NFB Steering Upgrade for Dummies ???

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SamR

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Can someone give me an overview of what is involved with upgrading direct cable steering on an 1800 to a no feedback system? Is this something that I can do solo? What would I need for tools?

Many thanks :)
Sam
 
Simple remove and replace, of existing helm and cable. Will need socket set, maybe a crescent wrench, and side-cutter pliers to nip any existing tie-wrap. Be VERY careful removing old cable as it is possible that some wires might be wrapped around it or tied to it ... so do NOT pull on anything unless you are SURE it is free to move.

In any steering upgrade I've done, it takes longer to remove old stuff and then dress the new one (like existing wiring to it for support) than it does to remove/replace the mechanical stuff.

Tips for removing your steering wheel. Use 2 people, remove the nut on tapered shaft, lube shaft with Kroil, WD40 or Blaster-removal-solvent, and then RE-INSTALL that nut a few threads. You rock the wheel back and forth while someone else wraps on the shaft with a deadblow or small sledge, but not enough to ding the existing threads. Leaving the nut on a few turns save your teeth once the wheel comes free.

Add a Steersman [see below] to the new steering cable tube if not currently equipped, as it prevents saltwater from getting in there. Also clean out your existing tilt-tube on the front of the OB with an old shotgun cleaning rod and brush.

PM, email, call me if you need/want help. Bring the boat to me [Newbury or Topsfield, MA] on a trailer and I'll help you out. We'll get CBIGMA to join in too, as he's going to do his this Spring too.

http://www.steeringguard.com/
parts2.jpg
 
Dale.... you rock. Having someone show me how to monkey around on my boat would be a huge help. email to follow. This could be the start of a formal article section on CP :)
 
DaleH":2lys5o3v said:
Tips for removing your steering wheel. Use 2 people, remove the nut on tapered shaft, lube shaft with Kroil, WD40 or Blaster-removal-solvent, and then RE-INSTALL that nut a few threads. You rock the wheel back and forth while someone else wraps on the shaft with a deadblow or small sledge, but not enough to ding the existing threads. Leaving the nut on a few turns save your teeth once the wheel comes free.


Good advice! 8)

I removed the factory wheel on my Dusky, and did not have the nut on there...
When the wheel came free, I went backwards over the leaning post and hit my head on the motor cowling.

Thankfully, the cowling wasn't damaged. :)
 
You will LOVE NFS !

IMO, better than hydraulic in a lot of ways.
 
FishFactory":pq1srccg said:
You will LOVE NFS !

I'm headed that way this Spring too. (if the NE glaciers ever melt, C'mon Global Warming! 8) ) I'm trying to find out how long my old mechanical cable is, so I can order the new NFB helm and cable assembly.

The lettering on the old cable is worn off. I sent email to the factory, but they don't keep records of items like "how long is/was the steering cable installed in a 2520 MV SC". :cry:

I'm not yet at a point where I can pull the cover completely off, and rip the old one out (Whenever I uncover early in March, we -always- get one more snow storm! :evil: )

Anyone know how long the mechanical steering cable is in your average 2520 MV with a single OB? (can't imagine the 2520XL is much different)
 
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