1994 Parker 2320 extended cabin open back project

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First coat of paint. I really did want to go with the gelcoat but decided this would be a good option for while. If I get a few years out of it I’ll be happy. I plan on 3 coats total with the last coat having non skid mixed in.
60a1206f0acfe54a0ed8dec66442349f.jpg



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mheltunen":2fg0h6qq said:
First coat of paint. I really did want to go with the gelcoat but decided this would be a good option for while. If I get a few years out of it I’ll be happy. I plan on 3 coats total with the last coat having non skid mixed in.
60a1206f0acfe54a0ed8dec66442349f.jpg



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Neat it will last for many years

B2
 
Next on “the list” once all the paint and gelcoat is done is to finish up the wiring and install a new transducer. I finished up the installation of a floscan gauge last night. I removed the old tube fuse panel last week and have been transferring all the wiring over to a new blue seas 12 place fuse panel. I need to go thru the rest of the wiring on the vessel and remove some of the abandoned circuits and old wires. I have new nav lights that need to be installed. I need to find new fittings that connect to my wash down pumps (they cracked when I removed them to inspect strainers). The freshwater system needs to be re installed after giving it a good cleaning. The list is long and seems to grow daily ....


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mheltunen":1qqw0pha said:
Next on “the list” once all the paint and gelcoat is done is to finish up the wiring and install a new transducer. I finished up the installation of a floscan gauge last night. I removed the old tube fuse panel last week and have been transferring all the wiring over to a new blue seas 12 place fuse panel. I need to go thru the rest of the wiring on the vessel and remove some of the abandoned circuits and old wires. I have new nav lights that need to be installed. I need to find new fittings that connect to my wash down pumps (they cracked when I removed them to inspect strainers). The freshwater system needs to be re installed after giving it a good cleaning. The list is long and seems to grow daily ....


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Buy a,good crimper like Ancor and adhesive lined connectors. Good read on pbase marine how to site
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
B2
 
I ordered wire terminations (heat shrink) and a crimper today. My wire crimper/cutter was a tad primitive so I took Brent’s advice.


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I’m starting to look at the rigging phase of my project. Where do other owners store nets for easy access? I like to keep two nets on deck when trolling but I like to keep them stored amidships to prevent tangling on the trolling rods. Any pics?


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mheltunen":1xkp96jh said:
I’m starting to look at the rigging phase of my project. Where do other owners store nets for easy access? I like to keep two nets on deck when trolling but I like to keep them stored amidships to prevent tangling on the trolling rods. Any pics?


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I don't know but don't think trolling nets are legal in Florida. Folks use casting nets for bait fish. Some guys are so good at it and make it look easy.

B2
 
Brent":ha2l3bsb said:
mheltunen":ha2l3bsb said:
I’m starting to look at the rigging phase of my project. Where do other owners store nets for easy access? I like to keep two nets on deck when trolling but I like to keep them stored amidships to prevent tangling on the trolling rods. Any pics?


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I don't know but don't think trolling nets are legal in Florida. Folks use casting nets for bait fish. Some guys are so good at it and make it look easy.

B2

I should have been more specific. A landing net is what we use here. Our fish are much smaller and don’t require gaffing.


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mheltunen":2hsr913l said:
First coat of paint. I really did want to go with the gelcoat but decided this would be a good option for while. If I get a few years out of it I’ll be happy. I plan on 3 coats total with the last coat having non skid mixed in.
60a1206f0acfe54a0ed8dec66442349f.jpg



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no net for us , we have a gaff. I caught a 40 lb black drum and needed it to unhook it. Oh, we boat in Florida. We tire them a bit and bring onto bracket and avoid any lively fish in the cockpit
 
shawnee83":1wx7w393 said:
Roof is looking good. How is your wiring, you mentioned starting on some if that.

I’ve just started on the wiring. Parts coming in this week. I did install a new fuse panel at the helm and slowly been transferring the circuits over.


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That will be time well spent. Don’t forget the grease on the connectors and heat shrink everything. You will rarely have any issues after. Corrosion wicking in the wires is one of the biggest problems to those automotive connectors. You are really getting a lot done, impressive.
 
shawnee83":20bxy7an said:
That will be time well spent. Don’t forget the grease on the connectors and heat shrink everything. You will rarely have any issues after. Corrosion wicking in the wires is one of the biggest problems to those automotive connectors. You are really getting a lot done, impressive.

Thanks. At times it seems like very little gets done but when I look back over the posts I realize I’m making progress. The wire terminals I ordered are heat shrink and I plan on putting heat shrink tubing over them as well.


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If you ordered the terminals and all connectors with the heat shrink then that should be fine alone. You shouldn’t need to use the tubing over top of that providing you get a good seal. Obviously, the key to that is using to proper sized heat shrink connectors per the gauge of the wires. I’ve done many just using a lighter but when I did my last project which involved a lot of it I finally broke down and purchased a proper heat gun. Much better. Also, I’m sure you know this but any wire that you purchase make sure it’s marine with the tin. Don’t put the grease between the connections points but on top of connections. Good luck.
 

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Thanks for the tips. I do have tinned wire so that’s covered. Odd I always thought you put a dab of grease between the ring terminal and the mating surface (ex. Fuse panel). But that makes sense that it could add additional resistance in the circuit.


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That’s correct. You don’t want anything prohibiting a good metal to metal connection. You use the grease to coat to outer surfaces and prevent to corrosion and seal the connection from the outside. On the subject of connections, also make sure your ring terminals not only are correct per the wire gauge but that they are also correct per the size of the screws (i.e. #6, #8 etc) that they are mounted with. This facilitates solid connections. I used the attached company for some of my products, especially if you need to redo any battery cables and don’t want to invest in the heavier wire crimpers needed for them. They will custom make, with any style connectors, wires by the inch and foot.
https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Custom-Cables
 
shawnee83":2kdm459w said:
That’s correct. You don’t want anything prohibiting a good metal to metal connection. You use the grease to coat to outer surfaces and prevent to corrosion and seal the connection from the outside. On the subject of connections, also make sure your ring terminals not only are correct per the wire gauge but that they are also correct per the size of the screws (i.e. #6, #8 etc) that they are mounted with. This facilitates solid connections. I used the attached company for some of my products, especially if you need to redo any battery cables and don’t want to invest in the heavier wire crimpers needed for them. They will custom make, with any style connectors, wires by the inch and foot.
https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Custom-Cables

Thanks for the link and advice. I do have access to the large crimpers for the larger wire so that’s a big help. I have quite a bit of 16 ga tinned wire but I’ll have to order some of the larger sizes when I have a firm plan.


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Any chance someone has a 6” radar mount for a Raymarine 24” dome hanging around? Kinda a shot in the dark but never hurts to ask. I’ve been looking at the battle wagon mounts but confess I have sticker shock.


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