Prop for 2100SE with I4 Yamaha F200

[jtcooper99]

Anyone running this motor on this hull that can let me know what prop they are using and whether it perfoms well? I am looking at the Reliance props, but wondering what pitch and diameter combination might be best. Thanks

 

[RiffraffWillie]

I have the same, 2022. Looking to see what responses you get to this thread. The dealer I bought mine from changed mine out. I'm not necessarily having issues but curious what others are using. I'll check mine and post what it is when I can look at it.

 

[StrikeOneFishin]

I have opened up this Pandora’s box on my 2022 21 SE with the I-4 f200. Mine came with a reliance 14.25 in 17pitch. I added a Jack plate (and power-Poles) which raised the motor and I was having issues getting on plane with a full load, plus max RPMs were 5000. I went down to a 4 blade at 14 pitch and had a (very) little better success with getting on plane but the engine did not run well on the top end with this prop. Engine was much louder starting around 4400 rpm also starting to have cavitation burn in the back side of the prop which was literally eating a hole in the metal. Max rpm’s was 5100 on the 4 blade. I’ve tried 3 different props going down to a 15 pitch 3 blade. 13pitch 3 blade (way too high rpm’s). I am at the 15 pitch 3 blade currently and still having planing issues but got max rpm’s up to 5400. The local prop shop does not have in stock yet a 14 pitch 3 blade which is what I believe I am going to try next. Side note, I have the two house batteries in the aft plus a 36 v lithium (only 34 lbs) in the aft platform. I was planning on moving batteries to the console eventually. I also upgraded the leaning post to a 45 gallon which added some weight to the aft as well. Love the boat and the setup, hate how it runs with this motor and prop issues.

 

[Bodick93]

I have opened up this Pandora’s box on my 2022 21 SE with the I-4 f200. Mine came with a reliance 14.25 in 17pitch. I added a Jack plate (and power-Poles) which raised the motor and I was having issues getting on plane with a full load, plus max RPMs were 5000. I went down to a 4 blade at 14 pitch and had a (very) little better success with getting on plane but the engine did not run well on the top end with this prop. Engine was much louder starting around 4400 rpm also starting to have cavitation burn in the back side of the prop which was literally eating a hole in the metal. Max rpm’s was 5100 on the 4 blade. I’ve tried 3 different props going down to a 15 pitch 3 blade. 13pitch 3 blade (way too high rpm’s). I am at the 15 pitch 3 blade currently and still having planing issues but got max rpm’s up to 5400. The local prop shop does not have in stock yet a 14 pitch 3 blade which is what I believe I am going to try next. Side note, I have the two house batteries in the aft plus a 36 v lithium (only 34 lbs) in the aft platform. I was planning on moving batteries to the console eventually. I also upgraded the leaning post to a 45 gallon which added some weight to the aft as well. Love the boat and the setup, hate how it runs with this motor and prop issues.

Man, I can't believe it would have a prop that didn't allow max rpm (6000) from the factory. That is a dealer problem, friend. That should have had a system matched Yamaha prop in the console when it was sitting at the dealer. You REALLY need to get those WOT rpms up to 6k. That is trimmed of course.

 

[Chilli]

Not to misdirect you, however, my 2022 2120SC came w/ a Reliance three blade SS ''15M over 14 1/2'' on the F200.
Max RPM is 5700, reached only after tickling the tilt & tabs. Max speed is 41+ mph.

I came from a F250 VMAX on a 24 Crevalle. It never reached over 5700 RPM. Max speed was 57-58mph.
6 or 8 inch jack plate

My service dept is great but no one seems to totally understand Propping

It would be good to have a Parker thread here for the Mystery Prop solutions.

 

[Gsully23]

Man, I can't believe it would have a prop that didn't allow max rpm (6000) from the factory. That is a dealer problem, friend. That should have had a system matched Yamaha prop in the console when it was sitting at the dealer. You REALLY need to get those WOT rpms up to 6k. That is trimmed of course.

6k is too high.....56-58 is the sweet spot. Yes parkers come over propped and with the engine height too low (atleast before the ownership change a few years back). To start off, there is no need for a stainless prop on an i4, there's no need. An i4 will not flex it, and stainless is awfully heavy for an i4. I swapped mine out for aluminum on my 21se, I was only getting 52-53 wot with factory stainless with a 17p and 14.25 (factory and motor raised one hole from factory). Great fuel economy, but no ass to get over waves or through inlets. I'm 15x15 I believe now and get 57-59 if I'm wayyyy trimmed. Also people remember, the trim readings on the newer CL is different. Earlier models gauge equals trim/tilt, newer style is just trim before it reads full up and starts flashing.

 

[Bodick93]

6k is too high.....56-58 is the sweet spot. Yes parkers come over propped and with the engine height too low (atleast before the ownership change a few years back). To start off, there is no need for a stainless prop on an i4, there's no need. An i4 will not flex it, and stainless is awfully heavy for an i4. I swapped mine out for aluminum on my 21se, I was only getting 52-53 wot with factory stainless with a 17p and 14.25 (factory and motor raised one hole from factory). Great fuel economy, but no ass to get over waves or through inlets. I'm 15x15 I believe now and get 57-59 if I'm wayyyy trimmed. Also people remember, the trim readings on the newer CL is different. Earlier models gauge equals trim/tilt, newer style is just trim before it reads full up and starts flashing.

Just because it will achieve 6k, doesn't mean you run it at 6k. It simply means it is "geared" correctly and you are not lugging the motor. Lugging any motor, ever (except for a 12valve Cummins haha) is detrimental to its long term health. Not my opinion, everything everywhere says the same thing.
If you can only get 5500 rpm, you need to go down 2" in pitch. 1" equals 200 r/m.
I saw a thread in the prop section where they were putting a 15" Reliance prop on the F200s and getting the proper RPM.
Keep in mind Yamaha made those props for the 4 cylinder motors.
Owners of 21se with f200 help please

 

[tomc585]

To start off, there is no need for a stainless prop on an i4, there's no need. An i4 will not flex it, and stainless is awfully heavy for an i4.

Say what?

 

[StrikeOneFishin]

Just because it will achieve 6k, doesn't mean you run it at 6k. It simply means it is "geared" correctly and you are not lugging the motor. Lugging any motor, ever (except for a 12valve Cummins haha) is detrimental to its long term health. Not my opinion, everything everywhere says the same thing.
If you can only get 5500 rpm, you need to go down 2" in pitch. 1" equals 200 r/m.
I saw a thread in the prop section where they were putting a 15" Reliance prop on the F200s and getting the proper RPM.
Keep in mind Yamaha made those props for the 4 cylinder motors.
Owners of 21se with f200 help please

I am just trying to get the prop to spin fast enough to help get on plane. I have a 14 pitch on order and should be here Friday or next Monday. I’ll keep everyone posted

 

[Bodick93]

Man, it's a shame you can't try the 15" reliance. They were made to limit prop rattle on those 4 cylinder motors. The search for the perfect ride is fun but expensive!

 

[StrikeOneFishin]

Man, it's a shame you can't try the 15" reliance. They were made to limit prop rattle on those 4 cylinder motors. The search for the perfect ride is fun but expensive!

I have a 15 pitch Power Tech version of the Reliance called the REL on there now and I am waiting to get the 14 pitch power tech REL.

 

[Gsully23]

Say what?

Sorry, I had a few beers before I wrote that.

Let me clarify the reason I got higher rpms while changing from stainless to aluminum is due purely to size/pitch. I was just saying there is no need for a stainless prop on any of yamahs inline 4 engines.

Save the money, buy an extra to have around "just in case". Any V engine and up I would say go stainless though, but only once you know exactly what size you'd like to run.