1994 Parker 2320 extended cabin open back project

[shawnee83]

Both of your assumptions on raising the motor are correct. It’s fairly straight forward. Make sure that you use/rep,ace any sealant on the bolts when you remount them. On the 2120 my lower bolts go through into my bilge.

 

[mheltunen]

Both of your assumptions on raising the motor are correct. It’s fairly straight forward. Make sure that you use/rep,ace any sealant on the bolts when you remount them. On the 2120 my lower bolts go through into my bilge.

With a bracket style vessel (like mine) what is the intended purpose of sealant? The only theory I have would be to create a barrier for dis similar metals? Or perhaps to prevent slight creeping of the motor on its mounting surface.


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[Brent]

Both of your assumptions on raising the motor are correct. It’s fairly straight forward. Make sure that you use/rep,ace any sealant on the bolts when you remount them. On the 2120 my lower bolts go through into my bilge.

With a bracket style vessel (like mine) what is the intended purpose of sealant? The only theory I have would be to create a barrier for dis similar metals? Or perhaps to prevent slight creeping of the motor on its mounting surface.


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Might consider replacing the flat pie plate on bracket. It will leak. Warthog used a waterproof one from Armstrong

B2

 

[shawnee83]

Both of your assumptions on raising the motor are correct. It’s fairly straight forward. Make sure that you use/rep,ace any sealant on the bolts when you remount them. On the 2120 my lower bolts go through into my bilge.

With a bracket style vessel (like mine) what is the intended purpose of sealant? The only theory I have would be to create a barrier for dis similar metals? Or perhaps to prevent slight creeping of the motor on its mounting surface.


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I specifically mentioned any sealant on the bolts (currently) as I don’t have a bracketed motor and I’m not exactly sure if either the upper or lower go through to an area in that sealed tub on the bracket? It looks like the lower ones do? If so, you need to make sure you properly seal them so they don’t leak into that tub. That’s the only reason that I mentioned it.

 

[mheltunen]

Both of your assumptions on raising the motor are correct. It’s fairly straight forward. Make sure that you use/rep,ace any sealant on the bolts when you remount them. On the 2120 my lower bolts go through into my bilge.

With a bracket style vessel (like mine) what is the intended purpose of sealant? The only theory I have would be to create a barrier for dis similar metals? Or perhaps to prevent slight creeping of the motor on its mounting surface.


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I specifically mentioned any sealant on the bolts (currently) as I don’t have a bracketed motor and I’m not exactly sure if either the upper or lower go through to an area in that sealed tub on the bracket? It looks like the lower ones do? If so, you need to make sure you properly seal them so they don’t leak into that tub. That’s the only reason that I mentioned it.

Good point! Up till now I’ve made the assumption that that mounting area for the bolts was solid with no means of water intrusion into the bracket. I’ll take a look when I tackle that step. I have both 5200 and 4000 3/m on hand so that’s not an issue. Thanks


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[Brent]

The top bolts are not in the tub. I assume the bottom ones are inside. Easy to check just pull the pie plate and same time inspect the tub chamber. Stainless marine sells drain plugs and anodes and located on the tub bottom.

B2

 

[Ludicrous40]

Maybe I missed this if someone already chimed in.

The "lifting" task of raising the motor is crazy simple if you're on a trailer. Simply chock wheels. Lower trailer jack as low as possible. Ensure motor is straight up and down. Block under the skeg with a stable platform (I used 6x6 timbers). Remove the top bolts, and loosen the bottom bolts. Slowly raise the trailer jack so that the skeg is firmly positioned on the timbers. Continue to raise the trailer jack, and you will have complete control of the motor slowing lifting up against the bracket or stern.

 

[mheltunen]

Maybe I missed this if someone already chimed in.

The "lifting" task of raising the motor is crazy simple if you're on a trailer. Simply chock wheels. Lower trailer jack as low as possible. Ensure motor is straight up and down. Block under the skeg with a stable platform (I used 6x6 timbers). Remove the top bolts, and loosen the bottom bolts. Slowly raise the trailer jack so that the skeg is firmly positioned on the timbers. Continue to raise the trailer jack, and you will have complete control of the motor slowing lifting up against the bracket or stern.

That is a very good suggestion. Simple and controlled. Thanks


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[mheltunen]

Update: I applied the gelcoat (by rolling) with non skid mixed in. The next morning a few areas were still lightly tacky (24 hours later). Although the gelcoat I applied had wax mixed in I decided to spray some pva over the tacky areas and covered with some stretch wrap to help seal it off. Now two days later some areas are still tacky (but improved from the first 24 hours) and kneeling on it has even left marks. I realize I will need to apply another top coat but not sure what to do with the existing application. Will a full removal and sanding be required or can I lightly sand and wipe with acetone before top coating? Any help is appreciated .


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[Brent]

Update: I applied the gelcoat (by rolling) with non skid mixed in. The next morning a few areas were still lightly tacky (24 hours later). Although the gelcoat I applied had wax mixed in I decided to spray some pva over the tacky areas and covered with some stretch wrap to help seal it off. Now two days later some areas are still tacky (but improved from the first 24 hours) and kneeling on it has even left marks. I realize I will need to apply another top coat but not sure what to do with the existing application. Will a full removal and sanding be required or can I lightly sand and wipe with acetone before top coating? Any help is appreciated .


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It should set up or cure 24 hrs. How thick is It? Are you using styrene or? Ratio.? Mix well? Wait another day n re check.

B2

 

[mheltunen]

https://www.bottompaintstore.com/fiberg ... awk-Paints

This is the gelcoat I used . To my knowledge I followed their directions correctly. It’s kind of odd only random small areas are tacky, and only slightly so. 95% of the roof you cannot get a fingernail to make an imprint


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[Brent]

https://www.bottompaintstore.com/fiberglass-and-gel-coat-repair-gelcoat-c-13581_13586.html/Matterhorn-White-Gelcoat-Sea-Hawk-Paints

This is the gelcoat I used . To my knowledge I followed their directions correctly. It’s kind of odd only random small areas are tacky, and only slightly so. 95% of the roof you cannot get a fingernail to make an imprint


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What was the temperature?

B2

 

[shawnee83]

In my limited experience with gel coat the curing problem is likely due to not enough MEKP or not mixed enough combined with the ambient temperature was at the time you applied it? My crazy option 1, take a hair dryer to some of the spots that are not curing and see what happens. 2, take it outside and let it sit in the sun if you are lucky enough to have a nice sunny day that’s in the 60’s or better that may make it kick the rest of the way? You need to get some heat on it though.

 

[mheltunen]

The temp it was applied was about 62-66 deg with very low humidity at the time it was applied. Overnight the temps dropped to 55deg . I have tried lightly going over the top it with a heat gun and it may have helped in some areas. Outside is not an option at this point. Temps have been in the mid 20’s and 30’s and some snow still (hopefully not much longer). I have some more Parker color match gelcoat to apply on various touchups and they only sent enough hardener for 70 deg+. I will need to pick up some more and perhaps it may be best if I waited until we get some sunny mild days to bring the building temps up a bit before tackling that part. I suspect I did not have enough hardener for the temps that it was applied in. Unsure how to proceed if the tacky spots remain as they are . True to most boat projects it’s nothing that more money and time can’t fix.


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[shawnee83]

Get that heat gun on it and even a space heater if you can. I think you will get it all to cure if you can get it to 70 or better for long enough.

 

[mheltunen]

I ran the heat gun for an hour on a couple areas and it did seem to help. I’m not totally pleased with both the color and I do have a couple thin spots. At this point I will do another coat. My question is now if I do have some small areas that do not cure will another coat of gelcoat allow the base layer to cure once sealed off? Or will this only compromise my next layer?


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[kidfreediver]

Should be fine and another will be better anyways for the thickness of the grit and gelcoat. Is your color off? Gelcoat when wet and dry is the same color. Mix some up and put it on the boat like where your bow is and Stand back and make sure it's exactly that color
Then just wipe it off. You can do this without adding catalyst.

 

[mheltunen]

Should be fine and another will be better anyways for the thickness of the grit and gelcoat. Is your color off? Gelcoat when wet and dry is the same color. Mix some up and put it on the boat like where your bow is and Stand back and make sure it's exactly that color
Then just wipe it off. You can do this without adding catalyst.

Thanks , good tip. Right from the start I knew the gelcoat I chose for the roof would not be a color match. It looked good in the can but now that it’s applied it’s too grey for my taste. Looking back over the instructions I see now I did not use enough MEKP for the temps I was applying it in (simple rookie mistake). Some of my non skid did clump a bit in some areas so I’m going to lightly sand some areas and plan on applying the next coat over the top with no more non skid mixed in (just gel). Is it possible to have a paint store like Sherwin Williams tint the gel to match or do you need to buy the brand specific tints the manufacturer recommended? I sure appreciate all the feedback from everyone. I kinda hit the panic button but now I’m relieved knowing that it’s salvageable.


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[kidfreediver]

I usually go down to tap plastic and buy the neutral white gel coat and the pigment color to match boats gelcoat color mixing in a little bit at a time tell I get the color matched

 

[mheltunen]

I usually go down to tap plastic and buy the neutral white gel coat and the pigment color to match boats gelcoat color mixing in a little bit at a time tell I get the color matched

I’ve never tinted before. With all the tint colors available it seems a bit intimidating for a rookie. My luck I’d end up with a pink roof


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