Wheelhouse/doghouse build

[Longislandfish]

Looks great!

Thank you bro, coming from you and your background that means a lot! Hoping my connections are strong enough to support this.

 

[mbaltay]

I posted a reply earlier but do not see it, so you f this is redundant pls disregard.

Whole structure seems pretty solid from what you are saying and demonstrating.

If you are worried or just want peace of mind, then;

Obviously hitting stringers would be ideal, but a fishing expedition at least...

I'd pull out one of the existing screws in a non critical.ocation to see how long it is and to obtain a sense of the pullout strength and if the ply seems solid or rotted. If it's 3/4 marine ply glasses it should be fairly strong and should easily take some hefty screws or lag bolts.

I'd guess it's got adhesive if the connection is solid and it has #10 screws spaced maybe 10 -12 inch apart.

If existing seems like it can take a decent amount of torque before stripping, then one real simple easy way is simply to add a more screws especially front face and corners, if accessible. Keep it in mind that the main weakness likely us not the tensile strength of screws (unless they bend) but rather the pullout in the ply.

Other guys on this forum who pulled console to access fuel tank would know exactly how this is assembled.

Parker used #10 for a reason. If you pull out an old one and find it's pretty solid, then check if the flange of console is thru drilled or not, and just replicate what they did, but more screws. Definitely pilot drill into the ply, but on the smaller diameter side of the published range for pilot drill size for #10. You also could add some good two part epoxy when you torque the screws. If it were me, I'd maybe go to #10 torqs head or up to 1/4 to get hex head just to avoid Philips stripping and make it easy to drive with a drill head. Fender washers help but probably not needed, just use standard washers or lock washers or nothing depending on what Parker used.

I'd get out on water to get a feel for it.

My 2 cents. MB

 

[Longislandfish]

I posted a reply earlier but do not see it, so you f this is redundant pls disregard.

Whole structure seems pretty solid from what you are saying and demonstrating.

If you are worried or just want peace of mind, then;

Obviously hitting stringers would be ideal, but a fishing expedition at least...

I'd pull out one of the existing screws in a non critical.ocation to see how long it is and to obtain a sense of the pullout strength and if the ply seems solid or rotted. If it's 3/4 marine ply glasses it should be fairly strong and should easily take some hefty screws or lag bolts.

I'd guess it's got adhesive if the connection is solid and it has #10 screws spaced maybe 10 -12 inch apart.

If existing seems like it can take a decent amount of torque before stripping, then one real simple easy way is simply to add a more screws especially front face and corners, if accessible. Keep it in mind that the main weakness likely us not the tensile strength of screws (unless they bend) but rather the pullout in the ply.

Other guys on this forum who pulled console to access fuel tank would know exactly how this is assembled.

Parker used #10 for a reason. If you pull out an old one and find it's pretty solid, then check if the flange of console is thru drilled or not, and just replicate what they did, but more screws. Definitely pilot drill into the ply, but on the smaller diameter side of the published range for pilot drill size for #10. You also could add some good two part epoxy when you torque the screws. If it were me, I'd maybe go to #10 torqs head or up to 1/4 to get hex head just to avoid Philips stripping and make it easy to drive with a drill head. Fender washers help but probably not needed, just use standard washers or lock washers or nothing depending on what Parker used.

I'd get out on water to get a feel for it.

My 2 cents. MB

So I went ahead and upsized the connection bolts for 2 reasons, one I was finishing while torquing the 10-24 carriage bolts they were flexing way too much for my liking, and 2) the carriage bolt head diameter from the outside provided little to no surface area like you mentioned to me in the past. I was actually sucking into the outsides more than I wanted.

Went to hardware got 18-8 1/4-20 hex bolts partially threaded with washers under head and lock washers and nuts for behind backing. Took my time overboring the holes and made sure to drill at a slight Down angle to avoid the bolt being to close the console ceiling. Had to again trim the 4 corner bolts down since the bolts are 3.5 inches long and intersect.

After pulling original bolts my hunch was correct, the bolts bent on more than 1, not good especially since I have only shook and pulled and pushed on the top. So going Upto the 1/4 18/8 Stainless was a necessary evil. Part of me is very relieved to have taken an hour to inspect and do the leg work to get the right hardware in. I will be bedding the bottom of the house with some sealant or 4200, haven’t decided.

Will report back

 

[Longislandfish]

Finally got it all done.

Minor delay. Got impatient and decided to try and seal it without an extra set of hands and wound up damaging the corner edge, had to take it down repair and repaint most of it since 2 part polyurethane paints are mostly difficult to repair.

Upsized my hardware, and did all my wiring on the ground which was a win for me.

Got my backing plates polished up and bored out. Got the base bedded in a thick coating of boat life sealant and torqued out my fasteners.

This is not going anywhere without ripping my deck off first. It’s solid as any part of this hull.

For reference I checked out another boat with a similar design and it was half the build strength of this and was flimsy and not backed up at all. His top flex when h hung off the rear.

I can do pull ups without it budging or creaking.

Should last a lifetime. Many coats of glass and paint and built with pride. I have received many compliments from friends and neighbors in the flesh.

Got the grab rails sealant off, wet sanded it up and polished, added my carriage bolts to dress up the holes with some sealant. Ready to fish now

Thanks for following along my journey.

Hope someone else gains something from this.

All the best

 

[Bodick93]

This looks great!
Very nice work, and now you know the nature of all those materials.

 

[Longislandfish]

This looks great!
Very nice work, and now you know the nature of all those materials.

Thank you man.

Indeed I do. 3 months working with fiberglass gives you a great idea of how to use it. Can do any repair now with no issues, plus fabrication options are now endless. Great project, not for everyone but if you stay committed you can achieve great results

 

[Longislandfish]

Finally made it out to give it a thorough test and trails. Here is what I found

Under WOT 34-35 mph which is roughly 99 percent of my speed before this project

Planes out just the same 3600-3700rpm

Handles nearly identical on anchor in a slight to moderate chop and headsea

No change in following sea ride if anything used less tab and seemed to ride softer given the added forward weight

Wind has been cut down to 80-90 percent underway and on anchor, to the point where I stepped out behind the console to check and really was shocked how well it knocked it down

The structure is sound. Not a single creek, rattle, Or vibration. I also upsized the six fasteners for piece of mind inside the console holding the console to deck, 1/4 1 inch dia stainless lags with 1 inch fender washers torqued down by hand. The backing plates created a super strong and confident hold.

Conditions today 10-15knt west wind with incoming tide. Decent following sea and it performed beautifully

This transformed my skiff to a very usable and highly versatile platform, as it was already but more so for foul
Weather fishing on the Long Island sound.

I would do it over in a second.

It looks totally bad ***!

 

[Longislandfish]

This post concludes my build thread. I hope anyone who followed or read through the posts appreciated or enjoyed!

I have taken my 1801 through all the customizations and upgraded that I can do minus, a bracket and closed transom, but I will not be doing that. It’s been a real pleasure to work on the boat and learn all the nuisances and how each upgrade helped make the boat even better. This is without doubt the best 18ft hull ever made. The way I have mine setup is perfect for my style of fishing and boating.


Next project will involve another hull, perhaps bigger o with a bracket and larger beam. Thank you all, if any questions I’m happy to help.

-longislandfish

 

[warthog5]

I noted that "Appendage" hanging off the Port side of your console.

These are Good Horns. Much better looking. The Ongaro are the ones to have.I've installed them on a LOT of boats... Stainless thru and thru.

https://www.iboats.com/shop/ongaro-...MIrraLm--GggMVc-vjBx3QTgu_EAQYBCABEgJRYfD_BwE

 

[tomc585]

Don't have a horn on mine but that looks like a good one.

 

[tomc585]

Wart, Have you used these? Loud enough?

$43 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Ongaro-Mini-Single-Drop-Grill/dp/B00C7MBBBG

 

[warthog5]

Yes..... Had on my Parker, Have one on my SeaArk. Installed one on my sons Carolina Skiff and many others.

 

[Longislandfish]

finally have about 10 or so trips in various locations and conditions. the console is able to support the structure no problem. I have made it out in the atlantic ocean 3 times on calmer days with 2-3ft swells. the boat handles softer, as a result of the added weight, there is no extra rolling or broaching. I have had upto 3 additional people on my boat and all is well. the structure doesnt rattle or shake at all. its built like a tank and adds to the boat, its been very cold and i have my hands, face comfortable now. night and day improvement.

 

[Longislandfish]

Finally received my radar dome bundle with xsv plotter.

It will be mounted on SEAVIEW 5inxh forward learning mount. Completes the job and adds essential tool for offshore nearshore tuna trips this summer. Last things are eprib, plb and some odds and ends. Getting a nice vhf antenna to add uptop and wiring it to the plotter for DCS calling


Here a quick pick of it sitting atop my doghouse

 

[warthog5]

That Seaview mount is Powdercoated. Looks real nice Now.... in 3yrs it will be a Blob of corrosion.

Yes the Stainless ones are more expensive.... But they still look like brand new 5yrs down the road.... and longer.

 

[Rionramkalawan]

The powder coat will last long as long as you apply a good wax and if you rinse with freshwater after use. I removed my front windows and did my rocket launchers in powder coat and lasted years without any sign of corrosion.

 

[Longislandfish]

That Seaview mount is Powdercoated. Looks real nice Now.... in 3yrs it will be a Blob of corrosion.

Yes the Stainless ones are more expensive.... But they still look like brand new 5yrs down the road.... and longer.

We shall see. I see a lot of people with them. Stainless was deff more. Cost benefit for me. The radar was 2500 and the SEAVIEW another 300 so I tried to keep it reasonable

 

[Longislandfish]

The powder coat will last long as long as you apply a good wax and if you rinse with freshwater after use. I removed my front windows and did my rocket launchers in powder coat and lasted years without any sign of corrosion.

Woodys wax or collinite. I have powder coated trolling motor steering box. Rinse it and keep it coated

 

[warthog5]

It's the fasteners...... The fasteners go in the holes and get turned. This peels the powdercoating off...... Now you have stainless to alum contact down in a hole.

It's the same with Fuel filter mounts. The Powdercoated alum ones look like a Ball of Crap in 3yrs.... That's why you spend the extra money for the Stainless.

Your TM does Not have stainless up against alum.

 

[GotChrist?]

We shall see. I see a lot of people with them. Stainless was deff more. Cost benefit for me. The radar was 2500 and the SEAVIEW another 300 so I tried to keep it reasonable

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=20560