The guy at West Marine said Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment would provide the same (or better) results as ringfree. I have a 2002 2320 with a Yamaha 225 four stroke that I purchased a few months ago. So far I have not added anything to the fuel, and I do not know if the prior owner did. The motor has run great, and I hate to mess up what's not broken. Should I start adding this Star Tron product, or ringfree, or nothing?
Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment
- Thread starter MacFern
- Start date
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I side with Kevin on this one. My 3-year warranty just expired and I extended it with the Y.E.S (Yamaha Extended Warranty) for another 3 years. While under warranty I'll stay with the Yamaha product. After that, I might look for a more cost effective solution.
jeffnick
Well-known member
What are y'all paying for Ringfree?
How do these numbers look?
Ring Free 12oz Bottles – Each………..………$14.69/pt ($1.22/oz)
Ring Free 12oz Bottles – Each (Case of 12)…..$13.79/pt ($1.14/oz –
$165.48/case)
Ring Free Quarts – 1 Each…………………….$36.90/qt ($1.15/oz)
Ring Free Quarts – 2-4 Each………………….$33.21/qt ($1.03/oz)
Ring Free Quarts – 5-11 Each………………...$31.98/qt ($ .99/oz)
Ring Free Quarts – Case (12 quarts)…………..$29.99/qt ($ .93/oz)
ADD UPS GROUND SHIPPING CHARGES
(to locations in the contiguous United States)
(Additional shipping charges apply to Alaska and Hawaii locations)
1-6 12oz Bottles + ………….. $ 9.95
6-11 12oz Bottles + ………… $12.95
12oz Bottles Case + ……….. $13.15
1 Quart + ……………………. $10.50
2-4 Quarts + ………………... $12.50
5-11 Quarts + ………………. $17.50
Quarts Case + ……………… $19.95
How do these numbers look?
Ring Free 12oz Bottles – Each………..………$14.69/pt ($1.22/oz)
Ring Free 12oz Bottles – Each (Case of 12)…..$13.79/pt ($1.14/oz –
$165.48/case)
Ring Free Quarts – 1 Each…………………….$36.90/qt ($1.15/oz)
Ring Free Quarts – 2-4 Each………………….$33.21/qt ($1.03/oz)
Ring Free Quarts – 5-11 Each………………...$31.98/qt ($ .99/oz)
Ring Free Quarts – Case (12 quarts)…………..$29.99/qt ($ .93/oz)
ADD UPS GROUND SHIPPING CHARGES
(to locations in the contiguous United States)
(Additional shipping charges apply to Alaska and Hawaii locations)
1-6 12oz Bottles + ………….. $ 9.95
6-11 12oz Bottles + ………… $12.95
12oz Bottles Case + ……….. $13.15
1 Quart + ……………………. $10.50
2-4 Quarts + ………………... $12.50
5-11 Quarts + ………………. $17.50
Quarts Case + ……………… $19.95
cbigma
Well-known member
Porkchunker":1atqsyb2 said:
I would also vote for RingFree. Stonebuster fed my OX66 a diet of Ringfree for four seasons before I got her, and she's had it ever since.
I personally wouldn't want to use anything else at this point, especially with the Brew-ha over ethanol and it's potential impacts going on right now. I wouldn't want to change any variables in the fuel soup. You know there are a million Yammies out there using RingFree (as a Yamaha product), and if there are any long-term issues, they would have figured them out by now.
Macfern":6l1jeoql said:
Absolutely.
1oz of Ringfree per 10 gallons of gas.
Don't stress on the amount though. If it happens to be 2oz per 10 gallons, you won't hurt a thing.
It's not an absolute ratio.You might want to hold on to that Star Tron.. its definitely not a replacement for Ring Free, and it clearly states in their documentation that it "is not effected by and does not effect any fuel treatment that may already be in use. There is no possibility of chemical reaction"
I bought a couple of bottles to have on hand as I make the transition from last year's MTBE gas to this year's Ethanol. My plan is to run the tank down as low as possible, and fill up with Ethanol fuel w/ Startron to help deal with the transition. I've heard a few scattered reports on Startron working to help prevent Ethanol related problems, and I believe it has been used for several years successfully overseas under a different trade name.
More text from the Startron docs:
"Treating Water in Fuel: As mentioned before water can wind up in your gas or diesel fuel as a result of condensation in the tank. Because water is heavier than fuel, it sinks to the bottom of the tank and forms a distinct water layer. The fuel pick up tube is located at the bottom of the tank so, once this happens, water is supplied to your fuel pump. Obviously the engine can not burn water; soon it starts to stutter and eventually stops running. Additionally, water is corrosive so it deteriorates tank walls and metals in the fuel delivery system. Then enzymes in Startron prevent the water molecules that are in fuel from combining and forming a distinct water layer. Water is reduced to sub-micron size particles that cannot cause corrosion and are safely burned during normal combustion."
Just food for thought..
-- Tom
I bought a couple of bottles to have on hand as I make the transition from last year's MTBE gas to this year's Ethanol. My plan is to run the tank down as low as possible, and fill up with Ethanol fuel w/ Startron to help deal with the transition. I've heard a few scattered reports on Startron working to help prevent Ethanol related problems, and I believe it has been used for several years successfully overseas under a different trade name.
More text from the Startron docs:
"Treating Water in Fuel: As mentioned before water can wind up in your gas or diesel fuel as a result of condensation in the tank. Because water is heavier than fuel, it sinks to the bottom of the tank and forms a distinct water layer. The fuel pick up tube is located at the bottom of the tank so, once this happens, water is supplied to your fuel pump. Obviously the engine can not burn water; soon it starts to stutter and eventually stops running. Additionally, water is corrosive so it deteriorates tank walls and metals in the fuel delivery system. Then enzymes in Startron prevent the water molecules that are in fuel from combining and forming a distinct water layer. Water is reduced to sub-micron size particles that cannot cause corrosion and are safely burned during normal combustion."
Just food for thought..
-- Tom
So based on what TomS and everyone else said, would it be a good idea to just start adding both the ring free and the Star Tron every time I fill up, say an ounce+- of each per 10 gallons - any thoughts on that.
esfishdoc
Well-known member
I'm no expert..... but I read..... most of what everyone else is reading on several forums..... Here is my take on what you should do.
Make sure you have a Racor 10 micron filter with a water separator bowl and check often for water.
Get Ringfree.... follow the instructions on the bottle.... consider a "shock treatment"..... if you do that..... and I guess I would since the engine may have never seen ringfree..... change the plugs after the shock.... then use ringfree at one ounce per ten gallons forever and ever and never think about the cost. just do it.
The only other thing I use is Stabil over the winter.
Until Yamaha comes out with a stance on other products that should be used I'll stick with that.
Great engine by the way.
Richard
Make sure you have a Racor 10 micron filter with a water separator bowl and check often for water.
Get Ringfree.... follow the instructions on the bottle.... consider a "shock treatment"..... if you do that..... and I guess I would since the engine may have never seen ringfree..... change the plugs after the shock.... then use ringfree at one ounce per ten gallons forever and ever and never think about the cost. just do it.
The only other thing I use is Stabil over the winter.
Until Yamaha comes out with a stance on other products that should be used I'll stick with that.
Great engine by the way.
Richard
Chop~Chop
Well-known member
I'm thinking use of Star Tron is a good idea, especially for a tank that has yet to see it's first dose E10? Regardless, maybe it should be used every 3rd-5th fill-up of 50-80 gal.?
That way one could eliminate (minimize) water that may be present, thus lessening likelihood of phase separation. But, as usual try to keep tank full throughout the season and keep "Ringing Free".
In my case, I know I have some excess tanked moisture because I paid someone to lay up my boat last year (never again). The puking fuel vent fooled them into leaving ~30/126 gal. low :x
I stumbled across a product from MDR, "Water Zorb"; any thoughts on it?
That way one could eliminate (minimize) water that may be present, thus lessening likelihood of phase separation. But, as usual try to keep tank full throughout the season and keep "Ringing Free".
In my case, I know I have some excess tanked moisture because I paid someone to lay up my boat last year (never again). The puking fuel vent fooled them into leaving ~30/126 gal. low :x
I stumbled across a product from MDR, "Water Zorb"; any thoughts on it?
