2002 2520 MVSC Refresh

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Hi, Everyone. I'm the original owner of a 2002 2520 MVSC that has been meticulously maintained since new. After sticker shock of pricing out a new Parker a couple years ago, I decided to do a refresh to bring it up to date with new wiring, electronics, and few other things added into the mix. Some of the upgrades were copies of what many have already done here (replacement stainless thru-hulls, 2nd aft "crash" pump, etc.) but there are few that we've done that I'm hoping others may benefit from our additions. I started last year (2013) with blasting the bottom and correcting the waterline (too high in the stern/too low in the bow like many Parkers I see). I also started to purchase the necessary replacement parts and find an electrician & fiberglass shop to take on the project for winter 2014. Special thanks to Brad (Parker) and Tim (Timc2520) for their advice along the way. I need to take more detailed photos and will add over the next few weeks.

Here's the finished result:

 

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Bottom:
My father and I had already removed the bottom paint (by scraping/sanding - never again!) and applied a barrier coat in 2004. However, the water line was initially improperly marked and I was never satisfied with the line. The boat went to Atlantic Green Pro In Mount Laurel, NJ last year to blast using the farrow process. The goal was to remove all of the paint/barrier down to gel on the sides and transom using walnut shells and remove just the ablative paint alone on the bottom using recycled glass mixed with water. The walnut shells were gentle but still left a little etching on the sides and a couple spots burned through the gel above where the new line was set but that was corrected this year at the fiberglass shop (Young's fiberglass in Marmora, NJ - more to come on their work!) by sanding and spraying gel on the couple spots as needed.

Here's the before and plus a shot while waiting in the yard at Atlantic Green Pro in April 2013:

 

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Here's the results after farrow blasting:

 

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We then let her sit in the slip for two weeks to pick up a scum line which also accounted for the starboard list we are all familiar with as owners of Parkers with the pooling of water.
We taped above the scum line with 1" tape and then another row of 1" to give us the new line 2" above scum plus we taped two additional rows of 1" tape below the scum line to allow for tapering down the barrier/bottom paint so you don't get such a thick edge at the top when applying multiple coats of barrier plus bottom paint (Micron 66). We applied two new coats of barrier on the bottom and then 4 coats on the sides/transom each time removing a row of masking tape. The top 1" above the scum line you end up with one coat of barrier plus ablative for a thinner finished edged.

In addition, I asked a sign guy to match the existing "Lesa Elaine" in new vinyl as the original was pretty faded after 11 years of UV. He's been in the sign business for 20 years so I trusted his judgment sight unseen. He didn't even come close. I wasn't too happy with his choices of colors/font! Lesson learned - do it yourself or at least preview prior to application.

Here's the pic of her drying prior to removing the last row of 3M fine line masking tape:

 

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Skipping ahead to the "fiberglass" project. With the wiring/electronics completed (need to take pics of that work) the boat went to Young's fiberglass in Marmora, NJ. These guys are well known in the NJ/DE area for their outstanding attention to detail and reputation for quality. David Young and his team far exceeded my expectations. I cannot say enough good things about them as professionals and their work speaks for itself. A+++ rating!

I wanted to replace my Powerwich 31 horizontal series with a Good Windlass F850A vertical. Good is a popular brand in the NE as well as being local in NJ and been around for decades. In order to do it right with respect to aesthetics and functionality (having the line drop in the deepest part of the anchor locker), I wanted to build an extension to the pulpit for mounting the Good. Young's manufactured a pulpit "extension" platform out of marine plywood, glassed over, and gelcoated with Parker gelcoat to protect the core and match the existing pulpit. In addition we went with nonskid finish to make it look like it was a factory install. Young's also filled in the old holes from my Powerwinch as will as patched the never-used hawse pipe that came with the boat. They were able to blend new nonskid over the hawse pipe patch and you'd never know it was there. Pics do not do it justice as to how nice it came out.

Here you go:

 

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More pics of the windlass platform:

 

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Platform w/ nonskid and windlass installed:

 

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New Parker badging and name:

I redid the vinyl name using http://doityourselflettering.com. I selected black lettering w/ gold outline to match the Parker striping. Also bought all new Parker badging and striping for the hull. I know some prefer it without but I like the look of it.
(You'll also notice some stress crack repairs from a piling hit in the before photo)

Before:

 

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After:

 

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New rubrail w/ stainless insert:
David Young talked me into upgrading the utilitarian style stock rubrail to the new Parker lower profile version w/ stainless to modernize the look. I think it makes a huge difference:

 

[Photoguy]

Looks great!

 

[ThePeterParker]

Nice Job!!

 

[Megabyte]

Love that windlass! 8)

 

[TimC2520]

Nice.....

 

[warthog5]

I like that Shop.


Scrooling down.....I went...."Why 2 holes in the windless block?" Then I saw the Vertical shaft unit?


Why did you decide on that? FYI: Vertical's need more depth in the anchor locker.....Horizontals need less.

How much Anchor Rode are you carrying?

The work looks nice.

 

[DaleH]

Beautiful! Consider adding a 2" boot stripe above your new waterline and that hull will POP!

 

[Parker]

Jim - the boat looks great. The pictures don't do it justice! Don't forget to post pictures of the new Garmin!

Brad

 

[cbigma]

Lookin' Good........All set for another 12 years!!... A Classic Parker 8)

 

[Bryan 2530]

Awesome job on all projects.

What rubrail did you use, and what was the cost if you don't mind me asking?

I like the SS insert look.

 

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Thanks for the feedback/compliments, guys.

Warthog: We fish in Delaware Bay exclusively which is releatively shallow (5-30 ft) so 300 ft of line is plenty for this application and fits in our locker with the motor mounted under deck. I went with the F850A vertical because I prefer the look of a vertical plus it is the only windlass I am aware where you do not need to tie off the rode to a cleat when you lock up the gypsy. This is documented in their user manual!

Dale: I love the look of a boot stripe and at one point I did have one but the older MVSC's have low freeboard and I think a boot stripe makes it look even "lower" IMHO.

Bryan: I used the same rubrail that Parker now provides as an option - can't recall the direct supplier but it was not taco. It was purchased through Cecil Marine (local Parker dealer). I'll PM with price.
BTW, they only come it sets lenthgs, not by the foot (e.g. 23, 25, 28). We purchased enough to do a 28' sportcabin in the event it is ever damaged I have extra to "patch" rather than having to replace the entire rail.