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Scott Cambra http://www.vectorled.com He does great work, but it's too pricey for me (I'm not saying it's not worth it). I cut my own and get a local sign shop to do the engraving before I install the gauges and switches and wire everything up.

IMO if you want to take the bottom back to clean gelcoat, sanding is the only way. I had the bottom of my old 25' Grady soda blasted and while it didn't chew up the gelcoat nearly as bad as I've seen on boats that were sand blasted, it would still have been a ton of work to get it smooth.

Pulling the motors isn't hard and you don't have to remove the bracket from the boat (unless the transom to bracket seal is leaking). I went though a similar thing with my old 25' Grady. While the bracket didn't have any galvanic corrosion, the Gil-coat had separated from the aluminum (but not...

Like Megabyte said...apples to oranges. The Seacraft is (if I'm not mistaken) 19'6", the Parker is a full 21' and the Mako is 25'7". I'm not sure about the weight differences. Each will have a distincive hull shape as well. The Seacraft with it's variable deadrise will give you a good blend...

Aluminum fittings are the best choice. The tank itself is aluminum and if Parker were to use another type of fitting such as bronze, brass, stainless, etc. the two dissimilar metals would cause things to corrode faster in the presence of moisture. The issue you saw sounds more like a lack of...

I thought the tape was a cheap substitute for Christmas lights!!! :lol:

Outboard (especially the DFI and 4-strokes) seem to be much more sensitive today's crappy fuel than I/Os or inboards. But if you keep up with you fuel system it shouldn't be an issue.

For comparison sake, I think the fill hoses on my old '93 Grady sprung leaks in the fall of 2007. I had the same situation. Gas in the bilge after filling up one day. Since it was the last trip of the season though, I took the winter to pull the tanks for inspection (I could do that easily...

Grady recommends that Almond GE Silicone II for use with their off-white boats. That being said, on my older, faded out GWs I've gone with white 3m 4000UV and been very happy with the way it looks.

One of those Fisher Canvas covers came with my old 25' GW Sailfish. I hated it. Sold it and bought some 2x4s and a blue tarp...

Looks good Kev. Nice job! On suggestion though. Run a bolt or machine screw through the bottom of those tubes so the rod gimbals have something to lock in to. If not, your rods will rotating when go around curves.

You know the back seat of that Jeep folds down, right? :)

Assuming the electronic lockout solenoid is working properly, a 5-pin harness on your tow vehicle will solve your problem. The additional wire gets connected to the reverse light circuit.

Let me begin by saying I'm only pretty sure about these answers... :D The float in the remote tank simply provides signal to the gauge so it display the proper level light, just like the float switch in your fuel tank. The float in the engine mounted tank is what activates both the alarm...

Here's a bunch of pics I took of the rigging from one of my 200s... Connections on back of digital tach. Back of single key switch. I don't remember what was on the end of the wire that goes out of the picture. Main 10-pin harness. The plug on the left is the engine end. Trim/oil...

1. Yes. 2. On my '00 200 OX66s, there was a separate tach/oil harness in addition to the main 10-pin harness. This is what provided the signal for the trim and oil lights on my digital tachs. Does the plug look like it would match up to this? If so, you have the older style wiring and...

No. 2 does sound like a Merc harness to me...unless it's the old '80s style Yamaha harness. I've never seen one of those though. From what I remember of my 200 OX66s and their harnesses, the engine-side plug is way different on the Yamaha harness than it is on the Merc harness.

Not a Parker, but similar size and weight. My old 1993 Grady Sailfish sitting on a 2006 (I think) High Tech Marine 10,200 lb. GVWR AL bunk tandem. 8,700 lb. capacity, torsion posi-lube axles, SS hardware, spare tire/rim/hub/spindle, front center bunks, Kodiak silver cad. disc brakes on both...

Thru-hull is very likely. That's an older boat and I can see the thru-hulls are plastic. If they are original, they are long overdue for replacement. Probably more the fault of a careless owner than anything else. I still feel for the guy though... :( Having owned 2 GWs in the past, the...

Those numbers look good to me. From what I have read, Yamaha hasn't actually published acceptable compression numbers like other manufacturers. That being said, I've owned 2 225s and 2 200s and they were all right in that 120 range. I haven't been keeping up with current prices of those...