Removing Existing Corrossion on Wiring?

[TomS]

I'm posting this for a friend of mine.. any help appreciated. My assumption is that once corrossion has been built up to the point that there is a voltage drop, it is not just on the connectors, but has also started to get into the wiring, and things should need to be replaced, with the appropriate preventative measures.

If I had to try something to try and clean up the existing stuff, I'd probably try PB-Blaster, spray on liberally and let it soak for a bit, scrub with a wire brush, then hit it again and repeat. Anyone tried this approach?

-- Tom

Noticed the terminal leads on a few of my switches on the electronic control panel on my grady are getting some build up. Was affecting my console going up and down. My voltage meter (hand held) detected a 3/4 volt difference between the switch and where it connects to the motor that lifts the console box. Just enough variation to make it not go up/down.

Short of a wire brush is there anything I can spray on to remove any build up?

If not I'll have to snip off the female leads w/ the wires and reconnect. Sort of a pain in the ass cuz they are all daisy chained together.

Anyone got a product that helps breakdown corrosion on electronic terminal leads/connectors?

 

[DaleH]

If the wire itself has turned 'black' I cut it back and reconnect a new termination. That is also one reason as to 'why?' I make sure to leave 8" or more of slack for working room and eventual replacement. That said, since I started using tinned wire and adhesive-lined heatshrink tubing, I've yet to detect a voltage drop or replace a wire or connector.

If doing the connector itself, I use sandpaper or a brass or stainless wire brush, then apply a liberal amount of dielectric grease.

If the wire he has turns out not to be tinned (will look siver) but is copper strands only, I'd replace the entire run. Also remember that corrosion creates heat which ADDS to the resistance, thereby cutting the current flow. If above 10-volts I don't think it was the voltage drop per se that caused the device to fail, but I'd bet it was the peak starting voltage and the corrosion that is the problem. Maybe even the wire size isn't correct for the amp load.

 

[TheOtherLine]

Dale,

I read some of your posts on the use of dielectric lube and other coatings when wiring new electronics.

I just got a new boat and, of course, all the wires are already connected to the terminals. How would you suggest I "treat" those connections so that I minimize corrosions going forward?

 

[TheOtherLine]

Is there such thing as a wiring schematic on these boats? I'd like to label or code the wires coming in behind the helm station so I don't have to trace a wire if I need to work on a line.
Anyone know if one is available or where to get it?

 

[rangerdog]

Mine came with the schematic. Its not necessarily always "right" though.

 

[TheOtherLine]

Mine came with the schematic. Its not necessarily always "right" though.

Just called the dealer. He said they don't come with schematics or a manual of any type for that matter. I will call the manufacturer and see what they have available. Thanks

 

[Outta Here]

Mine came with the schematic. Its not necessarily always "right" though.

Just called the dealer. He said they don't come with schematics or a manual of any type for that matter. I will call the manufacturer and see what they have available. Thanks

I've bought 3 Parkers, all 3 came with a wiring schematic in the zippered Parker Packet. Your dealer can have a schematic faxed to him if he wants. There is no owners manual although the Yamaha info is/was in my packet.

 

[TheOtherLine]

[/quote]I've bought 3 Parkers, all 3 came with a wiring schematic in the zippered Parker Packet. Your dealer can have a schematic faxed to him if he wants. There is no owners manual although the Yamaha info is/was in my packet.[/quote]

After you said that, I went back to the packet of manuals and found the schematic tucked in a plastic baggie. THANKS!!