Towing Help

[gregd123]

I recently towed a 2520 cross country on tandem axle trailer with surge brakes with a F150 rental truck with the V8. Towed fine but the anti-sway component of the Towing Mode saved my bacon a couple times when trucks blew by me (I kept it around 65 and speed limit was up to 80 in some places) creating a sucking then pushing effect. The instant it got squirrely, the anti-sway kicked in, slowed the truck down, and the sway went away like magic .

If you are loading the deck up with tanks, I would definitely test ride both the 2320 and 2520. Way more deck space on the 2520 and towing concerns would be at the bottom of my list for pro and cons on the two models. For me in California, the permit issue is really a non-issue. Annual permits are available for a low cost and if I were towing it more than the couple miles to the ramp, I would consider it although I have never heard of anyone getting a ticket for no permit and I researched this issue before I bought the 2520. One thread I read the guy said he was pulled over for a trailer light or some other reason (can't remember) and was never asked for a permit. Of course I just jinxed myself and will probably get a ticket next time I tow ....

 

[dcunniff]

Hello, I replied before and most people would pick the lighter truck, and maybe the smaller boat. So if I can indulge with a few comments, repeats and finish with a funny story. I have not towed as long or as far as many. I have owned a Ford truck since about 1988. But anything that can go wrong may happen.

Decisions too often come down to money and space, and what you do with the truck when not towing. A bigger truck burns more fuel all the time. A bigger boat takes up more storage space.

I had an old 22' aft cabin on a trailer with no brakes. I pulled it a couple of years with an F-150. As others have said, the sudden stop is no fun. It happened too many times for me, I barely stopped a couple times where I would have plowed into people. I pulled a 23' sailboat too, the same with also no brakes though it was lighter.

With the 2530 in 1997 I immediately jumped to a 250, had two with V-10's. There were still scary times. First new trailer had tandem drum brakes, they are hard to keep tip top. As soon as they are fixed they start deteriorating. Same boat, I replaced the trailer almost 11 years ago for a heavier trailer with tandem disc brakes. Can still be an issue, especially when there is a traffic jam on a highway that was not anticipated. I literally towed 1,100 miles with a new trailer and the brakes failed half way. Had to drive a few hours on state roads to get a repair on a Saturday. This was when I also had a 350 diesel. In big mountains in hot weather it was not much better than an 18 wheeler going uphill sometimes!

If you can afford and handle it, I would go with the bigger boat for all that gear. The boat may feel like a barge at times with all that weight and people. Keep an eye on scuppers. I have taken on water drift fishing with big guys all hanging near the transom. Even a couple times at a dock with fatties on the back end for fireworks and parties, where too many go to one side and sink the scupper.

So here is a big truck story and why would I tow in the snow?! I literally Sunday took my boat with a 2 year old F-250 crew cab out of storage to drop it off at my boat mechanic to try to get him to do a repair before he gets busy. He has a straight back in off a side road to his first shed. He has a big 180 that comes parallel to the driveway, grass and dirt where the whole space is not paved. He stored in and out boats there. There was about 6" of accumulated snow since mid-December with some melt and a couple inches of fresh that morning. I thought i would take an easy way on the 180, to not tie up the side road backing in. I got 80% around, hit ice, snow drift ice. Fully stuck. Backed up to about 50%, took me at least a half hour and now all stuck. I had sold my diesel F-350 to my boat mechanic. He came, pulled me out for about 15' feet so I could get some traction and got me through the ice drift! Poor plan on my part and got caught in bad snow/ice.

I keep buying 250's, one 350, four in total with this 2530. A lot of heavy truck driving just people around virtually all the time!!

 

[NoMerci]

I pull a 2002 2510 with a Tacoma. The boat tare weight with 1/2 fuel and all fishing equipment, 4 riggers, etc., is 7180 lbs. The total combination weight with truck and trailer is 13420 lbs. It pulls and stops like one would expect. If I got weighed at a DOT check I would get a ticket....over weight on gross, rear axle, permitted, and the tire rating. So I don’t plan on going far with this setup!

 

[Parker541]

I pull a 2002 2510 with a Tacoma. The boat tare weight with 1/2 fuel and all fishing equipment, 4 riggers, etc., is 7180 lbs. The total combination weight with truck and trailer is 13420 lbs. It pulls and stops like one would expect. If I got weighed at a DOT check I would get a ticket....over weight on gross, rear axle, permitted, and the tire rating. So I don’t plan on going far with this setup!

I sold my 2020 Tacoma before i came on this deployment, i have a 17’ CC it’s light and I’ve towed it all around Florida. I have noticed that the braking on it was not the best, blaming it on the drum brakes, and would be worried about the long hauls i plan to do down to Venice and around Florida.

 

[Antidote]

I recently towed a 2520 cross country on tandem axle trailer with surge brakes with a F150 rental truck with the V8. Towed fine but the anti-sway component of the Towing Mode saved my bacon a couple times when trucks blew by me (I kept it around 65 and speed limit was up to 80 in some places) creating a sucking then pushing effect. The instant it got squirrely, the anti-sway kicked in, slowed the truck down, and the sway went away like magic .

If you are loading the deck up with tanks, I would definitely test ride both the 2320 and 2520. Way more deck space on the 2520 and towing concerns would be at the bottom of my list for pro and cons on the two models. For me in California, the permit issue is really a non-issue. Annual permits are available for a low cost and if I were towing it more than the couple miles to the ramp, I would consider it although I have never heard of anyone getting a ticket for no permit and I researched this issue before I bought the 2520. One thread I read the guy said he was pulled over for a trailer light or some other reason (can't remember) and was never asked for a permit. Of course I just jinxed myself and will probably get a ticket next time I tow ....

The biggest problem would be a wreck. Then all the paperwork has to come out. If you do get ticketed for not having the permit the insurance company will see it and have a reason not to pay even if you weren't at fault in the wreck.

 

[Parker541]

I am currently looking at an F250 6.0 Powerstroke, will be doing a full bulletproofing upon purchase its a 2005 with 180k miles for 10k, I think it would be a great rig for the boat and able to handle it all.

Any input?

Any more pictures of some scuba setups in 2320 or 2520s?

Thanks Gents!

 

[army]

I owned a 2004 F350 King Ranch 6.0 bought new at 60,000 miles the engine puked. Ford said cause was a B&M Trans cooler. Head Bolts stretched (unique to that engine) refused coverage. Googled info on 6.0 found 65000 hits about engine problems. My attorney said we would win but his cost would be about 30k because of fords attorneys and history. At my cost I replaced engine drove another 30,000 miles again blew engine. Repaired engine total out of pocket $31,000.
Sold truck with full disclosure to mechanic. Be wary of the 6 liters much has been said and many mods invented. Ford left IH engines after that one

 

[GotChrist?]

I am currently looking at an F250 6.0 Powerstroke, will be doing a full bulletproofing upon purchase its a 2005 with 180k miles for 10k, I think it would be a great rig for the boat and able to handle it all.

Any input?

Any more pictures of some scuba setups in 2320 or 2520s?

Thanks Gents!

Most people ran from those. A friend who is a mech and Ford loyal said to run unless it's already bullet proofed and you can buy it low miles for only a few grand. So at 180k miles and not bulletproofed you're walking on thin ice. It's probably getting ready to go south which is why its being sold.

A buddy has an 04 with that engine and it's already been gone thru. He's had a few issues with it that are troublesome and hard to find. He now only uses it for towing in his boat business as he knows daily driving is going to leave him stranded without a truck. I think he has 240k on it. He knows it's near time to buy knew. He's putting it off for as long as possible.

 

[dcunniff]

Have a couple year old F-250 gas. Last was a 2005 F-350 6.0 diesel, sold it with 130,00 or so to a friend. Bullet proofing is good. I added a bypass coolant filter, many do that. I always added Power Service on a fill up. The amount of bullet proofing can add up. If you get one and leave it stock do not chip it. Was the cause of many problems for owners.

 

[Parker541]

Have a couple year old F-250 gas. Last was a 2005 F-350 6.0 diesel, sold it with 130,00 or so to a friend. Bullet proofing is good. I added a bypass coolant filter, many do that. I always added Power Service on a fill up. The amount of bullet proofing can add up. If you get one and leave it stock do not chip it. Was the cause of many problems for owners.

So youre saying if I spend the 8-10K to bulletproof completely and do the chipping I should still be careful? May start looking to another avenue and move away from the 6.0 as I have heard not the best things. Better older motors to consider?

 

[Parker541]

Most people ran from those. A friend who is a mech and Ford loyal said to run unless it's already bullet proofed and you can buy it low miles for only a few grand. So at 180k miles and not bulletproofed you're walking on thin ice. It's probably getting ready to go south which is why its being sold.

A buddy has an 04 with that engine and it's already been gone thru. He's had a few issues with it that are troublesome and hard to find. He now only uses it for towing in his boat business as he knows daily driving is going to leave him stranded without a truck. I think he has 240k on it. He knows it's near time to buy knew. He's putting it off for as long as possible.

I have definitely seen many different takes on it, 180k is a bit over what I want to go for, the truck I am buying is from a buddy who is a mechanic and takes care of his stuff. BUUUTT "emphasize here" he has not done what I have seen to be a must from any forum or discussion ie. the oil coolany bypass or even the EGR upgrade/ delete. So it is very stock, it also has nothing really done to it so I may be steering clear of this one, like I asked the other guy any 250 models or equivilant you can think of? Older possibly with some miles that could be turned into a 400K truck?

 

[Mpellet]

Older possibly with some miles that could be turned into a 400K truck?

What often gets overlooked when you’re going long with a vehicle is everything else involved with vehicle beyond the drive line. I own a couple of old timers since new that I keep running. With time and miles you’ve gotta be prepared to deal with things that most vehicle owners overlook.

A few non engine/ transmission items that come to mind. Door latches, locks and hinges, door lock actuators, window motors and regulators, windshield leaks resulting in electrical gremlins such as shorting out the G.E.M., brake lines, AC systems (big). The actuator that controls heat/cold of the ventilation system and where air is delivered as in foot, panel, defrost etc, LED and other dash board displays burning out, the multifunction tree switches on the steering column, I could go on and on and on.

I like my old trucks but there is a lot more to keeping a modern vehicle running long term then just the engine and tranny.

A 1970 F150 with a 4 speed manual and rubber floor mats and an AM radio maybe not so much but anything built in the 1990s or beyond has a lot of gadgets that typically don’t give too many folks issues but if you keep the vehicle for a lot of years and a lot of miles, you’ll learn eventually just about everything will wear out and need attention.

Most of this “stuff” can be fixed at home if you’re willing to hunt youtube for fixes and junkyards for parts but if you’re paying someone to fix this stuff you’ll be unpleasantly surprised how fast the cost of owning that old truck can add up.

 

[dcunniff]

Parker451, sorry for the delay. Many, many guys did the bullet proofing and ran chips without issue. Just avoid over-boost. The problem was the opposite, chipping a factory engine causing over-heating and stretching of head bolts. There are many things to pay attention to on the 6.0 including having good batteries as flow control injection module (FCIM) needs 48V stepped up and bad batteries or alternator would ruin the FCIM.

The delete kit is something that has to be decided person by person, state by state as some states do not test diesels. If not deleted one key was to run good fuel and additive to manage carbon buildup.

You can go on Ford, Chevy, Ram forums and read about problems with newer engines too,6.0 like a couple of others was a fill-in motor design and pollution standards changed. 6.0 does not need diesel exhaust fluid.

If you can live with the cost and maintenance of a diesel and are truly going to haul loaded a lot, can be good otherwise get a new gas engine that has plenty of torque now.

 

[lougio]

A few years back I found a '03 2520 in Florida. I'm in Ca and we had to act quickly at the price this fella was asking. I was going to worry about a tow vehicle later as my boat partner had an old Chevy 2500 that could get the job done. I had a 4Runner at the time. Long story short is we got the boat for a great deal and I had to settle on a '12 5.3l Silverado 1500 crewcab 4x4 with 9500# rated towing. Not the best tow vehicle but capable and 99% of our towing is 15mi to the ramp. The trailer from Fla had non-operable brakes. Until we got stainless disc brakes it was a challenge. No matter how much space you gave yourself somebody would jump in front of you on the freeway and hit he brakes. Got the trailer brakes done right and it was a huge improvement. I would like to move up to 3/4 ton but a repower is at the top of the list at the moment.