Search results

It depends on which switches you have. Provided that your switch panel is set up for Contura bodies, it’s a fairly simple upgrade if you have a guy near you that can do it. Couple hundred bucks for new switch bodies, covers and some wiring mods, and you’re in business.

I’m astounded that they told you to go with the Point-1 as it will not work with the autopilot. It doesn’t have the precision needed for the AP to function. What is the AP doing that you suspect that the compass is not functioning properly? If it runs in smooth water but not rough water, it’s...

Go for Gemlux. I replaced all mine and added two midships ones with their 6” pull up cleats. Excellent quality.

So the all around/anchor light will be on the underside of the T-top? Still seems like it would be pretty blinding. I’ll be interested to see how it turns out. Did you consider mounting it on top of the T-top?

Nice boat! I run a ‘97 1700 out of Norfolk. I’d be interested to see how the two boats differ between the model years.

I’m not sure where you’re boating that you get 38-40kt conditions with a 21-degree deadrise hull, but I envy you. Where I run out of DE, much above the mid-20s is going to beat the hell out of you in pretty typical conditions. He’s north of me on the same coast so he’ll likely see a similar...

For where he’s at, the 150s will be fine unless he’s going to be running really heavily loaded all the time, which it doesn’t sound like is his plan. But I agree with you, 70K seems steep.

Is yours an air horn, or an electric one? The momentary compressors for the air ones draw a good bit of instantaneous power, unless it’s the kind that uses a pressure tank.

BEP switch isn’t going to help your horn issue, although it’s a good idea regardless. You’ve got some homework to do. The reason your electronics are shutting off is due to voltage drop. The compressor for your air horn draws a relatively high amount of amperage. This, combined with supply...

I’ll say that I have a pair of Xtra Tuff ankle boots, and I’m not particularly impressed. The tread is not very aggressive, and I’ve almost slipped while wearing them a few times. Those Grundens look like they have some very good tread on them.

I’d still recommend cutting that off, or at least knocking the tip off with a file. Screws that are too long like that are a fast track to compromised wire insulation and very hard-to-troubleshoot electrical issues.

How much have you run the boat? Aside from the questionable fix, do you feel the need to upgrade to bigger tabs? Honestly, if the tabs function properly, and they extend/retract to the proper degree even with the fix, I’d leave it for now. A few tiny pieces of hardware are not going to impact...

I just finished a total overhaul of my ‘95 2530. The only thing that wasn’t redone or upgraded was the tank (definitely on borrowed time) and some of the cosmetic stuff- new cushions, cabin carpet, etc. With new power, new electronics, new electrical, and a ton of upgrades, I figure I’m about...

Yeah, maybe I’m not envisioning it correctly but I don’t know of any way this would work and not be in the way of the door, in addition to being a head banger. Also, it looks like it would swing around a lot.

I used one on each of my twin 150s before my repower, after the old tube crumbled away. No complaints, they work great for UV protection. They just don’t provide any physical protection so you’ll want to avoid stepping on the cable bundles, pinching them while tilting the motor, etc.

I’d be very interested in seeing some pictures of your setup.

Warthog disagrees with me on this one, but for occasional use, manually securing power to the windlass by opening the breaker at the helm is perfectly fine. The breaker is designed to have that functionality. I wouldn’t do it 10 times a day, but closing it when you’re anchoring and then...

Do you happen to have any pictures of them? I’m weighing options for my 2530 and I’m very interested in what you came up with.

Now it’s my turn to apologize! Sorry to nitpick the measurement, but I’m curious. Where on the seat did you measure this to? The bottom of the seat itself, or the bottom of the mount? I’ve attached a picture of what I have. You can see that it’s right about the same measurement, if it was...

Hmm… I wonder if the Lewmar remote could be made to work with other brands. I’m guessing it’s just sending a remote signal to the solenoids, which in theory is just a +/- 12v signal. I’d still be reluctant to install one without a hard wired switch. Imagine dropping the remote overboard...