B-Faithful
Well-known member
WOW!. No one would believe she is over 17 years old! I will email you about the canvas person. I have trailered too much with my canvas up and some of the stitching needs to be redone. Are you fishing this weekend?
Spring 2013 Project time!
- Thread starter Megabyte
- Start date
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DBthal
Active member
Megabyte,
How do you go about maintaining the non-skid on the topsides of your boat? Beyond washing, are you putting boat wax on the non-skid? The non-skid on my boat is a very oxidized area, but I wasn't sure what could be done to correct or protect this area.
Thanks,
Dan
Dan, I had never put anything on the non-skid before... well, because it was non skid, but that changed a couple of years ago.
I first tried Woody Wax, and I still do occasionally in the 'rough' non-skid in the cockpit area.
As you noticed, if you don't do anything with the splatter type non-skid, it eventually chalks.
What I was seeing was that chalked gelcoat was running off the forward deck and staining the hull side where rain and wash water drains.
I posed the question about what to do with my neighbor who owns a yacht management and detailing business...
He asks me... do you ever walk up on the forward deck in bare feet when it's wet?
Not really. I'm only up there when washing it, and I generally wear sneakers or sandals.
So he sends one of his guys over to demonstrate...
One Makita buffer, one wool pad, and a bottle of cleaner wax, and he went at it.
Buff off any excess wax with an old bath towel.
The job went quick and for the rest of the season, no more gelcoat chalk stains.
It doesn't take much to get it sealed and keep it maintained, so that is what I do now.
I did give my pilothouse top 2 coats this year since the top is more exposed to the elements, but the rest gets a single coat which lasts all season.
I would not use this method on the 'rough' non-skid, but on the 'splatter' non-skid, it protects the gelcoat and keeps it from chalking.
Hope this helps.
I first tried Woody Wax, and I still do occasionally in the 'rough' non-skid in the cockpit area.
As you noticed, if you don't do anything with the splatter type non-skid, it eventually chalks.
What I was seeing was that chalked gelcoat was running off the forward deck and staining the hull side where rain and wash water drains.
I posed the question about what to do with my neighbor who owns a yacht management and detailing business...
He asks me... do you ever walk up on the forward deck in bare feet when it's wet?
Not really. I'm only up there when washing it, and I generally wear sneakers or sandals.
So he sends one of his guys over to demonstrate...
One Makita buffer, one wool pad, and a bottle of cleaner wax, and he went at it.
Buff off any excess wax with an old bath towel.
The job went quick and for the rest of the season, no more gelcoat chalk stains.
It doesn't take much to get it sealed and keep it maintained, so that is what I do now.
I did give my pilothouse top 2 coats this year since the top is more exposed to the elements, but the rest gets a single coat which lasts all season.
I would not use this method on the 'rough' non-skid, but on the 'splatter' non-skid, it protects the gelcoat and keeps it from chalking.
Hope this helps.
Sunshine today, and progress was made.
Concentrated on a lot of detail work today.
2 coats of cleaner wax and 1 coat of polish on the rear steering station.
2 coats of cleaner wax and one coat of polish on the transom area.
Another coat of polish on the pilothouse around all of the windows.
One coat of cleaner wax on the trunk cabin 'splatter' non-skid.
And detail work all around the pilothouse top (including underneath the overhangs) as well as around the entire cockpit/washboard edges.
I plan to give the trunk cabin another coat of polish on Friday, and will be able to call the topsides 'almost done'.
Getting closer every day.
Concentrated on a lot of detail work today.
2 coats of cleaner wax and 1 coat of polish on the rear steering station.
2 coats of cleaner wax and one coat of polish on the transom area.
Another coat of polish on the pilothouse around all of the windows.
One coat of cleaner wax on the trunk cabin 'splatter' non-skid.
And detail work all around the pilothouse top (including underneath the overhangs) as well as around the entire cockpit/washboard edges.
I plan to give the trunk cabin another coat of polish on Friday, and will be able to call the topsides 'almost done'.
Getting closer every day.
Attachments
![Garmin ECHOMAP UHD2 53CV Chartplotter/Fishfinder with US Inland Maps and GT20-TM [010-02590-51]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/314dMbaaLhL._SL500_.jpg)
Bryan 2530
Well-known member
Kev, what are you doing under the overhangs of the pilot house and under the pulpit??
Cleaner wax?
Cleaner wax?
Megabyte":36eqohn5 said:
I'm not familiar with Fluid Film. I think Penetrol was intended as a paint additive to help with flow and I suspect it's some kind of oil based. Picked up the tip of using it as a fiberglass restorer on a sailboat forum years ago. About $10/ quart which goes a long way. It held up on my sailboat's non-skid for a half a season or so (with frequent washing/scrubbing) and then it was time to re-apply. Put on with a wide chip brush, the job went much quicker than compounding/waxing, etc. It almost seemed to simply -re-lube- the gelcoat, turning it a shade darker and getting rid of chalkiness. Doesn't exactly solve the issue of gelcoat breaking down in uv, probably like putting a coat of armorall on a car's vinyl interior...looks good for a while then needs to be redone.
Pretty available in most paint departments...my local tru-value carries it.
http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/ ... netrol.php
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... do?pid=174
Weather today was interesting.
Winds from the south at about 20 knots, some sun, some clouds, raining as I write this...
Waxing on the exterior is essentially done.
Spent the day detailing the trunk cabin as well as the bow rails and water lip above the rub rail.
Except for some minor detail work, this might be the last work I do before she splashes, once the motor work is complete.
While working on the bow railing area today, I suffered an injury that might keep me limited for a bit.
I stepped off the ladder today thinking I was two steps from the ground.
Turns out I was three steps.
Jammed my right leg into the ground and re-injured my MCL which I did a year ago while competing in Hero Rush.
As soon as I hit the ground, I knew exactly what I had done.
Very painful now, but I'll get through it.
A couple photos of the finished product (without the boot stripe).
Still waiting for the hull tape to arrive.
Winds from the south at about 20 knots, some sun, some clouds, raining as I write this...
Waxing on the exterior is essentially done.
Spent the day detailing the trunk cabin as well as the bow rails and water lip above the rub rail.
Except for some minor detail work, this might be the last work I do before she splashes, once the motor work is complete.
While working on the bow railing area today, I suffered an injury that might keep me limited for a bit.
I stepped off the ladder today thinking I was two steps from the ground.
Turns out I was three steps.
Jammed my right leg into the ground and re-injured my MCL which I did a year ago while competing in Hero Rush.
As soon as I hit the ground, I knew exactly what I had done.
Very painful now, but I'll get through it.
A couple photos of the finished product (without the boot stripe).
Still waiting for the hull tape to arrive.
Attachments
Todays update...
Weather was sunny, but the high temperature for the day was only 50.
Where the hell is spring!
Spent the day doing wax detail work (mostly around the windows), and some pondering about whether I want to put a boot stripe on her this year.
Went to the hardware store and bought 3 rolls of painters tape. 1", 1.5", and 2"... or so I thought.
Turns out the tape is .94", 1.41", and 1.88". :roll:
If you look at the photo of the tape rolls, the one on the far right is the 2" hull stripe tape (in "Olympic Blue").
So I laid out 2 sections with the painters tape to see how the hull tape would look with a 1" separation from the bottom paint, and another with a 1.5" separation.
I think I like the 1" separation the best. You guys tell me.
The boot stripe is not a project that I can do alone, so if I can find competent help before the boat splashes, I'm going to give it a try.
Otherwise, she will stay naked for this season.
Motor service still needs to be completed (and the motor raised) before she splashes, so I have some time.
Photos:
Weather was sunny, but the high temperature for the day was only 50.
Where the hell is spring!
Spent the day doing wax detail work (mostly around the windows), and some pondering about whether I want to put a boot stripe on her this year.
Went to the hardware store and bought 3 rolls of painters tape. 1", 1.5", and 2"... or so I thought.
Turns out the tape is .94", 1.41", and 1.88". :roll:
If you look at the photo of the tape rolls, the one on the far right is the 2" hull stripe tape (in "Olympic Blue").
So I laid out 2 sections with the painters tape to see how the hull tape would look with a 1" separation from the bottom paint, and another with a 1.5" separation.
I think I like the 1" separation the best. You guys tell me.
The boot stripe is not a project that I can do alone, so if I can find competent help before the boat splashes, I'm going to give it a try.
Otherwise, she will stay naked for this season.
Motor service still needs to be completed (and the motor raised) before she splashes, so I have some time.
Photos:
Attachments
warthog5
Well-known member
OK...I understand your using the painters tape due to it's cheap and the right color.... Correct? Your NOT going to use it for the actual layout. Correct?
You go to the auto Body supply store and get 3M Fineline tape for that. It gives a crisp edge. That "Painters Tape / House painting tape] will not.
I know you removed them, but The Black & Red I liked on the lettering. Ed Cox's Mako we used Red & Black on the Boot Stripe to match the colors on the Optimax.
I'd prefer something like this. The wide stripe Black and the thin stripe Red on yours.
You go to the auto Body supply store and get 3M Fineline tape for that. It gives a crisp edge. That "Painters Tape / House painting tape] will not.
I know you removed them, but The Black & Red I liked on the lettering. Ed Cox's Mako we used Red & Black on the Boot Stripe to match the colors on the Optimax.
I'd prefer something like this. The wide stripe Black and the thin stripe Red on yours.
The painters tape was to give a visual, and to get an idea of how far I wanted to stand off the bottom paint.
It's a reference mark.
The boot stripe will not be painted. I'm using hull tape so I can change the color if or when I want to.
Black and/or red would be perfect if I re-apply the logo. I'm just not convinced that I want to put the logo back on just yet.
It's a reference mark.
The boot stripe will not be painted. I'm using hull tape so I can change the color if or when I want to.
Black and/or red would be perfect if I re-apply the logo. I'm just not convinced that I want to put the logo back on just yet.
Kevin,
What do you see as preventing you from doing the boot stripe yourself, especially if you use the blue tape as a spacing/alignment tool? Not criticizing, just curious what you are thinking in the event I go down this path at some point.
I prefer the spacing on the right -- 1" I believe.
Are you going to continue the boot stripe all the way to the bow, or stop where the topmost chine crosses the waterline?
-- Tom
What do you see as preventing you from doing the boot stripe yourself, especially if you use the blue tape as a spacing/alignment tool? Not criticizing, just curious what you are thinking in the event I go down this path at some point.
I prefer the spacing on the right -- 1" I believe.
Are you going to continue the boot stripe all the way to the bow, or stop where the topmost chine crosses the waterline?
-- Tom
TomS":aibr47ke said:
I'm not certain that I could roll out the boot tape, and get it aligned with the reference tape, especially since the surface is curved and not flat.
What I don't want is a wavy line...
My thought was that if I had a helper, he could move the roll up or down as needed while the boot tape was affixed.
Jim Maier was telling me that the best way to do tape was to roll out 10' or more and keep it tight as it was laid down.
I can't do that alone.
TomS":aibr47ke said:
Good question.
Since deciding to do this, I've been looking at a lot of boats...
Saw one in Annapolis Harbor today with a similar hull design to mine, and that boat only ran the boot stripe up as far as the chine.
So, the answer is... I don't know. I guess I'll decide that when I get that far.
Since it's tape, if I don't like it, I can always remove it.
Gotcha - Looks like Steiger Craft is the manufacturer that I was thinking of that only goes to the chine/waterline point.
Looks good, especially with the thick / thin strip like Warthog posted.
-- Tom
Looks good, especially with the thick / thin strip like Warthog posted.
-- Tom
