Jackplate on a 1801?

[Longislandfish]

Hey all,

I am contemplating running a jackplate on my 1801. Thus far, I have been playing around with optimizing the outboard height as the AC plate was buried below the surface pretty good from the stock mounting holes from Parker on the 1801. I brought the engine all the way on its bracket on my transom and it still is below the surface whiles it perfectly trimmed for WOT. The hull responds better on plane and turns a lot better, I am running an scd4 13x16p and Turning to roughly 5800-5900 rpm’s. I have a pretty well loaded boat with trolling motor and 3 batteries which are located in the console.The motor is a 25 inch shaft with a 25 inch transom so I know that’a not the issue. I have good water pressure and have a feeling jacking it up another 3/4 to an inch it will be awesome.

my hesitation currently lies with the Uflex steering that I have installed and the clearance issues with trim and tilt after setting back the motor 6-8inches. I cannot find anyone Running a jack plate or any pictures of one on an 1801 with hydraulic steering. I am currently leaning towards a manual plate as I can’t justify dropping 1000 on a hydro plate. My question is, with proper bracing and lower transom stiffing plate with the forces and leverage be too great on that transom. I have read that pushing motor further aft, witching reason will help with prop slippage and bite as it’s running in cleaner water. I know the boat is a mod vee and is designed for speed, but I’m trying to squeeze every once of performance out of it. I also have an ablative paint which I cannot stand that was on the hull when I purchased and will be attempting to remove this winter.The boat is trailer kept and I have looking at the nasty painted bottom. Hoping to find someone with any information.

If I can hit 40mph with the F115 I’ll be happy.

Any information is appreciated. I saw one post of a Parker 1801 for sale and noticed he had an 8 inch setback plate and extension so that he could clear the hydraulic fittings, that’s a total of 10 inches setback and running a 150 HDPI, I imagine if he was able to run like that, 6-8inches would be okay.
View attachment 552BC5F5-8968-412D-BC34-36ABE5C31544.MP4

 

[1801Steve]

My 2015 1801 with a F115 will run 37-38 MPH. Only me aboard, trolling motor with two batteries, no t-top. A jack plate sounds like a lot of trouble and expense to gain 2-3 MPH.

 

[Longislandfish]

I have been on the fence, manual plate 300 bucks, basically lift it off the transom and clean transom holes, inject some penetrating resin and then reseal with boatlife. Not terrible in terms of cost, I’m gonna try it. Maybe throw a light weight 150HP on the back. Those wildlife Parker 1801s are awesome with the beefed up transoms to handle 200hp.

would Love a closed transom 1801 with small bracket, would be the perfect lil 20ft hull. Too bad they are stern heavy and raising the deck and reinforcing transom is deff cost prohibitive.

 

[tomc585]

Looks like yours is mounted all the way up. I've been thinking on raising mine. I have a 115 smoker with the SS OEM 17P prop. 37-38 on most days, 40 on flat days.
I think mine is also a little low in the water, it's mounted in the second hole from the top. I agree these are heavy in the stern. My stern mounted batteries aren't helping.

 

[Longislandfish]

That can come up, it’s really buried I would say you can come up .75 to 1 inch easily. That’s how my AC plate looked, once I raised it up I felt a lot more response in the power band and the hookup once on plane was better. I can still come up.

 

[tomc585]

Thats what I figured. I could probably raise it to the last (bottom) hole.

 

[Fishaddict]

You can buy my Wildlife 1801 in spring and get above 40 if weather permits

 

[Efx]

Add a 150 sho. I have a f115 on my 17. It hits 41. That’s too fast for me.

 

[tomc585]

There are rare occasions when the conditions are like glass when I wish i could go faster than 40 mph but this is where we cross a threshold into a safety and structure issue. It must put a terrible strain on the transom at those speeds when a swell/wake is hit. Cant be good. But it would be fun to do short bursts of 50mph once and a while .

 

[CobbFisherman]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm now thinking about adding a 4'' jack plate to my 1800 and would like to hear from people who have done it.

Are there any downsides? I assume a 4'' setback won't make the transom sit too low in the water? I'm running a 115 E-tec and even with 2 guys in the back my scuppers are still above water.

 

[tomc585]

Are you planning on doing a modified water pickup?

 

[CobbFisherman]

Wasn't planning to do a modified pickup. I'm not planning to go crazy high, I mostly want a 4'' setback manual jack plate to help me fine tune my engine height. I know that my motor is currently too low, but am concerned that going up one hole (3/4'') might be too high? It's a real pain to take the boat off of the lift and put it in the garage to use the engine hoist to make height adjustments. With a manual jack plate, I can fine tune my height with the boat on the lift and get the height in that perfect, in-between holes spot.
My prop shaft center to bottom of transom V distance is currently 8'', so I know I'm too low.

 

[CobbFisherman]

My biggest concern/question is that I don't want the 4'' setback to cause the boat to porpoise. The 115 E-tec is relatively light compared to a 4-stroke 150 that the boat is rated for, so I'm thinking it would be fine? The boat currently rides very flat, even with the motor trimmed up a good bit, so if the 4'' setback give me a bit of bow rise, that'd be great. I just don't want to create proposing.

 

[tomc585]

I just raised mine this past spring. Parker set it up one from the lowest setting. I was also concerned about going too high. Raised it all the way up and it's perfect.

 

[CobbFisherman]

Thanks for the pictures! Mine is also one from the lowest setting and looks like your photo on the right, with the cavitation plate completely underwater when on plane and trimmed up.

How many RPM and MPH did you pick up after raising the motor?

 

[Longislandfish]

My biggest concern/question is that I don't want the 4'' setback to cause the boat to porpoise. The 115 E-tec is relatively light compared to a 4-stroke 150 that the boat is rated for, so I'm thinking it would be fine? The boat currently rides very flat, even with the motor trimmed up a good bit, so if the 4'' setback give me a bit of bow rise, that'd be great. I just don't want to create proposing.

Couple of things. I initially was going to do the same thing hence the thread I started. I raised my motor to the highest setting because on plane my anticavitation plate was buried. I still believe it can come up more. I’m running a 4 blade and it likes to run high, but high speed turns make it want to blow out naturally since it’s already close to the surface. 4 inch setback wouldn’t be an issue at all, if you don’t have hydraulic steering than it’s even easier. The reason I mention the hydraulic is bc the ram cylinder when mounted on motor on the transom, it sits inside the boat cutout, when you put the motor on a jack plate you will be moving the cylinder aft and more inline with the actual transom surface if you catch my drift. It will make tilting the motor up and breaking your fittings a bit tricky if it aligns that way. 4 inches would be a good compromise. I want to add one as well, but was considering a full transom hull with bracket and am between modifying my hull any further at the moment. A hydraulic jack plate would help fine tune the motor for any situation whether it be more bite or high top speed or even hole shot. It’s deff not a waste of money and if I hadn’t planned on installing a radar cap I would be installing the jack plate or even a hull extension next lol

 

[CobbFisherman]

Longislandifsh, thanks for the info, you've just convinced me to order the 4'' setback jack plate.

What kind of speed / RPM increases did you get at WOT and cruise after raising your motor? I'm trying to figure out what sort of performance improvements i should expect.

Thanks again!!

 

[Longislandfish]

My biggest concern/question is that I don't want the 4'' setback to cause the boat to porpoise. The 115 E-tec is relatively light compared to a 4-stroke 150 that the boat is rated for, so I'm thinking it would be fine? The boat currently rides very flat, even with the motor trimmed up a good bit, so if the 4'' setback give me a bit of bow rise, that'd be great. I just don't want to create proposing.

Look into your prop. If you want more bow lift a 3 blade. 4 blade is more stern lifting. In the chop and following seas you want more bow lift anyhow, chop I tab down to get more of the sharp bow entry in water to help the pounding

 

[Longislandfish]

Longislandifsh, thanks for the info, you've just convinced me to order the 4'' setback jack plate.

What kind of speed / RPM increases did you get at WOT and cruise after raising your motor? I'm trying to figure out what sort of performance improvements i should expect.

Thanks again!!

I think I gained 200 rpm and just about 2 mph depending on wind and current. Then lost it with the wheelhouse lol. They are not fast hull, 45mph to 50 is probably the max but unstable at those speeds. There are no lifting strakes and the deadrise is 14. A formula 233 is a fast hull, hence all the manufacturers copied it

 

[Longislandfish]

I think I gained 200 rpm and just about 2 mph depending on wind and current. Then lost it with the wheelhouse lol. They are not fast hull, 45mph to 50 is probably the max but unstable at those speeds. There are no lifting strakes and the deadrise is 14. A formula 233 is a fast hull, hence all the manufacturers copied it

Your hull will accelerate out of the hole a lot better and you will be able to get more bite in rough chop by adjusting the plate. Max performance for any hull is a combo of engine height, prop choice and hp, I prefer acceleration and low end control as running in 2ft chop I can use the motor to punch or drop speed quickly by staying on plane