Fuel fill hose comments

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One tip for anyone doing this job...

If you need a little more room in the deck for your hands, or the hose, snap the deck cover in place and remove the screws from the outside ring and lift the whole assembly out of the deck as one unit.
Doing that will expose the rough-cut factory hole and will give you about another inch of room.

When you are finished with your new hose install, re-install the deck hatch (again, as a single unit) sealing it to the deck with a thin coat of silicone sealant.
Don't use too much silicone or it'll squirt all over the deck, but use enough so water doesn't get past the hatch under the ring.

Hope this helps.
 
TomS":y1i264gf said:
Thanks for posting the updated info.. I was thinking about tackling this project this spring, but now I'm not so sure.. kinda falls into the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' category at this point for me.

What did you end up using as a sealant/adhesive?
Tom:

I'll be doing my '92 this year. Tell you what, you help me with mine and I'll help you with yours!

I'd recommend Permatex #2 as THE hose/gasket sealer for use on boats as a flexible, non-hardening, heavy duty, sealing compound that allows for removal, if ever needed. Permatex makes a great flow chart to pick the correct product here and as attached below:
http://www.permatex.com/documents/Gaske ... lector.pdf
 

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Just finished inspecting the fuel fill hose on my 99 23' dvsc. Mine does not have the cracking in the pics above. Sniff test also passes without any traces of gasoline. The pics below confirms why Tim had a heck of a time replacing the hoses. On the 23 PH, I would have to cut an inspection port near the fill cap to get at the 2 clamps. So I'll just keep an open eye and nose for any potential problem instead of proactively replacing them.
 

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As perdicted, I did have a day with winds to high to fish last week and installed my new fuel fill and vent lines. Following all reccomendations, the job went pretty smooth! Thanks everone for your input! We made it out fishing 7 times in 8 days and landed 35 Stripers up to 43". What a great week!
 
I had this job done on my boat while I was out of the country, by the technicians at BOE Marine.
I bought the hose before I left, but the AWAB clamps were backordered, so being out of time, I asked Jim to have his guys do the job while I was gone.
Looks good to me! :)

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FYI ... checked the hoses on my '92 vintage SC which are original ... and they pass the 'sniff' test and 'pinch' (heavy grab!) test. No visible cracks, no smells, nada.

FWIW my bro didn't have to change those on his '87 Grady to last year, so maybe I have another season to go or more. But I'll put it on the list for 2012 ... provided I don't sell the boat that is ;) .
 
Ok Ken, got a break.....

If you look at the photo in the first post, it is a little deceiving. When I remove my hatch, the hoses aren't really directly under it, they are sorta off to the side and I don't have small hands. That was problem #1, getting my hand in there.

I decided to remove the vent hose first to make room for the larger hose. I loosened the hose clamps on the tank side. Remember, the hose is also probably attached with a small bead of adhesive. I used a razor and split the last inch or two and was then able to pull it off the tank. I then removed the vent hose from the vent itself. I duct taped a rope to the vent side of the hose (a good bit of tape) and slowly pulled the vent hose from the tank end, out of the access plate opening. It wouldn't budge.

Problem #2.... I discovered later that the vent and fill hoses are taped together with masking tape below deck not too far from the fuel fill on the washboard. I had to YANK the vent hose hard from the washboard side to break the tape but be careful not to lose the ability to grab the hose on the tank side. I taped some rope to that side also just in case. Once I got the vent hose free from the fill hose it then came out of the floor pretty easily. I cut the rope from the vent hose and left it under the deck for the replacement.

Next came the fill hose. Same deal, take hose clamps off tank side, slice it with a razor but remember it is also reinforced with steel "belts" as well as adhesive so you'll need snippers also. Once that's off, I removed the other end from the fill neck and took the fuel fill off. This is a good time to make sure the wood core is still protected also while the fill neck is off. Tape another rope with duct tape on the fill hose and pull the hose out from the floor access. Once that is out, I had two ropes coming out of the floor and the other ends coming out of that molded glass box under the gunwale. Also I should mention, be careful NOT to lose the green grounding wire which you'll see attached to the fill neck. I almost lost mine.

Don't force these hoses when you are pulling them out. They WILL get hung up, just back up and try again…….patience…..twisting it sometimes helps.

Replacing them would be a heck of a lot easier IF the fill hose actually fits through the hole in the washboard. Mine did not. I did not have the time to enlarge the hole, having to deal with sealing the exposed core etc. So the only alternative is to start feeding it into the floor side first. I just taped one of the strings that was still under the floor to the fill hose and pulled from the other end.
One thing I found made it easier is to have someone GENTLY pulling on the string while another guy pushes on the hose. Here is where Problem #3 comes in…….Once you do get the fill hose up to the washboard, there is no where for it to go. It won't fit through the hole in the gunwale and it is too stiff to bend over and pull it out of the molded glass box that is there. So I had to feed it onto the fill neck and re-bed the fuel fill at this time. Then came the issue of getting the fill hose attached to the tank.
This hose is VERY rigid and doesn't bend much at all. 4" or so of the end was laying right next to the neck on the tank but I had a hell of a time getting it on since it really doesn't bend. I put some vaseline on the neck and used a piece of 2x4 to push it as hard as I could until it sorta "fell" on to the neck. It really needs to go past the fuel fill on the washboard, and then back toward the tank to slide over the fitting on the tank. That's not possible. I would have bet it never would have made it on but it did.

The vent hose went on pretty easily once it is fished through since it's flexible and has some slack for the loop. I was talking to a mechanic who actually had a pretty good idea once he looked at it (after I was finished). You could enlarge the hole (but you'll need a wider fuel fill flange) and you could even notch an area out so that the hose clamp would also pass through. If it's set up like this, you could leave the fill hose attached to the fuel fill and just pull it from there once it's disconnected from the tank and then reverse that to install the new hose.

Good luck, I hope I need a new tank before I have to do that again!
My hands were all chewed up and bleeding by the end of the day. :shock:
About to do my 2004 2520 and by the sounds of it we have the exact same setup! Thanks for the details. Feel free to message me with any other tips!
 
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