Soft spot in deck

[Minorcian Mullet]

It always starts off easy.

 

[windknotnc]

It seems like round floor hatches almost create more problems than they solve.

 

[Megabyte]

It seems like round floor hatches almost create more problems than they solve.

Not uncommon if the hatches are not maintained properly.
The o-rings are cheap and should be replaced annually.
Also, the o-rings should be lubricated with something like snap and zipper lube to keep them pliable and help in sealing out water.
It is a maintenance item that is easily missed.

 

[Minorcian Mullet]

Had to cut out a good bit more to find good wood and square up the project. If only the previous owner had taken a bit more proactive stance with deck plate maintenance. Oh but how I LOVE a good project!!

 

[Andy]

Not uncommon if the hatches are not maintained properly.
The o-rings are cheap and should be replaced annually.
Also, the o-rings should be lubricated with something like snap and zipper lube to keep them pliable and help in sealing out water.
It is a maintenance item that is easily missed.

I'm in total agreement with Megabyte. But the problem I have is finding the 'O' rings for mine, and other Parker boats.... Parker has changed the brand and type of Deck Plates numerous times over the years, and it is difficult to know which one/brand/type you have. Please don't respond saying to contact Parker, and certainly not the dealer. I have not had good luck getting viable information from either.

 

[Minorcian Mullet]

Got the plywood cut and fitted onto the deck and glassed in today. I’m happy with the way it went in and still need to feather the seams should go easy enough. I’m thinking about NOT installing the 2 pry outs at this time. I have new ones but I am thinking about leaving them off until I need to get in there to cut the deck and install them then. I may be cutting them in 2 weeks or it could be 5 years before I have an issue where I need to get access.

 

[warthog5]

. Please don't respond saying to contact Parker, and certainly not the dealer. I have not had good luck getting viable information from either.

LOL Yea....Call a Rubber dealer.....We have 2 in our town.....Rubber & Gasket and Rubber and Specialties..


As to not cutting the deck....Thats a mistake. Now you can't check or replace your sending unit.....Cutting it later........Hmmmmm? What ya gonna do when the Jigs saw blade is running into vital things?

The O Rings a NOT the problem.... Yes they are a different problem.


The problem is moisture leaking past the screws that hold the deckplates in.

The fix is....Overboaring the screw holes.....Back filling them with epoxy/Cabisol mix...Then redrilling the holes.... Now you have created a protective barrier that if moisture does get in.....It's not in contact with the wood.

 

[Minorcian Mullet]

I would probably use a rotary saw set at 1”. Plenty of clearance. It’s actually how I will cut the bilge access in. Have saved measurements for center of pryouts. I set my cooler in the center of the deck and it doesn’t sit flush anyway over the pryouts.

 

[Megabyte]

I'm in total agreement with Megabyte. But the problem I have is finding the 'O' rings for mine, and other Parker boats.... Parker has changed the brand and type of Deck Plates numerous times over the years, and it is difficult to know which one/brand/type you have. Please don't respond saying to contact Parker, and certainly not the dealer. I have not had good luck getting viable information from either.

On the backside of the plate is the manufacturer, a part number, (and on mine), the date of manufacture.
I simply went online and ordered them direct.

 

[Andy]

On the backside of the plate is the manufacturer, a part number, (and on mine), the date of manufacture.
I simply went online and ordered them direct.

Thank you! I had checked that a couple years ago. The ones on our boat are, "Innovative Products Solutions" Part #M-6AP , (www.gotops.com.... but they have been out of business for years). I can find some of the Innovative Products deck plates online, but so far I can't find just the O-rings.... Does anyone know if there is a 'generic' size where other brands would work?

 

[capecodparker2320]

I was able to find o-rings for my deckplates at McMaster-Carr. I measured the o-rings and sealing grooves as best as I could and ordered them. The o-rings need to be slightly smaller in diameter than the deck plate. O-rings are molded in standard sizes and it’s unlikely any deck plate manufacturer would go thru the extra expense of a custom seal.

 

[pbusanga]

Nice job. But why didn't you use a composite Instead of ply to avoid future rotting. Then no problem with your hatches causing rot either.

 

[Minorcian Mullet]

top coat of Gelcoat with non skid added. Still have to cut hatch for bilge well. Getting closer.

 

[Andy]

I was able to find o-rings for my deckplates at McMaster-Carr. I measured the o-rings and sealing grooves as best as I could and ordered them. The o-rings need to be slightly smaller in diameter than the deck plate. O-rings are molded in standard sizes and it’s unlikely any deck plate manufacturer would go thru the extra expense of a custom seal.

Good info! I'll do some measurements and try McMasters-Carr.... Mine are in good shape right now, but they are over 6 years old. I keep them 'lubed', but I'd rather re-bed the hatches and replace the seals ahead of time. I don't want to deal with rotted a deck; I don't have the skills, to deal with that.

 

[SBH2OMan]

This is why I installed the pie tin hatch covers with white silicone sealant after we completely re-did our back deck (and gas tank) last year. It was definitely a contributing factor to the tank corrosion, which appeared to be mostly at the back immediately under the pie tin (which is often washed in seawater because of the scuppers being underwater). I figure that RTV is easy enough to pick loose every five years or so when I need to replace or check the sending unit (I replaced that when I replaced the tank).

 

[pelagic2530]

Like Warthog said earlier, the deck rot issue is most likely not related to the O-rings. The rot is due to the core being exposed to moisture, either through the screw holes or the hole cutout itself. The only way to be sure that those are protected is to completely remove the hatch body, scrape/sand off any old sealant around the hole (I use a sanding disk in a Dremel) until you get down to clean, solid wood core, and then seal the whole cutout with several coats of epoxy.

For the screw holes, over drill the holes to a size significantly bigger than the diameter of your fasteners, making sure not to break through the bottom layer of glass. An easy way to do this is to measure the thickness of the core, then put a piece of tape on your drill bit to make sure you don't drill deeper than the core. If you do break through, tape off the bottom of the hole with a good strong tape (I prefer Gorilla tape). Seal the edges of the hole with the same epoxy you're using to seal the cutout, a Q-tip works well to get into the hole. Then, while the epoxy is still curing, fill the over drilled holes with thickened epoxy, dripping it in slowly to ensure you don't trap any air bubbles at the bottom of the hole. You can also poke it with a toothpick to release any air bubbles, adding more thickened epoxy afterward. Once the epoxy has fully cured, drill a hole in each epoxy "plug" to fit the fastener you're using to install the hatch, again making sure not to drill all the way through the plug with the tape trick.

Your core is now adequately protected from water intrusion, which will protect the wooden core material from rot. Waterproofing the hatch installation and maintaining the O-ring will not do this reliably, at least not for very long. However, doing so is important to keep water out of the tank compartment and surrounding foam, in order to protect the tank from corrosion and avoid accumulating water.

To install the hatch, insert it into the cutout bedding it with a sealant such as LifeCalk. 5200/4200 sealant/adhesives are NOT necessary in this situation, since the hatch is being held in mechanically by the fasteners, so you just need the sealant properties without the adhesive which will make it difficult to remove in the future. I would not recommend using a silicone-based sealant, as if you do need to remove the hatch in the future the remaining cured silicone will prevent you from being able to apply new sealant. A thin bead around the hatch will be sufficient. Tighten the fasteners so that the hatch is secure and the sealant isn't "oozing" out the edges of the hatch body. A small amount of squeezeout is acceptable, but too much risks creating an incomplete seal as there will be an insufficient amount left under the hatch body. For easy sealant cleanup, tape can be laid out around the installation area of the hatch, and the edge of the hatch (dry fit before final installation) traced out on the tape. Cut along the tracing with an Xacto knife, and remove the tape underneath where the hatch will seat. Then, upon final insulation, any squeezed out adhesive can be easily removed with the tape WHILE STILL WET. If it is allowed to cure it may bond with the tape and make removal very difficult.

 

[Hali-Bootie]

Good info! I'll do some measurements and try McMasters-Carr.... Mine are in good shape right now, but they are over 6 years old. I keep them 'lubed', but I'd rather re-bed the hatches and replace the seals ahead of time. I don't want to deal with rotted a deck; I don't have the skills, to deal with that.

i found the correct o-rings for the Innovative Product Solutions Part # M-6AP. see below pic

 

[Hali-Bootie]

Oringsandmore

 

[Bodick93]

The piece from innovative products on the right is installed on my '19. I use lifeseal to "glue" the cover to the base. Takes a slight effort to remove, but it is sealed. Just an option.
I appreciate your take on it too though, for sure.

 

[southofblock]

Removing the snap out deck access plates and properly embedding better ones appears to be essential. Plan to do this is Fall and install Armstrong plates, I think three needed on deck of a 2501. These plates are about 1” to 1.5” deep and larger diameter and sit above deck by 1/4” or so.
Is there enough depth below deck to clear?
Can deck be routed to allow plates to sit flush?
I plan to thru bolt, not screw, if have access beneath.

Heard from Parker dealer that Parker joined up and now Coosa used throughout.