Wet foam

[12Parker2320]

Thanks

 

[GaryS]

Bilge blowers are generally designed to blow air in rather than suck out so that if there are flammable fumes they will get pushed out and not sucked through a fan motor which may have sparks.

 

[Blueghost93]

Well as I stated before the boat bilhe had filled up with fresh rainwater and spilled over the top into the fuel tank area. I had a fan going for a few days and seem to dry it up but now that the boat has been transported down for the new engine finally all the up and down on the hills must have shifted water around. I decided to drill a hole at the very bottom of the battery compartment and to my surprise it started gushing water which means the entire area around the tank is filled with freshwater

Now what to do…

My first thought is to park it when they are done with the bow as high as I can get it and leave the fans running with the hole open and try to get most of it out

 

[Bodick93]

Man if you have any type other than the "cap" type, you may want to replace them with the cap type. Mine is a '19 and they came on it.
They naturally shed water and have a raised lip that help prevent water intrusion. I also lifeseal mine on upon closure. Just as easy to remove and the lifeseal pretty much peels off in one piece. These guys:

 

[12Parker2320]

Man if you have any type other than the "cap" type, you may want to replace them with the cap type. Mine is a '19 and they came on it.
They naturally shed water and have a raised lip that help prevent water intrusion. I also lifeseal mine on upon closure. Just as easy to remove and the lifeseal pretty much peels off in one piece. These guys:

View attachment 36939View attachment 36940View attachment 36941

Those are the same ones I had on my 2012 2320. If you keep sealing them you may not have an issue. The o rings certainly do fail over time and the plates get deformed from being stepped on. Those pie plates are the Achilles heal of that coffin box. The screw down ones I installed are more flush to the deck and the plate is rigid. Think I might put down a bead of silicone or life seal as well though just for added protection. So far they have been water tight

 

[Blueghost93]

Picked up some 6” ones at the marine exchange today. Looks like I gotta carve the hole out another 1/4” for them to fit but they should be a tight seal.

See the pic of the factory ones

 

[Bodick93]

Those are the same ones I had on my 2012 2320. If you keep sealing them you may not have an issue. The o rings certainly do fail over time and the plates get deformed from being stepped on. Those pie plates are the Achilles heal of that coffin box. The screw down ones I installed are more flush to the deck and the plate is rigid. Think I might put down a bead of silicone or life seal as well though just for added protection. So far they have been water tight

Not really. These have a "roof" over the hole, vs a gap that must rely on an "O" ring. That's not a small distinction. In a similar fashion, our battery hatches rely on a seal as well, vs a roof design and mine ALWAYS leaks. It just drips on the batteries vs foam.
Wait, you said "had." Do you no longer have the boat, or those plates?

 

[12Parker2320]

Not really. These have a "roof" over the hole, vs a gap that must rely on an "O" ring. That's not a small distinction. In a similar fashion, our battery hatches rely on a seal as well, vs a roof design and mine ALWAYS leaks. It just drips on the batteries vs foam.
Wait, you said "had." Do you no longer have the boat, or those plates?

Interesting because mine are the exact same part/model number. Are you referring to the the notch that extends further down where the gap is? Curious if they improved the hatch design

 

[Bodick93]

Interesting because mine are the exact same part/model number. Are you referring to the the notch that extends further down where the gap is? Curious if they improved the hatch design

So you are saying the plate in post 25 is this part number? It's a different design. That top plate goes down inside the base. The plates they used on mine in post 24 have an extended lip the covers the entire base. I think it may be better, because on the tank I can access, (combined with the lifeseal) I have never found any water on the tank that originated from above. Thank God that rear hatch is not over the tank. It leaks like crazy, because it relies solely on a seal, vs an overhanging cap and seal.
Sorry man, beat that horse to death.

 

[Blueghost93]

So you are saying the plate in post 25 is this part number? It's a different design. That top plate goes down inside the base. The plates they used on mine in post 24 have an extended lip the covers the entire base. I think it may be better, because on the tank I can access, (combined with the lifeseal) I have never found any water on the tank that originated from above. Thank God that rear hatch is not over the tank. It leaks like crazy, because it relies solely on a seal, vs an overhanging cap and seal.
Sorry man, beat that horse to death

Mine doesn’t have that ridge along the rim like yours. If mine did that would be a lot better design. I’m going to glue in the new ones and then silicone the threads to easy removal but additional seal.

 

[12Parker2320]

So you are saying the plate in post 25 is this part number? It's a different design. That top plate goes down inside the base. The plates they used on mine in post 24 have an extended lip the covers the entire base. I think it may be better, because on the tank I can access, (combined with the lifeseal) I have never found any water on the tank that originated from above. Thank God that rear hatch is not over the tank. It leaks like crazy, because it relies solely on a seal, vs an overhanging cap and seal.
Sorry man, beat that horse to death.

Ya according to your pic it’s the same part/model # M-6AP from Innovative product solutions.there does appear to be some changes in design from you pic. Mine also also has the notch that extends down at the gap

 

[warthog5]

Now I guess another question is how necessary it might be as my boat is kept under a cover and in a garage?

You would benefit the least. Still ducting a fan in is not a Bad idea.

Bildges are dark - Damp and Gloomy. They grow mildew... Keeping them dry is a benefit.

 

[StrayDog]

My Wet Foam Fix
I had a bait tank drain hose split on my 2520xl resulting in gallons of salt water in the “fuel bay” (below deck area between bulkheads and gunwales where fuel tank lives).

I used the same drying techniques as Blueghost93 and more. I added two scuppers as limber holes at the base of the aft bulkhead; one on each side of the factory PVC drain. I used the one inch brass tube type that would normally b place on a transom. After using a hole saw to penetrate the fuel bay’s aft bulkhead I dug out foam to create a void where water could drain from the fuel bay foam and thru the holes I drilled.

Then:
- With the bow raised, so gravity would help,
- Fans added to 2 inspection ports on deck (which added air pressure to help the water move down & migrate aft).
- Wet-vac added to apply suction to the newly drilled drain holes.

After about 2 months of this the water removal slowly dissipated after removing approximately 5+ gallons.

Pictures:
- Brass scuppers
- Holes drilled from aft side of aft bulkhead
- A picture I copied from a “tank replacement post” where someone else added similar drains using PVC. I think PVC is a better way to go.

IMy boat is a 2005 so I’m just trying to buy time before replacing the tank.

 

[Blueghost93]

My Wet Foam Fix
I had a bait tank drain hose split on my 2520xl resulting in gallons of salt water in the “fuel bay” (below deck area between bulkheads and gunwales where fuel tank lives).

I used the same drying techniques as Blueghost93 and more. I added two scuppers as limber holes at the base of the aft bulkhead; one on each side of the factory PVC drain. I used the one inch brass tube type that would normally b place on a transom. After using a hole saw to penetrate the fuel bay’s aft bulkhead I dug out foam to create a void where water could drain from the fuel bay foam and thru the holes I drilled.

Then:
- With the bow raised, so gravity would help,
- Fans added to 2 inspection ports on deck (which added air pressure to help the water move down & migrate aft).
- Wet-vac added to apply suction to the newly drilled drain holes.

After about 2 months of this the water removal slowly dissipated after removing approximately 5+ gallons.

Pictures:
- Brass scuppers
- Holes drilled from aft side of aft bulkhead
- A picture I copied from a “tank replacement post” where someone else added similar drains using PVC. I think PVC is a better way to go.

IMy boat is a 2005 so I’m just trying to buy time before replacing the tank.

Great info! My Parker has the battery shelf above the tube that runs across the bottom of the boat. Do you think I need to drill holes underneath the battery shelf?

Replaced the deck covers and sealed the living s**t out the the hole before placing the outer ring back in.

 

[Bodick93]

Ya according to your pic it’s the same part/model # M-6AP from Innovative product solutions.there does appear to be some changes in design from you pic. Mine also also has the notch that extends down at the gap

Man, I am starting to think the current caps will fit your already installed bases. If your Parker dealer is close, I might tow it by there and ask if you could try one off a boat on the lot...then order two. Plus you could see how the new ones are made while your there. That's always fun.

 

[Blueghost93]

Update. I did some research and it seems as though the PVC pipe from the anchor locker is the lowest point on the boat under the fuel tank. So after drilling a access hole I popped a 3/8” hole into the wall separating the gas tank from the bilge and boom water gushing. Hopefully this fully drains the fuel tank foam and the 90 degree weather will evaporate the rest if I’m lucky

 

[StrayDog]

Update. I did some research and it seems as though the PVC pipe from the anchor locker is the lowest point on the boat under the fuel tank. So after drilling an access hole I popped a 3/8” hole into the wall separating the gas tank from the bilge and boom water gushing. Hopefully this fully drains the fuel tank foam and the 90 degree weather will evaporate the rest if I’m lucky

So the question becomes; where is the water coming from that at is accumulating in the fuel tank bay. You now better understand why I created drain tubes on each side of the PVC as it exits the aft bulkhead of the fuel bay (see picture in my last post).

 

[Blueghost93]

So the question becomes; where is the water coming from that at is accumulating in the fuel tank bay. You now better understand why I created drain tubes on each side of the PVC as it exits the aft bulkhead of the fuel bay (see picture in my last post).

The water is from when the bilge filled with rain water months ago and I had all the pumps and hoses out and drain plug in We had 3 days of crazy rain.

 

[PastTheBarb]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but in my opinion, you will never completely dry it out. When I replaced my gas tank all the foam was saturated. But then I had rotten decks and water everywhere. But my point is once that foam soaks up all that water its not going to release it. I would do everything possible to dry it out but be realistic in your expectations. Im not sure why that foam isnt closed cell like Styrofoam ice chests are made from. The foam I removed laid in my yard in an almost desert climate and never completely dried out.

 

[Blueghost93]

I’m kinda off thinking the same thing except I did a core sample of foam that was soaked from 3” below the top of the tank and it’s now bone dry and powdery. Hoping that means most all of it can dry and give this tank a good number of years to go.

I’m also installing 1” drains into the bilge.