Battery Configuration , I need some guidance

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DaleH":uc7a24zg said:
Megabyte":uc7a24zg said:
In the dry and protected areas of my boat, I don't worry as much.
On some of those, where I could confirm (resistance check on the wire) that it was integral and non-corroded, I have sealed the ends of the non-heatshrink-covered connections with liquid e-tape ... until I eventually replaced them.

Yep. That's me. :D
 
FYI, I just sent an email to BEP asking - WHY? - when they make such a great product ... do they use cheap terminal connections?
 
DaleH":o8l31tw0 said:
FYI, I just sent an email to BEP asking - WHY? - when they make such a great product ... do they use cheap terminal connections?
Here's their response or their NON-response, IMHO, as they know darn well it's going on a boat! Just because it has a backpanel doesn't mean it meets NEMA water or environment surviability ratings ... :

"We have not used insulated terminals as we never know where the unit is fitted."

BEP Sales
 
Brent":3a4k0uql said:
Could you add a liquid electrical sealsnt that will solidify and seal entire area?
Don't need to seal an area, just the 'ins' and 'outs' of the terminal connectors. I 'used' to do just that before I would just replace whatever with all marine-grade parts covered with adhesive-lined heatshrink. But if back in an enclosed bilge or lazerette space, subject to moist and hot saltwater environment ... yeah, I'd protect them better like Bobby did.
 
Brent":24sgvlhn said:
Would not sealing the entire back section be a better solution to provide all exposed parts and faster?

After looking at the photos of the parts, I'm not sure you could do that without affecting the operation of the switches.
Much safer just making up two new cables with sealed crimps.
 
Easy enough to rebuild the wires, but man those ancor ring terminals and butt splices are expensive......Just ordered ~ $165 worth of the ancor components so that I have them on hand as needed.....

I'll take some pictures and post when done this week.
 
I use Group 31 commercial batteries for 1 and 2. They fit in a 27 tray, have over 1000 CCA each and more reserve than most 27 deep cycle. They also set the bottom of plates in epoxy for longer life. Worked for Gould Battery 30 years ago out of school and learned a bit about.
 
two cents- a Yamaha mechanic told me you should have a battery with a minimum of 800 CCA for that motor.
 
warthog5":3m4qj5d7 said:
http://www.genuinedealz.com/16-14-heat-shrink-ring-terminal/dp/B00E5NJ7VG?childAsin=B00E40F6WO&field_availability=-1&field_brandtextbin=&field_browse=7179131011&field_color_map=&field_price=&field_product_site_launch_date_utc=-1y&field_size_name=&field_style_name=&field_subjectbin=&id=16-14+heat+shrink+ring+terminal&ie=UTF8&refinementHistory=brandtextbin%2Csubjectbin%2Ccolor_map%2Cprice%2Csize_name%2Cstyle_name&searchBinNameList=brandtextbin%2Csubjectbin%2Ccolor_map%2Cprice%2Csize_name%2Cstyle_name&searchNodeID=7179131011&searchPage=6&searchRank=price-asc-rank&searchSize=12

the link is broken
the main url is http://www.genuinedealz.com/
 
captcooper":xfuwhl1u said:
I use Group 31 commercial batteries for 1 and 2. They fit in a 27 tray, have over 1000 CCA each and more reserve than most 27 deep cycle. They also set the bottom of plates in epoxy for longer life. Worked for Gould Battery 30 years ago out of school and learned a bit about.

That is unusual. Most Gp31's need a specific battery tray for a Gp 31. I've run into and played with this before.

The base footprint of a Gp27 & Gp29 are the same....The 29 will be a little taller. A Gp31 has a larger base footprint. It will not fit into "Some" Gp27/Gp29 Trays.

While we are talking about Battery Trays. I really like the ones from Attwood. I must have bought almost 50 of them over the years.

They are inexpensive thru Amazon.com. They have NO metal parts. The wing bolts and crossbar are totally removed out of your way for battery removal or install.

The only thing is.....Don't over torque the wing bolts. I did have one break on me, but it was a defective molded part. Factory replaced it.

This is important as some batteries have to be slid into a tray sideways. If the hold downs stay On the tray they can be in the way. After all......battery storage on a boat is usually a secondary thought when they designed the boat.


41bgVBmahgL._SX300_.jpg
 
Had to go look at my trays. They are Moeller and fit 27, 29 and 31. Also use no metallic parts. Just now upgrading from 24's in the transom to 31's in the console on a new-to-me 2003 23DVCC w/F225. Have lots of projects on list. First batteries, second larger tabs and then need to find a leaning post, Airmar, prop, etc....... Love the boat so far!
http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarke ... xes_trays/
 

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Suggestion on your trailer......

The PVC "V"...... Get rid of it. They don't do near as good of a job to help you load and are known to shave gellcoat off the Stem on that pad.

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Go to this.....Forward Keel Bunks.

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Sorry for the late reply…..

Once I installed the cluster switch my problems went away. In fact I never had another starting problem for the remainder of the season, even with the current batteries. I had a few long days on the hook where I basically killed my "house" battery, and the motor started with ease by just turning the key. My long term plan is to replace the batteries with one starting and one larger series deep cycle when the need arises, but for now I have to manage expenses.

FYI- I did the full install with low power shut-off switch, and LED indicator installed in the helm area. I will post pictures for reference later.
 
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