1994 Parker 2320 extended cabin open back project

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Brent":i2wikgpp said:
Thanks

Any signs of moisture on the transom side?

No signs of the thru hull fitting leaking. In fact the only leaks were where the hose clamped to the fittings. Kinda scary but only about 3/4” of hose and a single clamp was on the fittings. When the parts come in I need to clean out the hole thru the transom and re bed the new fittings in place with 3M 4000. Im debating using 5200 because it’s below waterline ,but have concerns about servicing it in the future.


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If the thru-hull fitting was bronze or stainless, 5200 would be ok... but since it is plastic, I would not go that route.
 
Megabyte":aov62hy7 said:
If the thru-hull fitting was bronze or stainless, 5200 would be ok... but since it is plastic, I would not go that route.

Thanks. I think I’m going to stay with my original plan using the 4000.


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New parts for the deck drains/thru hull.
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Megabyte":2xmr0cfo said:
New parts are always good !

Especially when they are installed. I did put them in last night. I bedded the thru hull with 3M 4000 and double clamped the hose connections. New battery trays/clamps ordered as well. My UPS driver asked if I was building the boat from scratch considering how many boxes he has delivered this year.


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shawnee83":1t1jxltk said:
Nice. You are really getting a lot done. Looking for a good report that it solved your leak problem. Good luck.

Thanks! I hope it solves it as well


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Brent":1nidhdyo said:
Was it difficult to inset fitting on the cockpit side?

That very question you ask Brent is what stalled me for a bit. I was not able to source the same fitting as I removed from the deck side. What I ended up doing was ordering (2) thru hull fittings and cutting the flange off leaving just the threaded portion. I then inserted it from the bilge and threaded another nut on the threaded portion. The two nuts sandwiched it in place. The cockpit side simply does not have enough room to insert a fitting in that way, it must come in from the bilge side.


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Brent":ly7dgcch said:
Thanks Did you use the fittings shown in earlier pic? I got lost on hose attachment

B2

Yes, the last set of pictures is how it is assembled (with shorter hose) with the flange cut off of one. A nut is used in place of the flange on the end.


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A bit of engine tuning and she will
Go into use soon.
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shawnee83":89z3rnik said:
She’s really looking good. Nice pics. Those new back drop curtains also look great. Somebody did nice work on them. Nice tight fit.

Thank you. I had a local guy make them for me. He does excellent work. The only thing I would do differently is to make the windows smaller. In hind site they come down a bit too low.


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mheltunen":ms7y68lh said:
Thank you. I had a local guy make them for me. He does excellent work. The only thing I would do differently is to make the windows smaller.
In hind site they come down a bit too low.


When I replaced mine the first time, I had the canvas shop make them a bit smaller, but the second time I eliminated them.
I never ran with the curtains down and by eliminating them I was able to get a tighter roll when they were up.
A side benefit was keeping sunlight and prying eyes out of the pilothouse. :wink:
 

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Agreed, it would be much easier to get a tighter roll with the eisenglass eliminated. Up north with our short season we have some cool/cold temps to deal with and frequently I run with the canvas snapped down. Initially I wanted the windows low so I’d have full view of the deck from the helm but in hind site during travel it’s not that necessary. While fishing the center door is rolled up anyway.


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