2021 Parker 2320 and Minn Kota Trolling motor installation.

[sydngoose]

Good morning.

I am going to install a Minn Kota Terrova Ipilot 36 volt 112 pound thrust trolling motor on the bow. I am conflicted now w/ the shaft length.

I purchased a new 87" Minn Kota, and it's sitting in my garage. This shaft is HUGE. I am concerned about mounting it on the bow and having so much shaft length. My goal is install it such that the entire trolly is within the bow rail foot print ( for docking and trailering and lift : which all have guide on pole obstructions).

I know the 72" shaft can be mounted 100% w/ in the constraints of the bow rail with no rail cutting.

I can not see how the 87" shaft is going to be contained 100% w/ in the bow rail / rub rail constraints.

I have the opportunity to sell this MK to a buddy for exactly what I paid for it. I would then purchase the 72" shaft.

Question to you fellas: Is the 87" shaft absolutely necessary for wreck anchoring offshore w/ the 2320 specs?

Is it worth sacrificing the convenience of mounting it and leaving it on ? Or is the inconvenience of removing it to trailer and dock and lift access trumped by the ability to anchor in any sea conditions knowing that the extra 15" will stay submerged even in 2-3 foot seas?

Thoughts?

 

[willyk9]

I have a 2320, if I were to installed one it would be no shorter than 84". In a tight 2-3' chop which is typical in the North East the bow definitely heaves up and down a considerable amount.

 

[sydngoose]

Yes, I have decided to keep my 87". Just pulled the boat off the lift today, put her on the trailer. Going to start fitting her up tomorrow. Thanks, Willy!

 

[sydngoose]

Ok, It is finished: Here is an extensive write up and picture heavy so the next guy can accomplish this with the success I had on my installation. There is not a lot of information out there on 87" shaft trolling motor (TM) mounted on 2320's. But, it IS do-able, and I would recommend nothing different.

Materials:
*2021 Parker 2320 with single 300 yamaha, factory pulpit, windlass and west coast bow rail, Lewmar anchor roller and Lewmar anchor.
*Minn Kota 36 volt 112 pound 87" shaft Terrova, bluetooth TM.
*Relion 50ah RB50's lithium batteries (3) combined in series
*3 Relion RB50 battery trays and secure straps
*Powermania lithium battery charger
*Blue Seas 60 amp circuit breaker
*The Battery Tender Trolling Motor plug (BT TM) plug.
*RAM "claw" 1 inch ball, B series, 1 and 1/4" rail clamp with 1" ball, B series and 1 inch B series extender clamp.
*Anchor 8AWG/ 2 duplex ( 18 feet) for run from Circuit breaker to the Battery Tender TM plug
*(2) 8awg 1/4" ring marine tinned butt connector ( for 20" extension connection from MK TM primary leads to the Battery Tender TM plug.
*(2) heat shrink 8awg butt connector ( for extending the 10awg MK primary leads 20" using 8AWG for the extension piece)
*Various size marine heat shrink and lots of it.
*12" 6awg and 5/16 ring terminals for the battery series jumpers (2 jumpers)
*(2) 8awg 1/4" ring connectors for connecting the "aux" side of the circuit breaker to the bow mounted BT TM plug and the "bat" side positive post.
* 5/16" 8awg ring connector end of negative lead from BT TM plug to last - on battery series.
*your favorite adhesive sealant: I used 3m fast cure uv4000 in white
*1 and 1/8th inch hole saw to cut the BT TM plug into the fiberglass.
*jig saw and drill and bit set
*3/4 inch plywood to make the template: 1/4 sheet
*3/8" aluminum 6061 T6 (20"x 30")
*(2) 3/8" by 4 and 1/2 inch bolt for aft two thru-bolts through pulpit into rail legs.
*(4) 1/4" 2 1/2 inch threaded bolts through lewmar SS plate, pulpit, aluminum bracket.
**save all your original hardware, washers, bolts, nuts as you can re-use a lot of it.
*4 large clamps ( to hold the template and final plate up to mount...unless you have a helper .. which I didn't).
* 3M spray upholstery glue ( for re-applying the monkey fur to the fiberglass)
*pencil, tape measure, yard stick, scratch pad


Pictures start to finish:

templating

 

[sydngoose]

 

[Marshall4949]

Thank you for this

 

[Andy]

This is one clean, professional installation!

 

[grouperjim]

It looks well thought out. The only thing that would be of concern to me would be the amount flex on that extension pad where the unit is bolted down. There is a reason why the pulpit and transom bracket have a lipped edge. Not having a lip or at least 3/4 of that extension pad supported by the structure of the boat, I would watch it closely and monitor the flex.

Stand on it and check for movement.

Also, don't see a pic with the prop attached. How is the clearance?

 

[sydngoose]

It looks well thought out. The only thing that would be of concern to me would be the amount flex on that extension pad where the unit is bolted down. There is a reason why the pulpit and transom bracket have a lipped edge. Not having a lip or at least 3/4 of that extension pad supported by the structure of the boat, I would watch it closely and monitor the flex.

Stand on it and check for movement.

Also, don't see a pic with the prop attached. How is the clearance?

Jim, hi. Your thoughts are credible, and I considered both of them:

1.) the base plate bracket for the MK quick release mount:
It's 3/8" powder coated 6061 T6 aluminum: it's structurally sound. I was conflicted between the 3/8th and 1/2", but every fabricator I talked to ( a bunch) all said it was way overkill. 3/8th is more than adequate.

I now agree. The plate is thru bolted with (4) 1/4" thru bolts: large stainless washers on bottom of plate. Through solid fiberglass pulpit, through the Lewmar stainless bow roller plate. It's rigid and unmovable w/ these four bots. Then, it has a pair of 3/8" 4 and 1/2" threaded bolts that go through a series of washers to distribute load ( and take up the extra 1/4" space where 4"was too short). These bolts go through the plate, through the pulpit and threaded into the forward upright supports ( 1 and 1/4" diameter) bow rail legs: one on each side. So, it's mounted to the boat in 2 different areas: the bow rail ( which is also thru bolted to the hull) and the pulpit, which of course is thru bolted to the hull in 10 locations.

Think about it this way ( as I did): that pulpit is meant to have the anchor rode cleated off to it, so its part of the boat. Anything thru-bolted to the pulpit is now part of the boat.

Flex: this was my only concern: After bolting it up there, I literally did pull ups on the bracket in two locations : forward and aft. I am 160 pounds. No flex, no give: If you shake it, the whole boat shakes.

This is the 4th bow mounted pulpit mount I have seen : (2) 2520's and mine makes the 2nd 2320. No failures yet: I know at least 3 of those are 6061 T6 aluminum 3/8" powder coated like mine. .. not sure about one of the 2520's.

I'll report back in a couple weeks after real world experience.

2.) the prop: No problem: Held it up to the prop shaft without mounting. I will install that prop tomorrow.

Look how substantial the pulpit is mounted to the hull: 10 thru-bolts ; 12 if you count the windlass bolts. Wow!

 

[Daytripper1]

Wow very professional install,thinking of an install on my 21 SE what was cost of unit and install,i would go w shorter shaft,thanks DT

 

[sydngoose]

Wow very professional install,thinking of an install on my 21 SE what was cost of unit and install,i would go w shorter shaft,thanks DT

Thanks. I’ll tell you my costs: they will be similar to your project:
Minn Kota $3100
3 batteries $1500
Battery charger $300
Battery trays $60
Custom built mounting plate w CAD design $500
Blue seas circuit breaker $80
Battery tender trolling motor plug $100
Ring connectors, butt connectors, wires/ cables, heat shrink, dielectric grease, cable wraps: $200
Ram mount $80

My materials were close to $6,000
I installed it all myself. But I know others that have paid $1100-$1500 for installation. Do it yourself cost close to $6k. Hire a certified rigger, probably closer to $7,000.
You can get that number down by not going lithium batteries but rather AGM ( recommend against that route but does save money at initial installation)...
Also your shorter shaft trolling motor will be a few hundred less... but I wouldn't go less than a 72" shaft for your application.

 

[Daytripper1]

Thanks so much for detailed info,will be looking into an install,DT

 

[Swatski]

Great write up!

If I could make a suggestion: ...a kicker motor on your transom bracket... wouldn't it be nice? - appended with an install thread, of course.

 

[djam]

Do you have a distance shot of the batteries and layout in the cabin? I was thinking of rigging up something like that for storage and I wanted to see where you put it and how it looks. Thanks

 

[rseate]

Great write up!

If I could make a suggestion: ...a kicker motor on your transom bracket... wouldn't it be nice? - appended with an install thread, of course.

My 2300DV had a 9.9hp Yamaha kicker mounted to my engine bracket when I bought it. I know it’s a different boat but 2 reasons why I removed it:
* Even stowed it created a lot of drag when the seas kicked up above 3’
* My boat is naturally stern heavy and the additional weight forced the stern even lower, probably not a concern on a pilot house boat

 

[ShoalsSkipper]

EXCEPTIONAL writeup! Suggest you do a formal writeup, copywrite it, and send to Parker and MinnKota. Royalties in your future! Have one on order for my 2520.

 

[sydngoose]

Do you have a distance shot of the batteries and layout in the cabin? I was thinking of rigging up something like that for storage and I wanted to see where you put it and how it looks. Thanks

yessir:

 

[sydngoose]

Great write up!

If I could make a suggestion: ...a kicker motor on your transom bracket... wouldn't it be nice? - appended with an install thread, of course.

What would I use a kickermotor for?
Outboard technology is so dependable now, I do not expect a mechanical failure offshore.
Furthermore, w an EPIRB, PLB, AIS, 3 VHF’s, BOATUS membership - I just don’t see the value in a kicker motor.

now if I were running a 300 HPDI, or an old Johnson looper v6, I would consider a kicker a safety item. But w a 4.2l 300 Yamaha? That motor is so tested tried and true. I literally put my life in her hands. Not even a second thought leaving the dock....

 

[Swatski]

What would I use a kickermotor for?
Outboard technology is so dependable now, I do not expect a mechanical failure offshore.
Furthermore, w an EPIRB, PLB, AIS, 3 VHF’s, BOATUS membership - I just don’t see the value in a kicker motor.

now if I were running a 300 HPDI, or an old Johnson looper v6, I would consider a kicker a safety item. But w a 4.2l 300 Yamaha? That motor is so tested tried and true. I literally put my life in her hands. Not even a second thought leaving the dock....

That is true! notwithstanding spun-hub or propeller strike-type events or some occasional "making oil" reports - presumably in the setting of excessive operation at idle speeds (trolling), those motors really do have an outstanding track record of reliability.

Out of curiosity - would you be able to "guestimate" a range your trolling motor could push the boat?

I admire your mod and fishing reports!

--

 

[pelagic2530]

That is true! notwithstanding spun-hub or propeller strike-type events or some occasional "making oil" reports - presumably in the setting of excessive operation at idle speeds (trolling), those motors really do have an outstanding track record of reliability.

Out of curiosity - would you be able to "guestimate" a range your trolling motor could push the boat?

I admire your mod and fishing reports!

--

I wonder what would happen, in a strong headwind or current situation, if you had a kicker motor on the bracket locked into pushing slow ahead, and had the bow mounted trolling motor in spot lock adjusting for lateral motion? Would the trolling motor just see less overall astern vector and apply less power, thereby saving your battery? Or would they fight each other? Could you do it with the main engine, idling forward?

What about TWO trolling motors in spot lock??? Or a generator setup capable of producing the current needed to run the TM indefinitely?

I'm mostly kidding about the two motors, but the engine(s) in conjunction with the TM intrigues me. I work with Dynamic Positioning vessels in my day job, so the idea of automatic station keeping on small boats is fascinating to me.