Garmin Shuts down unexpectedly

knotflying · Sep 18, 2022

I know what the problem is, but I do not know how to fix it. If I make a transmission on my VHF my Garmin ***** down. When I first got the boat I had this issue and the installer told me to move the negative for the Garmin to the other buss bar. It worked fine. What I just found out was that the other buss bar is for battery one. So I have never transmitted on the VHF using battery one until today and bingo, the same thing happened. So I switched over to battery two and everything works fine. Anyone have a clue as to what is going on and how to avoid this problem? I am out of warranty now and can probably hold the installer accountable, but it it is a simple fix it will be easier not to go through the hassle and I will do it myself.

Andy · Sep 18, 2022

knotflying said:
I know what the problem is, but I do not know how to fix it. If I make a transmission on my VHF my Garmin ***** down. When I first got the boat I had this issue and the installer told me to move the negative for the Garmin to the other buss bar. It worked fine. What I just found out was that the other buss bar is for battery one. So I have never transmitted on the VHF using battery one until today and bingo, the same thing happened. So I switched over to battery two and everything works fine. Anyone have a clue as to what is going on and how to avoid this problem? I am out of warranty now and can probably hold the installer accountable, but it it is a simple fix it will be easier not to go through the hassle and I will do it myself.

Hope your Garmin's wearing a diaper ☺

Navigator · Sep 19, 2022

I would start by making sure you have the correct voltage to both units, clean connections, and a known good battery.

Antidote · Sep 19, 2022

Navigator said:
I would start by making sure you have the correct voltage to both units, clean connections, and a known good battery.

And that all of your batteries have a common ground.

warthog5 · Sep 19, 2022

You have a Supply problem.......Now....Exactly what that is can't be told.....Because I can't see it or measure it. It's what YOU don't see or explain that are Important.

It is one of the reason's I push BEP Batt Clusters.

You see with your Perko switch you do Not have a dedicated House battery to run all House items....Electronics being one of them.

Which ever Batt you select 1 or 2.....The other just sits there.....The selected batt runs the engine and all House functions.

When reading your post....Initially...I figured someone shared a circuit that was overpowered when Transmit was hit.

With a BEP....The Start batt is just to run the engine.....The House runs everything else....and with them seperate......With electronics ON.....and you hit the key to start the engine....you don't get a voltage drop on the electronics and spike them.

baker · Sep 19, 2022

Does this happen when the engine is off or running?

knotflying · Sep 19, 2022

The problem as I see it is only when the engine is running. I will try to see if it happens when off. It definitely happens with the battery on the negative buss I am attached to. I have only two batteries and as you may know and the switch is either 1 or 2 and then both. I have not tried to transmit when on both. I also have transmitted at 25w and not 5w. Also, if I am on number 2, no problem. If I switch to number 1 I have the problem. If I switch the ground then the problem is reverse.

Antidote · Sep 19, 2022

Your batteries should be grounded together with the positive cables going through the battery switch.

pelagic2530 · Sep 20, 2022

Your electrical system needs a good groom.

First of all, there should be no difference at the helm as far as which battery is online. The selector switch simply chooses which of the two batteries (or both of them) is powering the system. Downstream from the switch, the circuit should be exactly the same regardless of which battery is selected. The only exception is a “24 hour” circuit that is powered directly from the battery through a fuse, although there should be very few things hooked up to that circuit- bilge pumps, stereo memory, maybe a CO detector if applicable.

Second, as others have mentioned, all of your negatives should be connected. I’m not sure why you have two, other than perhaps one was added to increase capacity. Regardless, they should all be connected at the main negative bus (ideally) or at the battery negative post (more common). The negative posts on the batteries should also be connected. So as far as the negative side goes, the position of the switch is completely irrelevant (assuming things are wired correctly).

Where are you located? There are several members on here who operate repair services who may be able to offer you some assistance. If not, there are many others who are pretty proficient who may be willing to lend a hand.

1801Steve · Sep 21, 2022