TRANQUILO My Parker 2330 Build

[dbaja]

Good ideas, thank you for the recommendations. Tomorrow I’m going to cut out the de laminated fuel tank supports. I would fiberglass the marine grade plywood back in myself but I have zero experience with boat fiberglass. Should be really easy, just don’t want to buy/instal the wrong stuff.

 

[dbaja]

Removed the delaminated wet plywood and prepped it for the new supports

 

[dbaja]

Decided to instal Coosa Board instead of plywood. A bit more expensive but well worth it. Ended up doing the fiberglass work myself, still have a bit of touch up work to do but I’m quite happy with the results. New tank will be ready for pickup in just a few days

 

[dbaja]

Also installed some seadek I’ve been holding onto.

 

[dbaja]

Fuel tank instal is now complete! Very happy with the results. Initially, I was quoted 7k for the removal and installation of the tank. Plus another 3000 for fabrication/shipping of the replacement tank by the original manufacturer (RDS). This was all with a lead time of 4 months!!! Instead, I did most of the work myself and had Vinnie at American tanks in SD fabricate the tank. This was all done in about 2 weeks. All said and done it costed me 5800. I saved 4K from the initial estimate and learned a lot in the process.

 

[dbaja]

Couldn’t help but lay out the Seadek flooring I’ve been holding onto. Not installed yet but you get the idea

 

[warthog5]

No Coal Tar Epoxy ?

No 4lb density foam to lock the tank in ?

 

[dbaja]

Hey Warthog, not trying to continue the debate but I was waiting for that question! I bought all the material and was planning on installing the tank to your exact recommendations but damn near EVERY single industry pro I talked to kept saying DONT DONT DONT. That system sounded great and I’m sure if done properly it could have been bomb proof but ultimately less was better for me.

 

[StrayDog]

Couldn’t help but lay out the Seadek flooring I’ve been holding onto. Not installed yet but you get the idea

Wow!!!
I’ve been following since you first posted your intentions. You’ve handled a difficult and daunting job safely, with sound logic, hard work and personal ingenuity.

My old man used to tell me “There’s more than one way to do something well.” Looked like a lot of good choices that led to professional results. I loved the fact that the work areas always appeared organized with alot of attention to prep, ready for the bext step.

You’ve addressed so many issues and made only quality upgrades.
I’m impressed and inspired.

Hope to see you out on the water Soon.

 

[dbaja]

Wow!!!
I’ve been following since you first posted your intentions. You’ve handled a difficult and daunting job safely, with sound logic, hard work and personal ingenuity.

My old man used to tell me “There’s more than one way to do something well.” Looked like a lot of good choices that led to professional results. I loved the fact that the work areas always appeared organized with alot of attention to prep, ready for the bext step.

You’ve addressed so many issues and made only quality upgrades.
I’m impressed and inspired.

Hope to see you out on the water Soon.

Thank you for the kind words, it’s a true labor of love.

 

[warthog5]

4- 1/4in lag screws are now securing 600lbs. [100gal tank X 6lbs per gal]

I'm sure those "PRO" people said...Do Not foam it.......BUT...They do Not understand the "System".....

Yea....I would not foam a bare alum tank in like the factory does either.....and THAT is what they are basing their "PRO" info on.

 

[dbaja]

Thank you for your recommendations warthog, they helped me a lot throughout this project.

Perhaps it’s hard to tell from the photos but the fuel tank is very secure. I’ll leave out the details but the tank is locked in by the glassed in coosa board framing for the decking, wedged with starboard, and secured with 9 beefy SS lag bolts. None of which compromise quality airflow.

Something I learned from all the research I did for this project is that there is more than one way to skin a cat, none of which are perfect. But, ultimately I’m very pleased with the end result and have no doubt this tank will last a very very long time.

 

[Efx]

On another topic, nice job on the bait tank. I like the bias of having it slightly more forward to give more clear space at the stern. We have found that works best for dealing with bluefin on the 2530 extended cabin.

 

[dbaja]

On another topic, nice job on the bait tank. I like the bias of having it slightly more forward to give more clear space at the stern. We have found that works best for dealing with bluefin on the 2530 extended cabin.

Thanks, I was initially planning on glassing the tank into the transom. Weight distribution ended up changing that plan. Agreed, it gives you a much better fighting/landing space with the limited room of the extended cabin. Nice BFT!!!

 

[StrayDog]

On another topic, nice job on the bait tank. I like the bias of having it slightly more forward to give more clear space at the stern. We have found that works best for dealing with bluefin on the 2530 extended cabin.

Dbaja
There’s been some discussion on bait tanks and caulking methods to prevent water intrusion below deck.
On my tank (West Coast offshore style similar to yours) there’s a 1” plate of Starboard ct to fit inside the inner perimeter of the tank. It’s bedded to the deck and has has a hole coresponding with the feed/drain hose hole.

The purpose of this plate is to create a dam to prevent water (deck wash, ocean spray, rain) from entering under perimeter and using the hose-access-hole as a drain to the bilge.

A 1-inch piece of starboard may seem an expensive solution but not as much as wood rot and tank replacement. This piece can also b used to anchor the tank to the deck. My Tank Dam is thru-bolted to the deck.

This situation gives me a lot of confidence when it comes to an area I can’t easily inspect.

SD

 

[dbaja]

Dbaja
There’s been some discussion on bait tanks and caulking methods to prevent water intrusion below deck.
On my tank (West Coast offshore style similar to yours) there’s a 1” plate of Starboard ct to fit inside the inner perimeter of the tank. It’s bedded to the deck and has has a hole coresponding with the feed/drain hose hole.

The purpose of this plate is to create a dam to prevent water (deck wash, ocean spray, rain) from entering under perimeter and using the hose-access-hole as a drain to the bilge.

A 1-inch piece of starboard may seem an expensive solution but not as much as wood rot and tank replacement. This piece can also b used to anchor the tank to the deck. My Tank Dam is thru-bolted to the deck.

This situation gives me a lot of confidence when it comes to an area I can’t easily inspect.

SD

Great advice, thank you. Sounds similar to my current setup. Is the starboard only forwar and aft at the mounting points of the tank or is a box created around the cut out in he decking? How about 5200 around the base of the bait tank?

 

[StrayDog]

Great advice, thank you. Sounds similar to my current setup. Is the starboard only forwar and aft at the mounting points of the tank or is a box created around the cut out in he decking? How about 5200 around the base of the bait tank?

A box around the cut out would b a better description. However, my dam covers all decking except where an 8” round deck plate lives.

5200 or 4200 are good choices as a joint and base sealant. But if the dam is to act as the tanks anchor point you’ll need to thru bolt or lag it to the deck.

The dam’s outline is as If you put the tank on paper and were able to trace the tanks inner perimeter to make a pattern. You could also put the tank on a piece of soft material so an impression is made of inner pattern.

BEWARE: If the dam is built with the tank’s base edge caulked / sealed and a hose or tank leak occurs the water still has no where to go but the bilge. The dam only holds back deck water intrusion. Thats why I’ve considered using an inspection plate frame mounted to top of dam with hoses passing through using closed cell foam to seal the bilge. Then cut vertical scuppers ln the dam’s perimeter and don’t caulk the lower edge of tank, allowing water out.

Just another item on my list…..

 

[dbaja]

Great info, thanks again!

 

[Jer H]

Dog's install is similar to the attached. Wondering if a large piece of gasket-like material or rubber could be used between the dam/starboard as a seal to allow easy removal of the dam.

http://www.theoutdoorline.com/blog/post/2016/05/03/defiance-bait-tank-installation.aspx

 

[StrayDog]

Dog's install is similar to the attached. Wondering if a large piece of gasket-like material or rubber could be used between the dam/starboard as a seal to allow easy removal of the dam.

http://www.theoutdoorline.com/blog/post/2016/05/03/defiance-bait-tank-installation.aspx

I’ve never seen the article that associated with your link but that’s exactly how my tank was mounted. My tank is made by Defiance and may have been installed by them.

Not clear on where you’re suggesting to put the gasket material;
“large piece of gasket-like material or rubber could be used between the dam/starboard as a seal”