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Pulled out a lot more wires and it is looking better and should ride higher. Lol Definitely easier to work on. Must have removed a hundred tie wraps and a mile of electrical tape.

I installed 2 batteries in aft corner in new Atwood battery trays. Thanks Warthog. Relocated salt water pump towards the starboard tuna door and the hose bib moved to starboard corner. All new battery cables. Shorten motor start cables several feet and new terminals. Negative bus bar in aft bilge but high. Bilge is cleaner but more cleaning. Removed Yamaha binnacle, throttle and wiring to the kicker which we don’t use and taken off years ago. I will look to manual control tiller. Removed fuel valve for it off fuel filter head and plugged. Negative or bonding wire from negative bus bar to fuel tank installed. Fuel sender wire will be cut and new Ancor butt connectors tomorrow along with capping the second tank pickup port. Installed 2 Noco Genius battery . charger. One for each location.

The first owner installed 8 golf cart batteries as one bank with two Siemens solar panels on top and 110 volt inverter. After a lot of thinking, the panels are ugly but still work after checking voltage and amperage. I am keeping the solar system, update it and will replace panels with new as soon as I research it. Maybe install across the bimini frame. I will add new MPPT solar controller and add a switch or disconnect which it didn’t have and run all new wires. I bought 2 new 6 volt golf cart batteries 2GC and battery boxes for this bank and will serve as house bank, too. I have a huge storage on starboard side in the cabin. Now more storage room with only 2 batteries in it. Need to add switch from it to helm and rewire windlass to this bank. Added a charger to this bank. Solar panels will help charge it when we overnight. Both chargers have protected 110 V outlets and plugged into shore power at the dock or lift.

Wiring to Garmin and Vhf radio re done and looks a lot better. Installed a new horn and wiring. I hope the horn lasts for a couple of years. Sport pilot is working.


I am not doing all of the work. I found a local rigger and electrical to speed up the project install . Too much up and down on new new hips.

Lots of new wiring going in and using conduit or loom on big wires.

Left to do list
Install antenna, 12 circuit fuse panel in helm, clean up helm wiring and remove orphans, re wire windlass and clean up wiring inside rode locker to better protect the wire. Found one broken wire to a running light. Forward bilge pump has new wire connections and hose. Aft pump needs new connections but negative wire is done and on bus bar. Add switch from forward battery bank to helm, cap off extra fuel pickup. Pull Yamaha dash guages and send out to Guage Savers. I hope it works as new ones are pricy.

Replace bond wire from tank to fuel fill.

Solar panel refitting on hold. Same for new steering hoses, throttle controls and replace Seastar steering ram with Uflex unit. Helm pump is fine. Need to add another rod holder to replace old 2 stroke oil fill port on transom

I have not researched these items yet and open to any comments and recommendations

Pics to follow






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110 V outlet for battery charger, moved hose outlet for wash down pump, need oil fill port with rod holder. In progress pivs4
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Brent, the picture where your complete body is in the cockpit compartment... did you open that area up? My 2320, and any other one I've seen, has the hatch but you couldn't fit a wash bucket in it. I know mine has a lot of wasted room because there is a ton of space underneath it, but just curious if you modified yours or it came that way. Thanks
 
MadGar":u1h02rvn said:
Brent, the picture where your complete body is in the cockpit compartment... did you open that area up? My 2320, and any other one I've seen, has the hatch but you couldn't fit a wash bucket in it. I know mine has a lot of wasted room because there is a ton of space underneath it, but just curious if you modified yours or it came that way. Thanks

My 1994 2320 has that same area. It’s a bait well/live well of sorts and is gelcoated inside. The bottom has a brass thread out thru hull drain to either let water in or out.


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Bait well is exactly what Mark stated. It is all open and have not measured the depth. First owner made a PVC pipe salt water feed from sea water wash down pump and in the bait well, a bilge pump moved out the port side thru Hull. There is a drain plug with a long shaft to the hull bottom for another water source. I open it for cleaning and draining water and beers lubed on regular basis . Neat feature and use of the space. . The hatch leaks and replace weatherstripping several times and it helps. I need to order Z shaped type to fill all gaps. I plan to protect the pump with either PVC pipe or starboard,and use it to store fender bumpers, 5 gallon bucket , extra anchor, other stuff ?? In waterproof bags and secure items to prevent moving. I don’t use it now.


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1 saltwater wash down pump. Seacock moves easily and smoothly. Have cleaned up bilge pump wiring except negative wire to.bus bar. Replacement pump ready if this one failed

Does it need a bonding wire ?

2 . Fuel sender hatch. One wire replaced. Two left to replace. Sender and dial guage still work.


3. Switch panel
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Fuel sender and wash down pump are old. On the list to replace. Any recommendations? I plan to switch to WEMA and dont know the best pump is today. Are any repairable or just disposable?

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