Tab Size Help on 2019 23 DV

[MMI]

I am underwhelmed by the 12"x12" tabs that came with my 2019 CC 2300 DV and would like to change them out this winter. I have moved the F300 Yam up two holes and have a stern lifting Merc Rev 4 17P prop. I frequently run out of tab and the nose doesn't go down like I would like it to. It is especially bad when loaded for fishing as the stern fishbox is full of ice, transom live well full and 3-4 adults with gear all behind the console. I have seen another local with a 2000 era hull that has 18" wide, 14" long Lenco's he told me he could just about put the nose underwater. I have heard that it is better to have longer tabs than wider. Any input or disucssion would be helpful. I was thinking of Lenco HD Performace Trim Tab 18"L x 14"W #15044-101.
https://www.lencomarine.com/en/p/15044-101/Heavy-Duty-HD-Permance-Trim-Tab

 

[warthog5]

For sure on that Hull 18in wide.....A 14in Cord? Gonna have to look that up...Never heard of that size.


I do see a 19 X 14 Dual ram unit......That way overkill! Part # 15046-101

A 18 X 12 will be More than enough.......And If it was mine.....On a 23ft hull I'd go 18 X 9.

 

[GoodChance]

I think I would try to move some weight forward....... all Parker boats behave poorly with weight behind the leaning post. Try to move your ice box up front and you might find that you don't need to change the trim tabs at all.

As you can see, I built this 250qt cooler to address the exact problems you are now having.

 

[MMI]

For sure on that Hull 18in wide.....A 14in Cord? Gonna have to look that up...Never heard of that size

I think he had the 12”x18” 15018-101


I do see a 19 X 14 Dual ram unit......That way overkill! Part # 15046-101

A 18 X 12 will be More than enough.......And If it was mine.....On a 23ft hull I'd go 18 X 9.

I’m looking at the single actuated 15044-101 18”x14”.

 

[warthog5]

Thats a LOT of tab sticking out there...Perfect for swimmers to get cut on and think it's a boarding step.

Here is the idea......If you have sat a 12 X 12....It will take more input IE More down angle......and more drag....
This is why we run and it's been proven a wider tab and less cord.....You get the same effect's......with less input....Less input =less drag.......Less Drag = better fuel millage.



But here is another question.......Does the boat have pockets in the hull where the factory placed the tabs?.......IE: Are the factory tabs recessed into the hull?

 

[MMI]

The tabs just hang off the end of the boat and are underneath the 3' bracket.

 

[grouperjim]

18" tab width is the widest you want to go on a 23dvcc. Wider can dirty up the water at the prop. Typically a 12x18 is the upgrade. That said, using tab to get the bow down instead of adjusting weight and balance is not a good idea as it will kill fuel economy and performance. Get that ice out of your transom box. Get yourself the biggest cooler that fits fwd of the fwd console seat and put your weight/ice there. I carry 160-200# of ice there. The factory insulated transom box is good for bait, buckets, bulky stuff etc. and or as a kill box before the fish get put on ice in the fwd cooler.

FWIW I have run every Parker with permatrims. Never use stock tabs unless to correct a lean port/starboard. Adjusting engine trim/permatrim does it all and without killing performance.

 

[MMI]

Thanks. What about tabs that are 14” wide, 18” long? I agree about trying to redistribute weight. Are front v seats insulated? I put d gaskets around them to seal them up. If not, I may need to spray foam around them to hold ice.

 

[grouperjim]

No, long is not good. 12Lx18W. If you want to do this, don't bubba your new boat. The actuators need to be moved inboard so they are centered on the new blade with the outside edge of the new and old blade maintaining the exact same position on the transom.

Changing out the trim tabs properly is not the easiest thing to do. Blades and actuators need to be positioned precisely as well as properly sealed to prevent water intrusion into the transom core.

I would suggest you do simple things first like getting your fuel load down to about 80-100 gals and then experiment by putting 3-4 well filled sandbags equally distributed in your forward storage boxes. Get any heavy stuff out of back of the boat and run it. This will simulate having a fwd cooler and give you an idea of handling changes. The fwd storage boxes are not designed to hold fish.

Look at Goodchance's 23 dvcc/300. He has got that boat dialed in perfectly. I have fished on it.

 

[GoodChance]

As Jim said ^^^^^^^, move your weight forward. The trim tabs only need to be used to make small adjustments as people and weight moves laterally (port to starboard and vise versa) to keep a level running attitude. Other than small adjustments, I never use the trim tabs on my 23DVCC.

If your DVCC has the forward seating, then "yes" you can use them to hold fish. They are about 160 quarts each but they aren't terribly well insulated. If you are fishing north of, say Long Island where it doesn't get too hot and the water is relatively cool as compared to Florida, then you might be fine by throwing 100lb of ice into each seat/hold. For me, I had to insulate the seats/holds by drilling a 2" hole forward of the seat/hold and pour 2-part expanding foam into the empty space between the fiberglass mold of the hold and the floor of the boat. It took about 1 gallon of mixed foam to fill the void.

And as you have also seen, you can put a cooler forward of the console in front of the console seat.

As Jim said, don't use that fish box located in front of the motor for anything other than small gear (ropes, gaff, maybe some fishing tackle)

You shouldn't need to use your trim tabs at all. And install a Permatrim if you continue to have problems planing or maintaining a level running attitude. When I ran a F250 3.3l Yamaha on the 23DVCC, I felt the Permatrim made a noticeable difference ..... a real improvement. But now that I've installed a F300 4.2l, I don't feel that Permatrim made much of a noticeable difference.

There's also a huge storage area under the deck, in front of the console that you can put lots and lots of stuff into (weight)

 

[kellyw1030]

Thats a LOT of tab sticking out there...Perfect for swimmers to get cut on and think it's a boarding step.

Here is the idea......If you have sat a 12 X 12....It will take more input IE More down angle......and more drag....
This is why we run and it's been proven a wider tab and less cord.....You get the same effect's......with less input....Less input =less drag.......Less Drag = better fuel millage.



But here is another question.......Does the boat have pockets in the hull where the factory placed the tabs?.......IE: Are the factory tabs recessed into the hull?

Newer parkers are recessed into hull..

 

[grouperjim]

23 se tabs are recessed. 23 DVCC not recessed.

 

[mistahlee]

I think I would try to move some weight forward....... all Parker boats behave poorly with weight behind the leaning post. Try to move your ice box up front and you might find that you don't need to change the trim tabs at all.

As you can see, I built this 250qt cooler to address the exact problems you are now having.

This is my solution. It's a stock size, about 155 quarts, and helps trim a lot. But I'd like to have more capacity. Who fabricated yours, GoodChance?

 

[GoodChance]

I built it myself.

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/982033-building-custom-sized-cooler.html

 

[pelagic2530]

This is my solution. It's a stock size, about 155 quarts, and helps trim a lot. But I'd like to have more capacity. Who fabricated yours, GoodChance?

View attachment 25562

mistahlee, how do you like that tiedown system? I was contemplating using something similar but am worried about it being a toe-stubber when the cooler isn't there. Any thoughts?

Sorry to hijack the thread but might be relevant to others that want to try this idea.

 

[captcooper]

Running same Yamaha F300 on Armstrong behind my 2003 2300DV with forward seating. Same prop and same mounting height.
When I rigged the F300 and rewired boat, I moved 2 group 31 batteries and switches to center console. The boat was no longer bow light and was transformed. Also put 12x18 tab plates on at the same time and these are plenty of tab regardless of load. Transom box full of ice, 155 gal fuel and 6 people no problem. Normally only 4 and performance is outstanding.
Not sure if you have room in your console but reducing the moment arm of those batteries is a big deal! The lighter motor (repowered from 2003 F225) helped my boat about the same as moving batteries forward.

 

[MMI]

I’m picking up a bucket of used tire lead this week and was going to play with putting some weight in the bow. Cooper 12x18 tabs are 12” chord x 18” span?

 

[grouperjim]

......... I moved 2 group 31 batteries and switches to center console.

Nice. Sounds like you "doubled" the benefit of the weight relocation by not only adding weight where needed but also subtracting it on the other end.

FWIW I'm a fairly sure that in 2003 the gas tank was a little further aft. Parker moved it fwd a few inches in 2006.

 

[grouperjim]

This is my solution. It's a stock size, about 155 quarts, and helps trim a lot. But I'd like to have more capacity. Who fabricated yours, GoodChance?

View attachment 25562

Very nice. Tough to find fwd seating delete. I ended up doing it myself and adding a 210 qt up there. Also doubles as a seat.

 

[mistahlee]

mistahlee, how do you like that tiedown system? I was contemplating using something similar but am worried about it being a toe-stubber when the cooler isn't there. Any thoughts?

Sorry to hijack the thread but might be relevant to others that want to try this idea.

pelagic2530, I have no issues with the tie down system. But then I remove the cooler only to scrub the deck. By the way, Frigid Rigid also offers an apparently sturdier turnbuckle system, with a deck attachment fixture that has a higher profile still. But when they told me, candidly, they're not happy with the way it has held up in use, I didn't consider it further.