1994 Parker 2320 extended cabin open back project

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I had about 100 gallons on board. Once I get my floscan working properly I’ll start running with less fuel. For now I’m going to make some plugs for the deck drains for slow speed operation.


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My forward bilge pump amp is starting to malfunction . Any recommendations for a replacement?


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No. It doesn’t remove all of the water due to its location. The standing water stinks within a few hours. I use hot soapy water with a little bleach, allow to sit for more than 15 min the pump out with wet dry vacuum if I clean it . I have used Johnson with electronic sensor and Rule with flipper float. Buy the largest possible. If large wave and or a lot of rain hits the cockpit, a lot of water will enter pilot house and berth so keep floor drains clear. The aft bilge will not remove most of the water bc of lack of cockpit drains into bilge. May not happen often but something to think about. I have a cockpit hatch going into deck fish or baitwell with small bilge pump. I would open it if possible, if had a lot of water. The limber drain is only effective when running and bow is high. M2cw. Apologies for not using exact verbiage.
 
I’ve noticed the front bilge does accumulate water and I’m a bit puzzled where it’s coming from. My hull is solid so I’m certain no infiltration there and I store it inside while not in use so that eliminates rain water. I have not had a chance to test her in rough sea either so that eliminates spray yet the front bilge has many gallons of water after each trip out. In the stern located by my rear deck drains there appears to be a “channel” that goes towards the bow from the drains (under the deck). I’m very curious where that channel leads to and in fact if it discharges into the front bilge that would explain everything.


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The drain pipe under the cockpit I call a limber hole . We have water from.wet anchor rode and windlass but if stored, we made a cover. I don't see any water leaks in piltohouse. Inside has been wet when I leave windows open temporarily or by mistake. The cabin bilge is flat and does not drain very well and water sits aft of cabin bilge pump. Under the berth, floor is a part of hull going to cabin bilge. If this makes sense.

B2
 
I’m still dealing with some fuel issues on my engine. It appears I’m getting air in the system and I’m planning on changing the pickup tube in the tank. Anyone have any recommendations for a replacement?


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Maybe check the anti siphon valve isn't full of gunk. I removed the spring and ball inside. It is a safety device so your call.

Your pickup tubes and 90 degree angle block might have screens which can clog, too.

I used Moeller tubes

http://moellermarine.com/moeller-marine ... 033500-24/

Check size before ordering

I wish the tube was longer like a inch above tank bottom to get more fuel capacity and change fuel filter more often if you do make them longer. I am using 2 micron Racor with clear bowl.


If you swap out measure the tank depth for me. Thanks


B2
 
Thanks Brent, I’ll take a look. I’ve replaced most of the fuel lines between the tank and engine and somehow I’m still pulling in some air from somewhere , but oddly not always. Intermittent problems sure are a pain in the neck.


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Brent":1r40kni8 said:
M2cw is check the external or Racor filter first, remove and lube or replace the o ring. If have a bowl, same process .

I used the blue Yamaha filters and would lube the rubber seal with Yamalube, much like you would the oil filter on a car or truck.
Do not over tighten! Hand tight only.
 

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Thanks guys. I have a few things to look at. Oddly I’ve heard that the racors can draw air if not torqued down well. Although that’s the trouble with the internet tough to know what to try at times.


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It is difficult to find the issue the first time. I try the easy stuff first. Racor changed o rings from black to green several years ago and still small diameter maybe it is the fittings on filter head and needs special fuel resistant goop.

B2
 
I pulled apart my rigging tube (transom to outboard) tonite to inspect for a possible pinch in the fuel line. Instead I found the hot wire had a bad gouge out of the shielding and the wire was badly corroded . There was quite a bit of extra inside the transom so I fished some out and cut open the bad section.
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I’d say at best it was operating at 30-50% capacity. That’s being liberal. I’m now wondering if the wire was getting very hot in that location and boiling the fuel in rigging tube. Possibly creating a vapor lock scenario.


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Thart’s bad. I would consider replacing the entire cable with a new one. I wouldn’t want to worry about any voltage drops at the splice or wicking corrosion. Did you see any signs of burning? Have you replaced that part of the fuel line from your primer to the motor yet? Any chance you are sucking air at any of the connections like after the engine fuel filter?
 
Quite a bit of the fuel line have been replaced. The cable itself had about 3’ coiled up inside the transom so I was able to draw some of that thru the rigging tube towards the engine. I’m going to cut the wire back a bit and crimp on new lugs. No signs of burning were evident so that’s good. I’m slowly going thru and replacing orings and fuel lines. The fuel lines on the engine itself look in good condition but I may go ahead and order new ones. It’s the intermittent problems that take so long to diagnose.


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PKS1801":369sj2ed said:
Brent":369sj2ed said:
Megabyte I see a speck of dirt. Lol

B2

And that filter is more than a year old. And where are the mounting bolts for that seacock, is it just threaded onto the thru-hull scoop? :shock:


You need to direct those questions to the new owner.
My boat moved to Florida, and I didn't. :cry:
 
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