3m 5200 works good for this, and make sure you have some around the holes, so it seals them up. Install and bolt down, more than likely the gap will close up some and the caulk will fill any voids between pad and hardtop. Just make sure you don't try to go crazy tightening up the bolts since they are only 1/4". Once done clean up what chalk squeezed out, if you use 5200 mineral spirits works great for cleaning up.this was my first course of action

There could be a few reasons that there is a gap there but it's not enough to really worry about. My suggestion would be to mark all the holes and drill them in the hardtop first. Then lay a heavy bed of chalk, 3m 5200 works good for this, and make sure you have some around the holes, so it seals them up. Install and bolt down, more than likely the gap will close up some and the caulk will fill any voids between pad and hardtop. Just make sure you don't try to go crazy tightening up the bolts since they are only 1/4". Once done clean up what chalk squeezed out, if you use 5200 mineral spirits works great for cleaning up.

I was thinking that too. The gap isn’t too big.
I’m sure tightening the screws will get it to lie flatter. Thanks!

 

[Miker1234]

This is the rod holder assembly for the top of a pilothouse, correct?
Personally I would not sand on them. I am NOT a welder by trade, but still wouldn't want to "break the seal" on the anodizing.
How much pressure is required to make the feet sit flat? If just a little, do that before marking the holes.
I would use 5200 also. It seems that people that assemble things and want them to stay put (like T-Tops and leaning posts) use 5200, and the people that replace parts hate it and want ANYTHING else used haha.

Yes, the rod holders on top of the pilot house. @Bodick93

 

[rnjpinz]

Yes, the rod holders on top of the pilot house. @Bodick93