Trolling motor for 1801?

[reellucky18]

One thing to be cautious about, along the same lines of using a motor kill switch or one of the new electronic proximity-sensing kill switches to stop the vessel’s engine if you fall overboard. Your trolling motor has the ability to either propel your boat (sometimes at a respectable speed) or keep it stationary in a moving current. If you were to fall overboard while using the trolling motor to move around, or fall into a current that your TM is stemming, you run the risk of the boat moving away from you/you moving away from the boat. It’s a much slower speed than when using the outboard, but even catching up to a boat that’s only moving 2kts is much harder than you’d think it would be. Most people aren’t going to be able to swim at 2kts for any significant amount of time, especially wearing heavy winter fishing gear, with an inflated life vest, in cold water, etc. If the remote is around your neck, you can at least stop the motor so that the boat will drift with you in the current; you might even be able to steer it back to come pick you up! If it’s sitting on the console, however, you’re not going to have that option.

I get not liking it around your neck, but having it in a pocket, or clipped to your life vest, might not be a bad idea.

Excellent point! Hopefully FellMarine can find a way to integrate their solution for this situation. I already have the 1stMate for my outboard so having it for the trolling motor would be key!

 

[Reel Rebel]

Check Etsy...I think the company name is 3dfouryou...or something like that. $22 and it looks pretty good.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/140991...54fe84abae37dcf598ae4ee11a9d6b6863:1409912122

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

Thanks for that...I guess when I was looking for one last year I should have just started here!

 

[GaryS]

I'm pretty sure I'll be getting the Riptide Ulterra, 24V, 80lb, 60" shaft with a quick disconnect. I know some knowledgeable people on here recommended against it but further research shows most of those issues have been resolved and I have to take my physical condition in to account. The new boat will have one batt in the rear and I know I'll need at least 2 more for the TM and I should maybe also add a house batt. If I end up with 4 batts should I leave the start in the back and put the other 2 or 3 in the console or should I aim to get all of them in the console? I may need to find out when Mr Pellagic is in DE to discuss this over a beer.

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

You won't regret the Ulterra, I can't see myself without it now. I've got 2 TM batteries in the console and 2 in the back and that works fine. Just keep the entire TM wiring separate from everything else, disconnect it when charging and you should be fine. Lots of help on here when you get at it.

 

[warthog5]

I've got 2 TM batteries in the console and 2 in the back and that works fine. Just keep the entire TM wiring separate from everything else, disconnect it when charging and you should be fine.

 

[pelagic2530]

I'm pretty sure I'll be getting the Riptide Ulterra, 24V, 80lb, 60" shaft with a quick disconnect. I know some knowledgeable people on here recommended against it but further research shows most of those issues have been resolved and I have to take my physical condition in to account. The new boat will have one batt in the rear and I know I'll need at least 2 more for the TM and I should maybe also add a house batt. If I end up with 4 batts should I leave the start in the back and put the other 2 or 3 in the console or should I aim to get all of them in the console? I may need to find out when Mr Pellagic is in DE to discuss this over a beer.

I’ll be around in the next few weeks. Happy to meet up and discuss the project with you.