2320 hull solid or cored?

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crusty

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Hi everyone I was considering installing an Airmar m260 shoot through ducer in the battery area. Before purchasing anything I would like to know if the hull bottom is solid glass because if it has coring the ducer will not work. Thanks guys I appreciate any help.
 
All glass except for the small piece of plywood laminated in under the bilge pump. I used a hole saw to cut through the plywood to expose the glass. There is a hollow space between the wood and glass. My transducer shoots straight down and delivers a perfect return at any speed.
 

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Crusty What year 2320 do you own?

Is this location true for all 2320 production years?
I have a 1994 2320 and the first owner had transducer inside the cabin bilge by the pump and I plan to replace it with a working one but if aft blige will work, that is another option but it is a little difficult to access
 
Brent":2ehgtuk6 said:
Crusty What year 2320 do you own?

Is this location true for all 2320 production years?

Not sure, but I have installed a few on 2004 and newer on CCs and PHs. It's a little bit of work chewing through the plywood to get to the glass. The ducer is sitting in a bed of special "transducer" epoxy.

FWIW the easiest install is a "thru-hull" flush mount Airmar 20 degree tilted.........move off the stern pad up the stbd side about 6-8 inches or so and drill your hole through the solid glass, sealant and snug it up and you're done. I think the "shoot-thru" install on the pad gives a better shot though.

Here are some crappy cell phone shots some at slow speed and some at 28mph. Gain set to "auto." This is with the cheapest and lowest watt tranducer Airmar makes........shoot thru on the pad.
 

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No way you are getting clean water in the front. You want to install the tranducer near the transom. All the rigging for the engine is located on the starboard side. Just fish the transducer wire from the helm to the stern on top of the rigging tube. I have a shoot-thru transducer with an Airmar "cup" that has angle that matches the 21degree V at the stern. I just glued it on with a generous amount of silicone and fill it with windshield wiper fluid instead of the suggested mineral oil. The transducer then screws on the cup. The install is more than 10 years old and still works fine at any speed. My boat is a 1999 2320. I think the rear bilge is the same on most models but access to it might be different.
 

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FWIW I run 2 separate depth/fish finders on board, different frequencies. My primary is lime all of yours, based out of the stern. But I added a cheap (< $90) simple digital that shoots thru the forward bilge that reads the water depth off the bow.

It has proven to be VERY useful on the tidal estuaries I boat where the tides are > 9' in height every day, and up to 11' ... read MINUS tides of -1 to -2' on moon tides. Believe me, then you REALLY want to know where the dang channel is, and some of these are narrow!
 
I just installed an Airmar/Raymarine B60 20 deg tilted thru hull in my 2320. I installed it on the starboard side just aft of the fuel filter. Drilling through the hull was easy and used an electric drill with the proper sized circular saw bit. Below is a picture of the hole in the hull. Afterwards I used 5200 to seal the bottom and top. In the picture you can see where the screw holes were for the old stern mounted transducer. Had those fixed by a fiberglass guy soon after the pic was taken.

Works great and I can get solid bottom reading at 21 kts in 500ft of water now. I can post some more pics up of the install once I get home from work tonight if you want.

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Airmar "Tilted Element" through-hull transducer.
Solid glass in this area.
 

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Question:

Whereas I'll literally beach the boat a few times a year (see below) in soft mud or sand ... does anyone have any concerns or prognostications in regards to the thru-hull tilted element intergrity?

I suppose I could position the hull so she lists to the port-side, reasoning that I'm going to install it on the starboard side as others did.

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The port side on most Parkers has got the bronze scoop for the raw water pick-up. For "clean" water this leaves the stbd side for a thru hull install.

FWIW I have seen guys put their boat on a trailer crooked so the tilted element thru hull was resting directly on the wooden bunk. Didn't appear to cause any issues at all.

For DV drivers one must be aware of the turbulence coming off the inboard most lifting strake. While this strake stops about 2/3 of the way back, depending on speed and conditions it can impart some dirty water over a thru hull mounted off the centerline depending on how far off you are.
 

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Unless you parked the boat directly on top of a sharp rock, I don't see an issue. :)
 
I installed the angled fairing block about 5 years ago and it is solid. The hole through the hull is the same or similar size as a flush mount. Love it! Only lose bottom when hard in reverse.
Aslo see this tread viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6357
 

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Thanks Guys I will be going with a shoot thru. I had a thru hull on my last boat and did not like the returns much above idle. The ducer had nothing but flat glass all around it and I wonder if the miniscule lip added any aeration. I especially like those screen shots by Grouper Jim except the lat/longs are a little fuzzy...
 

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DaleH":1qr3hw3k said:
Question:

Whereas I'll literally beach the boat a few times a year (see below) in soft mud or sand ... does anyone have any concerns or prognostications in regards to the thru-hull tilted element intergrity?

I suppose I could position the hull so she lists to the port-side, reasoning that I'm going to install it on the starboard side as others did.

file.php


It will not hurt a thing Dale. You can actually park the boat on a trailer and have it contact the bunk. I don't recommend it that way, but it will not hurt it.
 
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