My '95 2530

[Bryan 2530]

Very nice!!

With 4 strokes and the door closed, I don't even get that drone in the pilot house. More like water rushing past the hull.

 

[miky2884]

Nice!! Congrats on the maiden voyage!!

 

[DaleH]

The plan for this week is Trim tabs install now that the trailers have been swapped and the bunks don't extend past the transom.

For that hull I'd put trim tabs sized 9" deep (maybe 12" deep) by 30" wide on each side of the stern.

 

[Phil]

Yep, that’s the cheapest vacation home you’re going to buy with all the coastal waters and anchorages in fla. Just turn on the eu2000, close the cabin door and crank up the ac... and you got a nice transom area to put the eu2000.

 

[warthog5]

For that hull I'd put trim tabs sized 9" deep (maybe 12" deep) by 30" wide on each side of the stern.

UGH! Already bought the 9in X 24's that you said to get.

 

[DaleH]

UGH! Already bought the 9in X 24's that you said to get.

Those will work!

As far as I know NO ONE has ever tried wider ... so maybe those would take waterflow AWAY from the motor, where it is on the OB bracket ... it's just something I think about, that may fall into the realm of "If this is good, then bigger should be better ..." which doesn't always turn out that way!

FYI, a good prop choice (read: premium brand, e.g., Merc Inertia or Rev4, PowerTect, etc.) can make a tremendous difference in hull attack angle and performance. The stock OEM Suzi 16" diameter by 21" pitch (actually 18" pitch) caused sooooooooooo much bow rise I had to deploy my tabs 2-3X than usual. I switched to a PowerTech 4-blade prop and it raised the stern and lowereded the bow ... and improved speed and economy by a good 10-20% or so!

Excessive cupping can cause bow rise ...

 

[warthog5]

As far as I know NO ONE has ever tried wider ... so maybe those would take waterflow AWAY from the motor

`


Bennett says 8in on either side of the motor, but I'm sure that is for a on transom motor. I didn't do any measuring to see where 30's would fall. I just set the outside edge of the tab right where the reverse chine stops and starts the V. I have them almost on. It got dark and I need some longer brass nipples than came with the tabs.

I hear ya on the prop. I was asked today what was on it? I don't have a clue? I told them.....first things first. lets get the tabs on and change the attitude. Then we'll look at motor height....Then we'll look at the prop.

This boat was pretty much Stock...like it left the factory in '95. It's my belief that the owners didn't know any better or care to make improvements. "The boat runs and we put gas and oil in and that's all they knew.

 

[DaleH]

... then we'll look at motor height ... then we'll look at the prop ...

You might want to re-think that order ... as I was just about to raise my Suzi 1-hole, but when I switched to the 4-blade PowerTech wheel, I didn't have to. I don't proclaim to be any expert, but twice now (both times 4-blades were involved) have I seen OB height changed due to the prop.

 

[warthog5]

I had actually considered that Dale.

When I was dialing in my Mako. The 2- 140's came with 3 X 14 X 18 Suzzy stainless props. The boat was run and tested with them. The props were checked....They were 1 1/2in less pitch than stamped. This is typical Suzuki. The props were then adjusted to 18.5 pitch and run.

Then the motors were raised and the Rpm would go to high. So a set of 3 X 14 X 20's were found NIB and they were adjusted to the markings on the props....Again they were actually less pitch than marked.

So that is why I considered raising the motor first.....But I do understand .....If the prop generates Stern lift then there may be no need to raise it. Raising it is no big deal to me. I have a A-Frame and com-a-Long.

 

[Megabyte]

Back home now and catching up...

I added another pair of rod holders for my outriggers and bought these Lee's from Jim at BOE.
As for the tabs, the 24x9's will be fine.

 

[warthog5]

These tabs came with 1/8 X 3in nipples. They are not long enough...It needs 4in long ones.

Set right at the edge of the reverse chine and is the recommended 3in from the outside of the chine.

Transom sealed inside where the nipple & wire for the position indicator come thru.

 

[Megabyte]

These tabs came with 1/8 X 3in nipples. They are not long enough...It needs 4in long ones.

Shows just how thick that transom actually is. 8)
You are gonna love those bigger flippers.

 

[Brent]

Great job

Did you use the 3" fittings or locate longer ones?

 

[Brent]

Did you seal the screws in 5200 or over drill the holes and added expoxy?

When you are done with your boat, you can work on mine.

thanks

 

[DaleH]

Did you use the 3" fittings or locate longer ones?

Bennett will send you free ones just for the asking ...

 

[DaleH]

Did you seal the screws in 5200 or over drill the holes and added expoxy?

FWIW that part of the hull is all frp layup ... no core ...

 

[warthog5]

Inside / outside sealed with 4200 Fast. There was a little wood shavings come out on the bit. Yea I figured they would, but that was holding me up from the install. $3.98ea at the box store for 4in ones.

We have Heat now.

 

[miky2884]

You have heat!?!
Did it get down in the 70's today? :roll:

 

[warthog5]

The A/C is still on in the house. But Jan / Feb are coming.

 

[miky2884]

haha luck lucky!!

How cold do you see temps in Jan and Feb?