mcyc
Well-known member
I was cleaning my boat yesterday and found a carck located near my bilge pump. Can someone help me post pictures of the damage. Once i get the pictures up can you guys give me an idea of how bad the damage is.
Bilge Crack
- Thread starter mcyc
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miky2884
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mcyc
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/60587134@N07/5526762296/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60587134@N07/5526168927/
Here goes two pics of the damage.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60587134@N07/5526168927/
Here goes two pics of the damage.
GoodChance
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The hull isn't cracked.
You got some water into that plywood mounting pad; the water froze; plywood expanded; and fiberglass over the wood cracked. But again, the wood isn't part of the hull. It is just a mounting platform for pumps.
You got some water into that plywood mounting pad; the water froze; plywood expanded; and fiberglass over the wood cracked. But again, the wood isn't part of the hull. It is just a mounting platform for pumps.
mcyc
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As far as repairs go what should I look into doing?
miky2884
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mcyc
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Thanks For the help with the pictures.
GoodChance
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Three things you can do:
1) Ignore it (again, the crack isn't structural)
2) Put a thin "smear" of 5200 across the crack so that no additional water gets in there and makes the matter worse.
3) remove the pump and switch; take a grinder in there, remove all of the damaged wood and glass; keep rtemoving all wood until you find prefectly dry wood (might be the entire pad); replace the removed portion; and re-glass and tab back to the hull.
I would probably do #3 but only beacuse I have the tools and materials to do at my easy disposal. It is only a 2-hr job if you have the tools.
1) Ignore it (again, the crack isn't structural)
2) Put a thin "smear" of 5200 across the crack so that no additional water gets in there and makes the matter worse.
3) remove the pump and switch; take a grinder in there, remove all of the damaged wood and glass; keep rtemoving all wood until you find prefectly dry wood (might be the entire pad); replace the removed portion; and re-glass and tab back to the hull.
I would probably do #3 but only beacuse I have the tools and materials to do at my easy disposal. It is only a 2-hr job if you have the tools.
mcyc
Well-known member
#3 it is. Thanks guys again for all the help. I got a little nervous that i might miss Striper season.
jeffnick
Well-known member
I'd just swipe it w/ 5200.
grouperjim
Well-known member
nothing to worry about.........just a scrap piece of plywood that is glassed in to be used to screw equipment into.
something screwed into it wasn't sealed properly and allowed a little moisture to get past the screw and into the wood. i personally would remove everything screwed into it, grind out and bevel the crack, then fill with gelcoat, brush gelcoat over the whole pad, and sand. never know it was there.
properly seal the screws when you reinstall everything.
FWIW if you remove the plywood pad, there is about a 1/8 or so air gap between the bottom of the plywood pad and the solid glass hull underneath.
something screwed into it wasn't sealed properly and allowed a little moisture to get past the screw and into the wood. i personally would remove everything screwed into it, grind out and bevel the crack, then fill with gelcoat, brush gelcoat over the whole pad, and sand. never know it was there.
properly seal the screws when you reinstall everything.
FWIW if you remove the plywood pad, there is about a 1/8 or so air gap between the bottom of the plywood pad and the solid glass hull underneath.
gw204
Well-known member
I had to make a similar repair on my old Grady...
1. Cut the top skin off the block and pop the block from the hull.
2. Grind the area to prep it for the bedding of a new block and a layer of glass over it. I had to go larger on my repair area as I had a crack under the block and wanted to lay down lots of glass to make sure it was strong. Your's won't be near this bad.
3. Cut the new block, position the pump & float switch, mark the location of the screws, drill screw holes oversize and fill w/ thickened epoxy.
4. Bed the new block in epoxy thickened w/ cabosil and then put one or two layers of glass over it. I think I used one layer of light mat and one layer of 12 oz. cloth. Probably more than was really necessary.
5. Sand the area once cured and drill the screw pilot holes before the next step. That way you can still see the epoxy plugs and can hit them dead center.
6. Gelcoat.
7. Drill your final screw holes and bed the pump and float switch with your favorite caulking. Should should be able to at least see dimples in the gelcoat where your pilot holes are.
1. Cut the top skin off the block and pop the block from the hull.
2. Grind the area to prep it for the bedding of a new block and a layer of glass over it. I had to go larger on my repair area as I had a crack under the block and wanted to lay down lots of glass to make sure it was strong. Your's won't be near this bad.
3. Cut the new block, position the pump & float switch, mark the location of the screws, drill screw holes oversize and fill w/ thickened epoxy.
4. Bed the new block in epoxy thickened w/ cabosil and then put one or two layers of glass over it. I think I used one layer of light mat and one layer of 12 oz. cloth. Probably more than was really necessary.
5. Sand the area once cured and drill the screw pilot holes before the next step. That way you can still see the epoxy plugs and can hit them dead center.
6. Gelcoat.
7. Drill your final screw holes and bed the pump and float switch with your favorite caulking. Should should be able to at least see dimples in the gelcoat where your pilot holes are.
sparky
Well-known member
That's the perfect way to do it. Bra-freakin'-vo!gw204":g9ynr7fg said:
SBH2OMan
Well-known member
Damn, Bryan - I wish there was someone around here that did work that nice. I'd have a few projects for them!
It seems that anytime I have ANYONE do ANYTHING on our boat, one thing gets fixed and two or three things get screwed up.
(most recent example - kicker installed, but fuel gauge & FloScan quit working). Aaaaargh!
It seems that anytime I have ANYONE do ANYTHING on our boat, one thing gets fixed and two or three things get screwed up.
(most recent example - kicker installed, but fuel gauge & FloScan quit working). Aaaaargh!
gw204
Well-known member
Thanks for the kind words guys.
I have another GW at the house I'm working on for a friend. General stuff like thru-hull replacment, deck hatch rebedding, bilge pump replacment, etc. And wouldn't you know it, another rotten bilge pump block. :?
This is my favorite though...
A hole bored completely through the inner skin and into the core of a brand new transom in order to accomodate a plastic scupper that was too short. Nice work, by a "professional" shop here in Solmons, 'eh????
I have another GW at the house I'm working on for a friend. General stuff like thru-hull replacment, deck hatch rebedding, bilge pump replacment, etc. And wouldn't you know it, another rotten bilge pump block. :?
This is my favorite though...
A hole bored completely through the inner skin and into the core of a brand new transom in order to accomodate a plastic scupper that was too short. Nice work, by a "professional" shop here in Solmons, 'eh????
gw204
Well-known member
They at least knew how to bed an improperly sized scupper. I had a heck of a time getting them out and there were no signs of water intrusion.
gw204
Well-known member
Just finished another pump block last night...
For this one, I used some scrap wood left over from the first one I did. It wasn't long enough, so I had to epoxy two pieces together and the width was just barely enough to accomodate the float switch and pump base, so I couldn't cut the 45 degree bevel on the long sides. Not a big deal though. After laying a few thin strips of glass in the very bottom of the V, I put down the block using resin thickened w/ cabosil. Using the excess that squeezed out the sides when I pressed it in place, I was able to form a fillet down each side and create the bevel. It's this bevel that will allow the top layers of glass to conform w/ no voids.
I covered the block w/ a layer of 3/4 oz mat, followed by a layer of 6 oz cloth, and then a second layer of 3/4 oz. mat. In order to make it easy to find the mounting holes, I stuck a toothpick in each.
Since I was using vinylester resin for this one, I was able to put down the gelcoat before full cure was achieved. Note that that toothpicks are only useful when you don't break them off during this stage... :? No big deal though, it will be easy to find the one I broke off simply by positioning the float switch based on the non-broken toothpick.
For this one, I used some scrap wood left over from the first one I did. It wasn't long enough, so I had to epoxy two pieces together and the width was just barely enough to accomodate the float switch and pump base, so I couldn't cut the 45 degree bevel on the long sides. Not a big deal though. After laying a few thin strips of glass in the very bottom of the V, I put down the block using resin thickened w/ cabosil. Using the excess that squeezed out the sides when I pressed it in place, I was able to form a fillet down each side and create the bevel. It's this bevel that will allow the top layers of glass to conform w/ no voids.
I covered the block w/ a layer of 3/4 oz mat, followed by a layer of 6 oz cloth, and then a second layer of 3/4 oz. mat. In order to make it easy to find the mounting holes, I stuck a toothpick in each.
Since I was using vinylester resin for this one, I was able to put down the gelcoat before full cure was achieved. Note that that toothpicks are only useful when you don't break them off during this stage... :? No big deal though, it will be easy to find the one I broke off simply by positioning the float switch based on the non-broken toothpick.