Scupper drains / hardware sealan

[gibby-up]

I need to replace the scupper drain tubes on my 23 SE. The original brass tubes have corrosion and the flanges on the inside of the splash well are comprised. Thoughts to replace with the same or are there better options?

 

[gibby-up]

I need to replace the scupper drain tubes on my 23 SE. The original brass tubes have corrosion and the flanges on the inside of the splash well are comprised. Thoughts to replace with the same or are there better options?

Also, I plan to remove all of my cleats, rod holders and fuel cap to re-seal and replace any of the stainless fasteners. What is a preferred sealant to use for reinstalling the hardware and fasteners?

Thanks

 

[warthog5]

If you go thru the many ...many pages of my 2530 build...You will see I enlarged the holes and epoxy/Cabisol bonded sch 40 PVC back in the holes.... One of the BIG things is sealing the wood in all those places your talking about. It's a Lot harder to get a hold of now because people don't buy it 3M 101.....They think 5200 should be used on everything...

 

[pelagic2530]

If you go thru the many ...many pages of my 2530 build...You will see I enlarged the holes and epoxy/Cabisol bonded sch 40 PVC back in the holes.... One of the BIG things is sealing the wood in all those places your talking about. It's a Lot harder to get a hold of now because people don't buy it 3M 101.....They think 5200 should be used on everything...

Warthog, correct me if I'm wrong, from looking at it 3M 101 looks to be a basic sealant, without the adhesive qualities of the 4200/5200 products, right? It also appears as though it's out of production; any advice for a comparable product?

I really wish 3M did a better job of providing a comparison for properties/applications of their marine line of products. It's pretty difficult for the layman to decide which is the best tool for the job, with the end result of (as you stated) people using an adhesive sealant in a lot of places where the adhesive element just makes things more difficult in the long run.

 

[gibby-up]

Much appreciated. I found replacement drain tubes and definitely want to get the sealant right for the tubes and top deck.

 

[SBH2OMan]

what about West Systems SIX10? Six10 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive • WEST SYSTEM

According to West Systems, it will wet out wood and fiberglass while still staying thick enough to not sag and run. Adhesive + sealant. But PERMANENT I would imagine....

"All adhesives rely on good surface “wet out” and saturation to achieve a good bond to the substrate. Six10 has a viscosity high enough to resist sagging but can still saturate and wet-out a surface without pre-coating, thanks in part to shear thinning. Our chemists accomplished this formulation by using an ingenious filler package in both the resin and hardener components."

 

[gibby-up]

Thanks for the suggestion. I plan to use some type of epoxy based product to seal the rough opening in both the transom and top deck. And leaning towards 3M's 4000 UV for re-bedding the deck hardware and fasteners. Appreciate the help.

 

[warthog5]

That would be good Gibby-Up...... You would have plenty with a couple of "Sample Kit's"

The West System Six10 is a Great product in places....But there are Couple of problems with it. #1 It's expensive! #2 you better buy extra tips....#3...It's deceiving as to how much product is in that custom tube.......It's not near as much as you think.

I did some epoxy bonding the other week. It was bonding the metal substrate to the hood on my '55 Fairlane. I use US Composits 2 to 1 epoxy.....Mix in Cabisol to get a mashed potato mix.....Then us a 60cc or 90cc syringe and fill the syringe with the mix....No needle and have cut the opening spout off a little to get a bigger opening.

I've used this way ......way before six10 ever came out and it still works well.