WOT- Testing Prop - 2320 with F300

[Bmoore]

Hoping to get some help determining My WOT Rpms to see if I’m propped correctly. 2 weeks a go I hit 5200 Rpm at WOT with 2 guys, full tank and full 65 gallon bait tank, but I had engine trimmed all the way down. This weekend I got to 5800 rpm at 49 MPH, but had to trim up 6 bars to get this RPM. Is this trimmed up too much for an accurate representation. I’m at 50 hours and am noticing an increase in oil level. I thought for sure I broke it in by the book, but never ran it WOT. I called Yamaha headquarters in Georgia and they told me to run at 5500 rpm’s for an hour straight and should take care of the problem. I have a 17” SWSII pitch an am trying to determine if I need to got down to a 15” pitch. I seem to be hearing run it hard....see if your propped correctly and if it keeps making oil let us know and we will discuss with Yamaha. Am I trimming way to high to reach 5800 rpm. This was max speed and max rpm. I did not trim so high that I noticed a decrease in speed. Pic attached. Thanks !!

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[Unleashed]

Not an exact comparison but my 2300dv with a 300 typically makes 5700 with 3 people and full fuel trimmed to 3 bars.
I can make 6000 with a light load.
I ran mine WOT plenty after the first 4 hours and it is getting a lot of fuel dilution in the oil. It was so bad I changed the oil at 7 hours and the 20 hour. I have 34 now and it is still "making oil". I am getting the give it 100 hours and run it hard.

 

[Bmoore]

Thanks for the feedback. Crazy to think these engines can get fuel dilution in the oil so easily. Just doesn’t make since... sounds like you broke your engine in better than I did. My dealer just wants to keep an eye on it and take it up with Yamaha if it continues. I’m also curious about the fuel smell in oil and how much is acceptable. Is it normal for oil to smell like fuel ? Maybe a little or something...Or is there suppose to be zero fuel smell ?


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[warthog5]

I broke it in by the book, but never ran it WOT in the first 30-40 hrs.

That's Totally wrong.

It is fully broken in in 10hrs is you follow the steps.

ENGINE BREAK-IN

The first 10 hours are critically important to ensure correct running of either a brand new motor or a motor that has been reconditioned or rebuilt. How the motor is operated during this time will have direct bearing on its life span and long-term durability.

Break-in period : 10 hours

WARM-UP RECOMMENDATION

Allow sufficient idling time (more than 5 minutes) for the engine to warm up after cold engine starting .

THROTTLE RECOMMENDATION

NOTE: Avoid maintaining a constant engine speed for an extended period at any time during the engine break-in by varying the throttle position occasionally.

1. FIRST 2 HOURS

For first 15 minutes, operate the engine in-gear at idling speed. During the remaining 1 hour and 45 minutes, operate the engine in-gear at less than 1/2 (half) throttle (3000 r/min).

NOTE: The throttle may be briefly opened beyond the recommended setting to plane the boat, but must be reduced to the recommended setting immediately after planning.

2. NEXT 1 HOUR Operate the engine in-gear at less than 3/4 (three-quarter) throttle (4000 r/min).

3. LAST 7 HOURS Operate the engine in-gear at desired engine speed. However, do not operate continuously at full throttle for more than 5 minutes.

Weight , seas, trim tab position , engine trim , engine mounting height, prop dimensions all have to do with RPM


A 62gal livewell full weighs 514lbs by the way.


Yes fuel delutes the oil....Known as making oil. on break in....after first 20hrs.....then at the 100hr mark.

after that....Every 100hrs OR Once a year....What ever comes first.

 

[Bmoore]

Thanks Warthog. I agree, but if running WOT was so important during break in ( which I agree it is ). They should say something like “ be sure to bring engine up to WOT for a few minutes every hour between hours 3-7 during break in “ I bet a lot of people that just go by the book make this mistake. Either way.... I’m not so sure this 10 hr thing is really the only factor, as mentioned above his new engine is showing fuel dilution and he ran it WOT.


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[Bmoore]

Thanks Warthog. I agree, but if running WOT was so important during break in ( which I agree it is ). They should say something like “ be sure to bring engine up to WOT for a few minutes every hour between hours 3-7 during break in “ I bet a lot of people that just go by the book make this mistake. Either way.... I’m not so sure this 10 hr thing is really the only factor, as mentioned above his new engine is showing fuel dilution and he ran it WOT. That’s what led me to start testing checking if I’m propped right. I currently have the SWS11 17” pitch and will see what #’s I get with the bait tank full and another person on the boat. If I don’t get between 5500-5800 rpms I might consider the same propellor in a 15” pitch, but didn’t want to underprop too much either. Thanks again !


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[shawnee83]

I had a port side thermostat stick open on mine when it failed and mine started “making oil” as they say. It can come from running cold and it causes this along with a loss of power. Mine had over 280 hrs when this happened and I hadn’t gotten to changing out the thermostat yet as I was early in my ownership. As your motor is new/almost new, this shouldn’t be happening but???? Maybe something to have the techs at the dealership check out or insist the change both of them out? Just throwing it out there. Good luck.

 

[Bmoore]

Thanks Shawnee. The T-Stats looked good but dealer replaced them to rule out that variable. I’ll be sure to update as time goes on for anyone else with a similar issue. Thanks !


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[Bmoore]

I had a port side thermostat stick open on mine when it failed and mine started “making oil” as they say. It can come from running cold and it causes this along with a loss of power. Mine had over 280 hrs when this happened and I hadn’t gotten to changing out the thermostat yet as I was early in my ownership. As your motor is new/almost new, this shouldn’t be happening but???? Maybe something to have the techs at the dealership check out or insist the change both of them out? Just throwing it out there. Good luck.

hey Shawnee. If I’m trying to determine max rpms to see if I’m propped correctly for my boat weight ( w/ full bait tank etc... ) do you think I have engine trimmed out too far to achieve this Rpm / speed I stopped trimming when I could t get any more speed. Seems like I’m propped fine since I’m in that upper range, but wanted to see what your thoughts were


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[shawnee83]

You know that you have trimmed to high when you hear your prop cavitate. Then just drop it down a bar or so until it stops. This will give you an idea of where your max trim is for your boat at any given rom/load/sea state. With the load you have (full fuel, bait tank and crew, 5800 and 49 mph is very reasonable and good. As long as you can get to 5700 running heavy and 5900 to 6K rpm on a lighter load, then your prop is fine. That doesn’t mean that you can’t play around with different prop set ups depending on your desired performance characteristics. As a rule of thumb, as you apply power you trim up. As you increase power the prop/engine/thrust is driving your bow down and you need to trim up to get the bow up and riding high and this will increase speed. Trim on your boat is something you get a feel for over time. When cruising you can trim up in small increments and watch your speed increase and the steering will unload some usually also. When the speed stops increasing and before you cavitate the prop is usually your most efficient trim and max for that givin rpm. When running into a head sea chop you may find the ride better by keeping the engine trim all the way down, as you want the bow down cutting the waves and not getting under the boat causing the pounding issue. If your engine is mounted all the way down, you may want to consider raising it up to within 1 or 2 holes from its highest setting. Most guys with 2320’s that have done this have reported good results with performance, efficiency and max RPM’s. Every new Boat needs to be dialed in some on the set up if you want to get the most out of it. Actually, the one and only thing on my boat that doesn’t work and hasn’t worked since I purchased it is my trim gauge. One of these days I’ll get around to fixing it the sensor at the engine. Honestly though, I’ve always set my trim as described above and by feel so to speak so I’ve not been overly concerned with fixing it. Hope this helps.

 

[A-K]

Bmoore.

Same boat same motor. I have hit 6100 RPM but had to trim up until I heard the cavitation, then trim down just a tad. My best speed per GPS has been 49 MPH. About 300 hours on the motor.

When I hit the 6100 RPM this spring I had 4 guys on board. 2 of them are very large I'm guessing 260-280 pounds. Myself and the other dude 220-225. Near full tank of gas (120 or little more). Had 87 octane in the tank.

I'm not a prop guy, but if you compare compare our numbers we're very close.

Hopefully that helps a little.

 

[Bmoore]

Thanks guys. Great info AK !! That’s super helpful. That 17 pitch prop seems good a good fit. Just trying to get a handle on my oil level rising. I ended up calling Yamaha in Georgia and they said try running it for an hour straight at 5500 rpms and see if that helps seat the rings. I’m really loving this boat and the f300 on it. Just ready to resolve the oil rising on dipstick issue.


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[Bmoore]

Went out this morning, but it was pretty rough water so couldn’t run her hard like I was hoping. Checked the dipstick and went up about anouther 1/16” from last week. Seems to go up that much each time I take it out. I’ll call dealer again tomorrow. Super frustrating. Boat has about 50 hours now. The photos below were after dealer changed oil for me at 35 hours and said to let him know if it went over top dot. I’ve been taking photos to track how quick it rises.

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[grouperjim]

In case I missed it......the dipstick is tightly sealed in the the dipstick tube. You'll get a false reading (high) if you don't pull it out and wipe it then reinsert for a more accurate reading.

As long as it is near the top hole on the stick you're ok.

If I read that correctly.........i wouldn't recommend running it at 5500 for the length of time they specified.

"Making oil" is a symptom you can get if your oil isn't get hot enough to evap condensation that may have been introduced. Your gauge pic shows your engine up too temp so I an guess you're not "making oil."

 

[warthog5]

"Making oil" is a symptom you can get if your oil isn't get hot enough to evap condensation that may have been introduced.

While this is true... A lot of time it is fuel that gets into the oil that causes it to have the oil level rise.

Pull the dipstick and smell it. Does it smell a little like gas?

It's fairly common. The gas will dilute the oil.

 

[Brent]

Has the oil been changed recently? I pump out oil, swap out filter and add 5,5 q oil
, run then check level and add oil if needed. As others stated wipe clean dipstick and fully sit then pull n check

B2

 

[Bmoore]

Thanks guys. Yes, it’s fuel dilution in the oil. Dealer said it shouldn’t be happening and taking it in for him to look at and discuss with Yamaha. He changed the oil at 20 hrs, then changed again at 35 hrs when the oil level went too high. I’m now back over full at 50 hrs. I’ve been trying to run it hard to see if it helps, but no luck yet. Hoping it gets taken care of. Read a lot online about “making oil” etc...and owners not breaking in properly, but I’m not so sure “user error” is the case. I have pretty long runs to go offshore so engine gets ran pretty good “ weather permitting”. I’m trying to stay away from reading too much stuff online...I just hope they can make it right and I don’t have to continue doing such frequent oil and filter changes etc... kind of bonked the honeymoon period, but dealers been great and hands down the most reputable in Southern California. Thanks again for all the feedback.


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[shawnee83]

I think you should demand that Yamaha either fix it without question immediately or they need to replace the motor with a new one. Unfortunately, you are going to need to play hardball. That’s what I would do. JMO.

 

[A-K]

1) Bmoore hope you get this worked out with the dealer.


2) So when your "making oil" is there an obvious fuel smell to the oil? I cannot recall any oil changes on my 2016 Yamaha 300 where I've changed the oil and smelled a distinct fuel smell.

I have done all the maintenance myself with the exception of the 300 hour mark where a local Yamaha shop did it. The dealer said there were no issues with my outboard.

Just looking for a sanity check here, because I've never paid that much attention to level of the oil, just would check to ensure it was there and not low or blatantly too high. But have enever really seen the level move that much…if any.

Oh good now I have something else to obsess over

Also, I did run my motor WOT for short periods of time.

 

[Bmoore]

1) Bmoore hope you get this worked out with the dealer.


2) So when your "making oil" is there an obvious fuel smell to the oil? I cannot recall any oil changes on my 2016 Yamaha 300 where I've changed the oil and smelled a distinct fuel smell.

I have done all the maintenance myself with the exception of the 300 hour mark where a local Yamaha shop did it. The dealer said there were no issues with my outboard.

Just looking for a sanity check here, because I've never paid that much attention to level of the oil, just would check to ensure it was there and not low or blatantly too high. But have enever really seen the level move that much…if any.

Oh good now I have something else to obsess over [emoji20]

Also, I did run my motor WOT for short periods of time.

Thanks AK. Yes... the fuel smell is pretty obvious, but Im no mechanic. I’m sure your good AK !!! Seriously you’ve got enough hours with no issues... your good !! You’d know when you went to check your oil and it was way over top dot.


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