Waterpump maintenace

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evetsmd

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Feb 20, 2008
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Location
Rock Hall, MD
2005 Yamaha 4 stroke 225hp.......I still have my original water pump.

What does everyone think about replacing the pump before the season starts?

From what I read here, been thinking it's a project that should be done periodically.....rather than wait for failure.

Boating is all in the upper Chesapeake.

Thanks

Steve
 
While I'm of the opine that the rubber or syn rubber that the impellers are made of can last through many, many seasons [I've seen known 7-year old ones still look great!], this truly is the #1 service item that is strictly PREVENTIVE maintenance at its best!

I'd opine, depending on use, have it done with FULL waterpump service including the thermostats [NEVEr just replace the impeller! IMHO], every 2-years ... dropping it to annual basis if you run in heavy falts, sand and/or silty conditions and do mega hours each year, and maybe push it out to 3-years if your annual use isn't too much.

To me, the biggest reason to do so is to ENSURE one can take the lower unit and all bolts to-be-removed APART ... as if/when you get a frozen bolt ... you just doubled or tripled :shock: the co$t of your service bill! Clean ALL of the bolts and dip into gasket sealing compound before re-installation and torqueing.

Buy the OEM factory service manual, a torque wrench, and the needed grease and lubes, all for ~$120 or so ... and then do it for the price of the rebuild kit itself ($60 to more, we know Yam gouges for parts co$ts). FWIW, I can do the full service on a V6 Ob is less than an hour myself, though it does help to have a 2nd person for the re-install, due to lining up the water tubes et al, while holding the heavy LU.
 
Thanks to everyone.....great replies....

It looks like the right job to get done before this years launch
 
Rather than grease or gasket sealing compound, I use Anti-Seize. Its got zinc and copper dust in it, and I've never had a bolt installed with it seize on me. I tell ya, I wish the factory used the stuff on things like LU bolts, oil drain/fill plugs, and thermostat bolts.

Its $4 a can at your local AutoZone, and works great. Just bewarned, it likes to get on your hands (and everything else in sight)...

We do our waterpumps every 2 years, and we put around 1000 hours/yr on our outboards. If we let them go 3, the impellers come out missing a vane or two, so the rule is 2 years now.

AND, amen on changing the entire kit, not just the impeller. The half-moon key that holds the impeller also needs anti-seize.
 
Rather than grease or gasket sealing compound, I use use Anti-Seize. Its got zinc and copper dust in it ...

In the interest of full disclosure, all 3 OEM factory service manuals I have on hand (Nissan, OMC, and Yamaha) all specify 'gasket sealing compound, as you want to seal the threads and prevent saltwater getting in. This compound will also prevent the bolts from seizing, especially a SS bolt into aluminum threads.

Glad it seems to have worked for you so far, but I have seen it fail. Also note that as per LocTite and other solvent makers, only copper-free products should be used on stainless steels in the marine environment, as copper has a galvanic reaction in the presence of SS.

Plus, both zinc and copper corrode in presence of chlorides. Given all that and I'd never use a zinc or copper-based anti-seize product on a boat. I used to ;) ... but I had it fail and the parts could not be removed. Zero problems since switching to what the OB makers specify.
 
I've had gasket sealant fail on me several times, especially when the bolts were tightened or removed, and new compound not applied. I just checked my anti-seize, its copper-free. They DO make copper based stuff, but I'll agree its not the right material in seawater.
 
I just decided before I splashed to tell mechanic to change the water pump and the thermostats because this was going to be the fourth season.I really need to start doing this stuff myself. The bill was around 450 for parts and labor.
 
Lock-tite makes a marine anti-sieze that is metal free,it can be found at grainger.
 
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