1994 Parker 2320 extended cabin open back project

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mheltunen":1ztca1cy said:
Brent":1ztca1cy said:
Did someone install in hull transducer?

Not in that location. It was a weep hole to drain that compartment under the seat. I doubt it was factory , rather a modification by a previous owner.


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I made the hole larger with a hole saw to inspect it. I was always able to see water pooling in the hole so I knew there was an issue. Basically the weep hole drained to a sealed compartment and trapped the water. The good thing is there is not much water in there so it should dry out and stay dry once I install the hatch.


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Rookie mistake. I assumed the balsa was 1/2”...it appears it is 7/16 so my plywood sits a tad high . I’m now learning how to fair epoxy with micro balloons. Always measure first . -with a tape measure and not eye.
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In hind-site I wish I would have removed all the balsa and went with all new plywood but I’m sorta committed now.


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mheltunen":2fs761c7 said:
My homemade fuel transfer pump. A 12v self priming pump that I ran the intake side thru the bilge drain hole to the pickup tube on the tank. It worked great. 42 gallons of fuel drained. The inside of the tank looks good as well. Clean with very little sediment.

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Nice


Where did you buy the pump?
 
I found the pump locally at an auto parts store (Auto Value). $60 which included fuel line.


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Almost ready to sand the top in preparation for glass.

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shawnee83":816cegi4 said:
Looks great. What's the white product on the new plywood. West Systems? That's a big project. Hats off to you for taking it on.

Thank you. Without this forum I never would have tackled a project of this size but now I’m happy I did .In a way fiberglass work is like welding , the worse thing that happens is you grind it off and start over. The white product is epoxy with a little Cabosil and a fair amount of micro balloons.Basically a fairing mix to blend in the height differences . I switched to a different brand of epoxy from West System. I’m blanking and cannot remember the name now. West System makes an excellent product but it’s expensive as well.
 
mheltunen":37kpd9tt said:
shawnee83":37kpd9tt said:
Looks great. What's the white product on the new plywood. West Systems? That's a big project. Hats off to you for taking it on.

Thank you. Without this forum I never would have tackled a project of this size but now I’m happy I did .In a way fiberglass work is like welding , the worse thing that happens is you grind it off and start over. The white product is epoxy with a little Cabosil and a fair amount of micro balloons.Basically a fairing mix to blend in the height differences . I switched to a different brand of epoxy from West System. I’m blanking and cannot remember the name now. West System makes an excellent product but it’s expensive as well.
Take or US Composites?

B2
 
Brent":uhb5u2cw said:
mheltunen":uhb5u2cw said:
shawnee83":uhb5u2cw said:
Looks great. What's the white product on the new plywood. West Systems? That's a big project. Hats off to you for taking it on.

Thank you. Without this forum I never would have tackled a project of this size but now I’m happy I did .In a way fiberglass work is like welding , the worse thing that happens is you grind it off and start over. The white product is epoxy with a little Cabosil and a fair amount of micro balloons.Basically a fairing mix to blend in the height differences . I switched to a different brand of epoxy from West System. I’m blanking and cannot remember the name now. West System makes an excellent product but it’s expensive as well.
Take or US Composites?

B2
Meant Raka

B2
 
Brent":2f34qcr6 said:
Brent":2f34qcr6 said:
mheltunen":2f34qcr6 said:
shawnee83 said:
Looks great. What's the white product on the new plywood. West Systems? That's a big project. Hats off to you for taking it on.

Thank you. Without this forum I never would have tackled a project of this size but now I’m happy I did .In a way fiberglass work is like welding , the worse thing that happens is you grind it off and start over. The white product is epoxy with a little Cabosil and a fair amount of micro balloons.Basically a fairing mix to blend in the height differences . I switched to a different brand of epoxy from West System. I’m blanking and cannot remember the name now. West System makes an excellent product but it’s expensive as well.
Take or US Composites?

B2
Meant Raka

B2

http://boatbuildercentral.com/
Their marine epoxy system

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Antenna and grab rail holes cored with thickened epoxy.
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Looking good. That Permatrim will really make a difference. I think I seee black 4200 on that Permatrim mounting? That's good. If you didn't use any sealant, you need to.
 
shawnee83":2ar7l34c said:
Looking good. That Permatrim will really make a difference. I think I seee black 4200 on that Permatrim mounting? That's good. If you didn't use any sealant, you need to.

I used (white) 3m 4000 for the permatrim install. Considering I’ve never piloted the vessel yet I’m sort of disappointed I won’t get a before and after impression. But considering how many recommendations I saw for them on these vessels I decided to install one.


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Good deal on the sealant. You need that to isolate the stainless mounting hardware from the bare aluminum. Anyway, I did the before and after. I know you would have liked to experience it
For yourself but trust me, it’s a good thing and it will do no harm. With my bigger tabs and the Permatrim I can plane out down in the 15/16 MPH range and bury the bow also. When I have to punch into that steep short head sea stuff it’s great. Able to make decent speed without have to plow at 7/8 mph to keep from pounding.
 
shawnee83":arsjjjb5 said:
Good deal on the sealant. You need that to isolate the stainless mounting hardware from the bare aluminum. Anyway, I did the before and after. I know you would have liked to experience it
For yourself but trust me, it’s a good thing and it will do no harm. With my bigger tabs and the Permatrim I can plane out down in the 15/16 MPH range and bury the bow also. When I have to punch into that steep short head sea stuff it’s great. Able to make decent speed without have to plow at 7/8 mph to keep from pounding.

Only odd thing I discovered during the install was the permatrim they sent me was a bottom mount model. The “rudder” (not sure of the proper term) that mounts under the cavitation plate would not fit when the permatrim was installed. The fin on the back made contact with the installed plate. My solution was to machine 5/16 off of the fin to clear the plate. Not sure if this is the correct way to deal with this bit seems like it will work.


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Sounds reasonable to me but not ideal. I like stuff to fit properly out of the box but I guess they make these Permatrims to fit multiple motors so?? You got to have that trim zink(also forget what you call them?). That’s what compensates for torque thrust from the prop and keeps the boat tracking straight.
 
shawnee83":3s3bf8tn said:
Sounds reasonable to me but not ideal. I like stuff to fit properly out of the box but I guess they make these Permatrims to fit multiple motors so?? You got to have that trim zink(also forget what you call them?). That’s what compensates for torque thrust from the prop and keeps the boat tracking straight.

Agreed, considering all motors have the trim zincs one would think they would have that addressed with the install. Having access to a milling machine made the modification fairly quick and easy.


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