Prepping for bottom paint and new scuppers

[Flyliner]

Here's a link to the larger ball scuppers you're looking for

http://discountmarinesource.com/p-47018 ... fgodkk4BBQ

 

[Flyliner]

Snap some pictures inside the transom to get a shot of that tube.

 

[SBH2OMan]

Here's a link to the larger ball scuppers you're looking for

http://discountmarinesource.com/p-47018 ... fgodkk4BBQ

Yes thanks, those are the ones I ended up buying after I couldn't find a larger size with a removable cover (like the TH Marine ones). I'll have to figure out how to keep the barnacles and mussels out of them, since they sit in the water most of the time.

Btw, I talked to the yard and their hoist only has "load cells" that show relative loading from corner to corner and don't accurately show weight.

 

[Flyliner]

I'd still opt for raising the scuppers and filling the little "well"

What a ridiculous design by Parker back in the early 90's.

Either that or somewhere along the line your 2320 got "heavy"

Going back to what i was gonna say last night but didn't want to type it all on my phone....

If there is a hose between the transom and the rear bulkhead, I would cut the hose and put one of these in the middle to further prevent back flow of water coming in through the transom.

http://www.starmarinedepot.com/whale-in ... fgodaEIEnA

 

[SBH2OMan]

Thanks. I've considered a check-valve like that but I'm worried that if it clogged with fish guts or other junk it would be a mother to clear out since it would essentially be I reachable without tearing apart the transom.

 

[Flyliner]

As for the tiny old screw holes, drill them out with slightly larger bits and then spackle some fiberglass filler into the holes until you couldn't get anymore in then once it cures, sand it down so it's flat with the hull and then cover it up with some gelcoat.

Evercoat fiberglass filler should be sufficient and cheap or you can also go with the 3m high strength repair filler. Should be able to find this as well as some sand paper inside the boatyard chandlery.

I wouldn't deal with dowels.

 

[SBH2OMan]

As for the tiny old screw holes, drill them out with slightly larger bits and then spackle some fiberglass filler into the holes until you couldn't get anymore in then once it cures, sand it down so it's flat with the hull and then cover it up with some gelcoat.

Evercoat fiberglass filler should be sufficient and cheap or you can also go with the 3m high strength repair filler. Should be able to find this as well as some sand paper inside the boatyard chandlery.

I wouldn't deal with dowels.

Thanks! Is Evercoat just basically "boat Bondo"? My currently plan is to plug the 3/4" hole with a section of 3/4" birch dowel that I will flute and then install with West Systems 105 epoxy, leaving a small depression that can be filled with gel coat repair (can that be done on a vertical surface?). I'll then probably just paint the interior (inside the transom box) with some more epoxy + filler made into a paste since it isn't visible or exposed normally.

On the other small holes, my plan is to wait until the new scuppers arrive, then see if the holes match up to any of the existing holes. If they do, I will over-drill just those holes to 1/4" and then install 1/4" birch dowels so that I can re-drill for new #8 screws (after wetting out the screw holes with West Systems epoxy). The remainder of the holes that don't line up, I will either fill using a syringe and West Systems 105 + filler or with Evercoat as you've suggested.

The challenge I've had with using a putty type filler in screw holes in the past is that there always seems to be an air bubble that gets trapped inside, then when it cures, the material sinks way down. The challenge with liquid epoxy is of course the vertical surface, and being able to pull the syringe then quickly tape the hole before it oozes back out... Too bad I can't just get them to hang the boat up by the stern for a day - it would be so much easier to work on the surface if it was horizontal.

 

[Flyliner]

Yes but Evercoat or 3m has strands of chopped glass in it for strength.

Good luck with it.

Have you check out some of the other threads here. Most of the repower pictures i've seen with a bracket has the motor mounted a lot higher up on the bracket but have yielded good results.

 

[SBH2OMan]

Yes but Evercoat or 3m has strands of chopped glass in it for strength.

Good luck with it.

Have you check out some of the other threads here. Most of the repower pictures i've seen with a bracket has the motor mounted a lot higher up on the bracket but have yielded good results.

Thank you.

I am putting a 15p 4-blade Proptec OFS4 on there before it goes back in the water, then I'm planning to do a bunch of testing to get some data and compare to the Solas 3-blade thats on there now. Depending on how that goes, I may then try to pull it out onto the trailer for a day and bump the motor up a hole to do more testing. The motor does "feel" like it sits low in the water when we're not on plane. But its so hard to judge when its on a bracket as compared to a notched transom...

 

[kidfreediver]

You can also use cab o sil for the holes by injecting it with a syringe

 

[shawnee83]

You can also use cab o sil for the holes by injecting it with a syringe

That is what I've used and it works well. Here are a few things to check out. I used these to fill an old transducer hole, old trim tab holes and some holes on my cabin top when I moved my all round light. After sanding smooth, I did top with gel coat to seal it in. Turned out perfect. Syringe for holes works great. You mix the resin with the cab o sil. Good luck.

Polyester Laminating Resin-quart-includes 1 Oz Bottle of MEK Hardener
Sold by: Pro Marine Supplies
http://youtu.be/jGPAx98pZmM
http://youtu.be/N3kmr9ZctUo

 

[hammered]

Mine is a 1995 model with a notch.i will post some photos later

 

[SBH2OMan]

So there were 10 holes around each scupper, 6 for the rabud mount plates and 4 were a mystery and were filled with what looked like 5200 (and was not 100% water-right, fwiw). When i drilled out these "extra" 4 holes after picking out the 5200 remains, they were dark and wet until I over-drilled them with 1/4" bit and went about an inch deep.

I made 1/4" plugs from birch dowel rod, fluted by hand then dipped each in West Systems epoxy and inserted, tapping gently to seat them. Each was cut to land about 3mm below the painted surface of the transom.

Then I made a paste with the remaining epoxy and cabosil filler material and let it set up until it was a thick paste. I then used a putty knife to apply this to each of the holes and it was thick enough to set up without running.

Today I will drill pilot holes down through the 6 mounting locations and install the scuppers.

One question:

These ball scuppers have a flange that the ball seats against to prevent water intrusion. One side is taller than the other, and I'm trying to use "logic" to determine whether the taller side should be at 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock.

The old scuppers were mounted such that one was one way and the other was the other way, not helping me much! Also the scuppers have a locating pin on the gasket to scupper surface, but it works in either position!!

Most pictures appear to show the taller part in the 6 o'clock position which is a bit counter-intuitive...

 

[SBH2OMan]

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